Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I saw a Youtube video of the 1936 Chevy Assembly Line and noticed, in one part of the video, a worker adjusting the valves while the engine was running on the 1936 straight six. I couldn't exactly see what he was doing. I'm hearing that adjusting valves with the engine running is much better than adjusting them with the engine not running. I'm hearing that you do this by sound and not with a gauge.

Can someone shed some light on this and how exactly is it done?


Brandon Hughett
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When adjusting valves with engine running you still need to use a feeler gauge with solid lifters. Hydraulic lifters can be done without a feeler.

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Actually the best method is to use a vacuum gauge on a hot engine. Adjust each valve to maximum vacuum.


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Where is the vacuum gauge connected to with the engine running?


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Probably the wiper port.


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Wiper port or vacuum tank port or any other port on intake manifold. Carburetor base plate port is also okay as long as it is below the carburetor throttle plate.


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Is there any preference on which valves should be adjusted first...? i.e. Would I attend to all intake first, then exhaust...Or is it unimportant...?


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The order of adjustment is not important as long as the engine stays running.


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What shape is the vacuum curve on a single valve? Is it really sharp, so just, say an 1/8 turn either side of perfect is really obvious on the pressure gauge or is it flat and a slight adjustment is difficult to see on the gauge?

Brian

BTW, absolutely sure if I tried this I'd, drop something in the engine and tear it up.

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The Chevrolet mechanics always adjusted the valves with the engine running. I always do the intakes first as it gives more time for the exhausts to heat up. The shop manual mentions adjusting with a feeler gauge and the engine running. I would not trust the vacuum gauge method myself.


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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
The Chevrolet mechanics always adjusted the valves with the engine running. I always do the intakes first as it gives more time for the exhausts to heat up. The shop manual mentions adjusting with a feeler gauge and the engine running. I would not trust the vacuum gauge method myself.
iagree


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I know nothing! FWIW, I've adjusted the valves on 216s back in the 50s (always engine running & with a feeler's gage). Those who knew (taught me) told me to leave 'em a bit loose so they wouldn't be so apt to burn. They said, "If you can't hear 'em, you're gonna burn 'em".

It's been a looong time!

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With solid cam followers it is better to use feller guage and err on the loose, a little noise isnt doing any harm. With hydraulic followers I loosen until noisey tighten until no noise then 1/8 to 1/4 turn tighter.
I have not had a valve burn in 38 years as a mechanic.
Tony


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I just adjusted the valves on a 1948 Chevy Tow truck. I adjust the valves with the engine warmed up and running as slow as possible. 450 or 500 rpm is just about right. Any faster rpm and I just have problems locating the screwdriver. I use 3 feeler gages on both the intakes and exhausts. ( not the same ones ).

dtm


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