Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#264788 12/19/12 05:47 PM
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Joneses Offline OP
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If it's running I avoid and put off this difficult and messy job even when I know it should be done. Do you have a favorite way that works well? Do you do it hot or cold? Do you use feeler guages or just spin the lifter. How do you keep oil from blowing all over everything under the hood? What a mess!


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Randy,

Get the engine hot and throughly heated through the valve train. If you're running a low temperture thermostat or no thermostat place a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator until the heat gage reaches 180. After it reaches 180 slip some of the cardboard out so it will stay hot.

Just slow the engine down to as slow as it will go and still run. Well, thereabouts.

The feeler gauge should slip in and out with a slight drag.

Use a valve adjusting tool, if you have one. Make's it much easier. Or, use a short, stout, slotted screwdriver and a box-end wrench. 9/16 best I remember.

Then adjust them. Piece o' cake.

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I always use a feeler gauge and have done it both ways, running and also cold when building an engine then recheck hot.


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I agree. What a mess that would be. I'm sure GM didn't do it that way in the factory.

Last edited by wawuzit; 12/19/12 06:20 PM.
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If you turn the idle down it really doesn't make a mess. It does take a little practice to do it. The old timers I have talked to think nothing of adjusting the valves hot and running...that is how they all did it.

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You fellows keep talking about a mess while adjusting the valves with the engine running. Hey, this is a straight 6 engine. As the instructions have all noted you adjust the idle to the slowest while running. If you don't run the engine at extremely fast RPM you will not have a drop of oil on the floor. (Assuming you didn't have some before).

There will not be a mess unless YOU make one.


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Maybe we need to keep that old valve cover and modify it.

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All it takes is reading the instructions and a little practice. As Ray mentions, turn the idle down and get the job done.

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Joneses Offline OP
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Hydraulic lifters would be nice. Three hands would also help, one for each, the screwdriver, the wrench and one for the feeler guage. What kind of a tool would help?


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Those motors do not pump enough oil up to the rockers to make a mess,oil is not going to squirt out every pushrod like a newer motor and you can rev them up a bit and still no mess.


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Joneses Offline OP
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You guys are of course correct, and I appreciate the input. Time to just do it.


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Originally Posted by wawuzit



Maybe we need to keep that old valve cover and modify it.

That video has absolutely nothing in common with a Chevrolet 4 cylinder ohV or a Chevrolet Straight six up thru the 216 and 235 engines.

However, if you have a newer 230,250, or 292 engines with the rockers on a stud (same as a SBC or BBC V/8) you will need clips to prevent the oil from squirting up and over the engine.


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Originally Posted by Joneses
Do you do it hot or cold?!
I do it static and have done it hot and cold. I've set them cold then rechecked the lash when fully hot. Almost no difference.


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As stated ot or cold is almost the same. It is the "in between" where the clearence is much greater.


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Hey you guys, don't confuse wawuzit with facts.


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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I have an extra valve adjusting tool that I will sell for $40.00. If interested e-mail me and I will send pictures.

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Sent you a PM with a request. Thanks.


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