VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 '37 Chevy Sputtering

Hi Guys,
We went to two shows this weekend, and the way my coupe is running has me perplexed.
1) It's been starting great when cold.
2) It hesitates and sputters when letting off gas, and getting back on.
3) There was no power when going up mountain, which can be expected.
4) Power from 25-55 mph is great.
5) Hard starting is experienced when warmed up.
6) When hot, the only way it will start is to floor accelerator and turn over until it starts, like it's flooded.

This has been very perplexing, and any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Woody

'37 Chevy Sputtering multiple choice
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Some possible things to do-

Replace condenser.check all eletrical distributor wire connections while in that department.

Try a different coil.

Check to see if its flooded or not getting gas when hot.

If flooded gas will be dripping out around the throttle shafts at the base of the carb.

If not getting gas no gas will be seen (or heard) squirting into center of air horn - necessary to remove air cleaner and look with aid of flash light.

Would check and -or- replace ting in that order.

Let us know the results

Check for a vacuum leak, in addition to the suggested checks for proper fuel-air. It could be the vacuum line going to the Distributor, assuming you have a vacuum advance.

If it's running ok when cold and bad when hot check the exhaust manifold heat valve to see if it's stuck open. The valve directs heat onto the intake manifold when the engine is cold. Reach behind the exhaust maniold (when the engine is cold) and try to move the valve by pushing on the counterwieght.

Woodeemail,

Just to add my two-bits worth, even though Chev Nut is usually right about mechanical poroblems, I believe '35 Pickup man' has it right. I had the same problem on my 40 car until I at least got the exhaust manifold heat riser valve freed up enough after massive doses of "PB Blaster" and hammering, to at least freeze it in the "open" configuration. It now starts harder cold (not a problem down here in SC), but starts fine when it is hot. Yours might unstick easier than mine, that sat for 40 years without much attention.

DocB

I will agree with all of the above and it also may be a combination of two or more problems.

I hope Woodeemail lets us know what he finds.

The heat riser position will not affect starting when engine is cold-but will cause it to hesitate more when first driven during warm-up- and will be much worse in cold winter weather.

You guys are always right there with suggestions, when I get frustrated. Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner, but I was waiting for the weekend test run.

During the past week I've taken some of your suggestions, and checked everything else I could think of.
1)Plugs,point,dist.cap,rotor,and condenser all have 1100 miles on them. I found plugs to be carbon-coated, so I cleaned them, along with the slight deposits on rotor & dist.cap contacts. I didn't replace condensor yet, as Chev Nut suggested.
2)Every indication points to an over-rich air/fuel mixture. I have excessive fuel consumption, black smoking exhaust, and black coated tailpipe, besides the ignition conditions I mentioned.
3)I re-checked accelerator pump winter/summer setting and octane rating setting on vac advance. Advance appears to be operating properly. No vacuum leaks were evident.
4)It is definitely flooding. When hot, it percolates fuel, and shafts at base of carb are wet. Carb is also coated black on inside, though it was like new 1000 mile ago.
5)I also tinkered with carb adjustments, but did not check coil output.
6)I kinda forgot about checking exhaust manifold heat valve, but it had never been a problem in the past.

When driving to the show on Saturday, it definitely had more power, started faster when cold, and ran better in general. Unfortunately, the old hot start problem persists &,like I said, gas is evident on the outside of carb, and it is flooded . I have to floor accelerator and crank until it clears out.

We had a great time on Saturday. The show, held annually by the State Police to raise money for Camp Cadet, instead will donate all proceeds to the victims of the Campbelltown tornado disaster that happened in a nearby housing development on Wednesday. They considered cancelling the show, but weather was perfect, there was a large turnout, and in addition to the estimated $6000 profit, a collection & 50/50 drawing netted another $1000.

Thanks in advance for any additional suggestions to help get me the '37 running and starting the way it used to.

Woody

Check the needle and seat in your carburetor. If the needle is Viton tipped, throw it away. Also, remove the float and check it for liquid inside. If there is gasoline inside of your float, you probably found your flooding problem.