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I just bought a 36 Chevy that came with a Delco generator + voltage regulator that I have now put in the car. However, the original regulator had only two terminals (labels illegible), and the new one has three (GEN, BAT, F). Also, there are two wires coming out of the generator, one that appears to be a ground. Can someone tell me how the new generator/voltage regulator should be wired? Thanks!
Randy Nudo
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A regular 1936 had no regulator.Do you have a Master or Standard?On the Master pulling the light switch knob out 1/2 notch would increase the generator charge rate.A voltage regulator was available as an option-but thats very rare.Are you refering to the thing with two wires mounted on top of the generator??If so it is not a regulator but a "cut-out".It disconnects the generator from the battery when the engine is not running or running very slow.
A voltage regulator set up can be installed on you '36-but- the type of generator you are insatlling will make a big difference.Is it a 2 brush or 3 brush generator-do you have the gen. number?-The two generators use completely different regulators-both 3 terminals.
Gene Schneider
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I'm showing my ignorance on these great old cars. I believe you are right in assuming that the old generator has a cut-out. It is a small box about 1 x 2 inches. The model of the original Delco generator is 946C. The "new" generator is a Delco 935V. It has a black (approx.) 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch box mounted to it with terminals marked GEN BAT and F. Do you think they're compatible? I don't know how to tell if it is a 2 brush or 3 brush generator. Also, what is the difference between the Master and Standard, wheelbase?? It's the sedan if that helps. Thanks for your prompt reply.
Randy Nudo
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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The 1936 Standard has two dials on the dash-a speedometer and a matching dial with the gas-amp- &-oil gauge.Master has three-Speedo. in the center and a dial with two gauges in it on each side.Standard has a 109" w.B.-Master 113"--better trim and enclosed knee-action independent suspension on Master (except about 600 had a solid fron axle)
Gene Schneider
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It appears that I have a Master as there are three dials on the dash as you have described, and the wheelbase is 113". But I'm almost certain that the front axle is a straight axle and not knee action. I'll confirm this when I get my shop manual and can compare some pictures. It would be nice to know if I have a rare model. Thanks also to Junkyard Dog on the generator model numbers. I'll start searching for a 936-V.
Randy Nudo
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Follow-up: My guess is that someone mounted a new voltage regulator on top of the rebuilt 935-V. If it's just a matter of putting a cut-out on the 935-V, will it operate in my '36 Master model, despite being the wrong generator? If so, is there a simple bench test for the old cut-out? I'm persisting because I suspect that it won't be so easy to find the 946-C or parts for rebuilding.
Randy Nudo
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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That's good news. My question now is how to wire the rebuilt 935-V generator. It has an extra terminal post with wire coming out of the generator case. I assumed that the extra wire was the "field" wire for the voltage regulator. Could this generator have been modified?
Randy Nudo
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Forget the voltage regulator idea completely. Both the 935-V and the 936-V were wired to the light switch to increase the generator output when the lights were turned on. On both generators, one wire goes to the "GEN" terminal on the cutout and the other wire goes from the extra terminal post (which is connected to the generator fields) to the light switch. The "BATT" terminal on the cutout goes to the amp gauge. You might want to pick up a wiring diagram for your car, and it will show you clearly how the wires were connected.
The Mangy Old Mutt
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I have a shop manual ordered, but this helps a lot. Thanks.
Randy Nudo
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Why not change the 6 volt to 12 volt & be done with it? You can take your original generator to a shop & change it to 12 & still have the original look.
I'm a shadetree fixit man- I fixit were ever I am-a little bailing wire & a good pair pliers & I'm on the road again-Caus I'm a shade tree fixit man
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If you want to go to a 12 volt system why not go the full route, put on a 12 v one wire alternator, cost less than an overhaul on an old generator. and what in Louis Chevrolet's name is an oldschool Lowrider, anyway??? maybe a 46 chevy with a set of 4" lowering blocks, and half the coil springs cut off?? that is a new one on this old codger!
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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It is not necessary to change the generator or the starter to 12 volts when converting to 12 volts. The generator and starter will work fine the way they are. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
The Mangy Old Mutt
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The 6 volt generator will hold up to 12 volts????? Anyways I just had my gen. changed to 12 volts two days ago, & the cost was $82 bucks. But like you say, the 6 Volt starter I know will last for ever on 12 volts. The total cost to convert the car does get a little spendy before you are done. I added an electric fuel pump at the same time.
I'm a shadetree fixit man- I fixit were ever I am-a little bailing wire & a good pair pliers & I'm on the road again-Caus I'm a shade tree fixit man
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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So if you stay with the 6 volt generator, do you stay with 6 volt voltage regulater? Or change to 12?
I'm a shadetree fixit man- I fixit were ever I am-a little bailing wire & a good pair pliers & I'm on the road again-Caus I'm a shade tree fixit man
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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I'm a shadetree fixit man- I fixit were ever I am-a little bailing wire & a good pair pliers & I'm on the road again-Caus I'm a shade tree fixit man
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Eagle Point - Central Point - Medford, same place to a lot of people, LOL. I understand, antways you sound like a good nabor. Now I need to get more info on the useage of a 6 volt gen. on a 12 volt systum. Thanks...
I'm a shadetree fixit man- I fixit were ever I am-a little bailing wire & a good pair pliers & I'm on the road again-Caus I'm a shade tree fixit man
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