VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 ignition / starting question

hey guys-
i am not getting spark to the points any ideas? the thick armored cable that runs from the ing switch to the distributor is it supposed to have power when the ing switch is on? if so what would cause it not to have power? the cable looks as if it is part of the switch. if i buy a new switch does it come with the cable?

Have you also checked that there is no voltage at the points with a multimeter or a 6 volt test lamp. The points may be oxidised, and not making electrical contact. You may need to remove them and clean then with a points file.

thanks jack-
i have changed the points, condenser and the coil( they were from the early 90s) i will try to bypass the electrolock and see what happens.
thanks
Joe

The short answers to your questions are first, the switch and cable is a complete unit and is called an electrolock. Second, the power comes through a wire in the electrolock cable to the points. To test for the cause of your problem, take off the distributor cap, turn on the ignition and crank the starter until the points are open. You should now have power on the stud and the breaker arm. If you don't have power there, disconnect the switch from the dash and check the BATT connection on the electrolock. If there is power there, the trouble is in the electrolock and further testing is required. If there is no power on the BATT terminal, trace your wiring back to the starter to determine if you have a open somewhere. Start with these steps and let us know where the problem is and we can give you further guidance.

Also make sure that the ignition switch center pops out when the key is turned clockwise. It it does not pop out the points will be grounded. There should be 6 volts at the "BAT" terminal but also at the "COIL" terminal and "GAGE" terminal if the ignition switch is operating properly (popped out). When the ignition switch is pushed in there should be 6 V at the "BAT" only. The "GAGE" terminal will be open and the "COIL" terminal grounded.

Another thought. The breaker arm and the stud coming out of the electrolock must be insulated from the distributor wall. You may have lost this insulation when you changed the points. If there is no battery at the stud or breaker arm, use an ammeter to check if there is continuity(ground) between the stud/breaker arm and the distributor wall.

thanks guys
will try all of these in the morning and let you know. the ignition switch not popping out may be a good possiblity.
thanks
Joe

The bottom of the electrolock ,the stud that bolts to the points has a spring and a contact pin.It makes contact to a soldered connector on the end of the wire comming from the top of the switch.. If you dont have any luck try taking the bottom connection aprt.It might be corroded or you might have the stud too tight on the points causing an open connection . Also check to make sure the points arent grounding out against the side of the distributor . There are several insulating washers in this area.

I went through this today! No spark-ok this is what I did.
Replaced points and condenser adjusted gap 0.18
Rechecked point gap
Rechecked rotor cap- seemed to hit the condenser connector housing- filed down rotor cap - for better fit around condenser cover
Checked plug connections.
Removed carb
Removed gas from carb,fuel pump and lines
Cleaned carb with b12
Cleaned fuel pump
New gas used new fuel filter
Checked for spark at first cylinder against ground.
Had spark
Tried to start
Started right up.
One of the happiest sounds!!!!

That is great news. Always a happy event when the old engine roars to life.

You should have applied each treatment one at a time. Then test. Then you would know what "fix" fixed it.

I just hate it when something fixes itself then shows up again later.

JMM,,,

awesome, I am glad that you got it running. It was great to be able to stop by and check out your Canopy. Got to get mine together :) SLOW Work in Progress !!

so what is next ?? Any luck on your Fuel Tank Venture ??

ok i bypassed the electrolock and have power at the points. now i have power to the arm of the points. but it does not seem to be jumping the gap. the adjustment scew for the plate in the dist is mangled. how does it come out? dont want to make it worse. i can adjust the points with it but not sure it stays in place. i would also like to change the base plate. i ordered the book on rebuilding the electrolock, so i will give that a try.
any ideas while i wait?
thanks
Joe

Look closely at the rotor cap and make sure it's seated on the rim of the housing. Also bend the rotor up a little bit to get better tension on the cap. Make sure points are installed correctly with all insulators connecting to the condenser wire.

The breaker plate pivot adjustment screw does not come out since it is riveted in place on the breaker plate. The screw that holds the point plate in place does unscrew so that the point plate can be adjusted by the pivot adjustment screw.




What book on rebuilding the electrolock?

sorry-
the elctrolock repair manual, page 294 in the sept. filling station catalog. part # is DG-180.

The manual looks to be for '37-'39 electrolocks. Might have a little information that can be used for the earlier electrolocks. Don't expect it will be comprehensive enough to be of much help on your switch. There are a couple of articles in prior year G&D magazines that are helpful. VCCA members can access many past issues on the vcca.org website.

Ya, that repair manual is pretty much useless for the 1929-32 electrolocks since the 1937-39 electrolocks are completely different. The electrolocks featured in the manual are for the ignition coil and the 1929-32 electrolocks attach to the side of the distributor and the distributor points instead of to the top of the ignition coil. Also, the 1937-39 electrolocks are basically just an "off-on" switch whereas the 1929-32 electrolocks are activated by a "pop-out" lock cylinder with an internal plunger.

You may want get the universal ignition key and bypass the electro lock as a test. I think you just run a wire from the ignition to the condenser wire connection. There are other wires as well. Then you can exclude the electro lock or confirm non operation.

I got it running this morning. here is what i did-
removed the electrolock from the dis.
installed a small machine screw into hole where electrolock was
with insulating washer.head of screw inside the dist.
then installed an insulating washer on the out side of the dist and put a nut on it. then installed the condenser wire and a jumper to the negitive side of the coil and put a second nut on. and i was off and running.
now i need to figure out what is up with the electrolock. anybody know where i can get one? i thought the repair manual would give me an idea of how i might repair it.
thanks for all the heip on this
Joe

Glad to hearyou are up and running. If your electrolock has the key , and the lock cylinder is free , your electrock can be rebuilt. A few of the members here offer that service. There was also a few posts in this forum about repairing the electrock as well, will see if i can find them.

thanks Jack
it is working fine just no power to the dist. key turns ect. if someone here will rebuild it that would be great
thanks for the help
Joe

Not the 1937-39 electrolock manual because the 1929-32 electrolock is totally different than the 1937-39 electrolock.

You don't need another electrolock since yours is repairable.

Our very own "Junkyard Dog" is the expert on rebuilding these. He does great work...send him a PM or an email.

All the Best, Chip

Ahhh...

Making Note about Junkyard Dog and his expertise on Electroloks !! sure i will need mine taken care of ;-)