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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 188
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 188 |
does anyone have the tie rod end specs for 38. I need the size of stud and taper. trying to use later tie rod ends.
thanks
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6 |
I may be wrong but I don't think there is a taper involved. There is a trick though to removing the ball studs.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 188
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 188 |
OK, is there a taper or not in the left and right tierod arms on a 38?
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6 |
All the posts that I have seen talked about a straight bore. My 1951 drag link did not have tapered holes. What they did have was a slightly enlarged very shallow area on the back end of the hole. When the ball stud was swaged in, the metal filled in the area and without removing the metal, it wouldn't budge under a 20 ton press.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 350
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 350 |
Are you planning on using the original gear box, drag link and tie rod? Years ago I upgraged a 37, wouldn't do it today, with 60's saganaw box and cross tie rod by replacing the bracket on the backing plate with a a 50's part and using a tapered drill bit for newer style ends. Worked well but am more keep it original today. The originals work well if you set them up correctly and grease them well.
Randy
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 12
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 12 |
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