VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 cost of a 54 235 engine

I am serching for a 235 engine from a 54 chevy, I understand that to be the best upgrade for my 39, what should I expect to pay for one? Plus is it legitimate within VCCA guidlines to do this upgrade when you are restoring?

If you are going to put any year 235 engine in your '39 and then have the car judged, as it stands now, massive points will be deducted for the incorrect engine. :eek: :eek: :eek:

If the car is going to be a driver only, then a 235 replacement will not be a problem. :cool2:

Thanks Junkyeard dog, I am planinig on making a daily driver out of it. I have found a 235 engine that "was running' when taken out and am wondering what I should offer.

I have seen several running 235 engines sell for between $350 and $500 if that helps you.

One that "was running when taken out", isn't much of a condition report, When did it last run, can I see it run? ask. I would say in Texas Okla. the max for a complete 54 235, car or truck? manual? or auto? would be $250 to $300 and mighty risky at that.I do agree that a 53 Powerglide or any 54 Passanger car engine would be ok, However remember that the motor mounts on the 53 and 54 cars are side mounts, you will have to come up with a different mount, a truck engine would probably work there but remember the truck engine has solid lifters and the one for a car in 54 was all hydraulic lifters. Truck carbs were manual choke and cars were auto-choke

what is the basic difference between solid and hydraulic lifters is it an issue for a driver.

54 passenger car with manual transmission has solid lifters as do the 1/2 ton pickups and up.
The front engine plate can be drilled to set up the earlier passenger car motor mounts. or change the plate, they are all the same from 1937 through 1951 with the correct motor mount holes.

Hydraulic lifters are much quieter as long as you keep the oil clean. Solid lifters are slightly noiser due to the manual adjustments required occasionally. Either one is fine!

" QUESTION " If he is going to change & upgrade the motor, would it maybe be better to look for a 261 motor? They look & bolt up to the original parts & compartment & have more horse power? I was told that if you put a 235 head on a 261 block, that changes the compression & gives you a much stronger motor? Anybody got a theory on that??

New can of worms!! 261 have siamese cylindars and 235 head does not have cooling holes for 261 engine. 1954 - 261 engines don't grow on trees. Unless you have a medium duty truck or bus, the 235 will get you down the road.
. If you want to hop it up, Check out the Inliners at < http://www.inliners.org/ >. In that case, you might as well use a 302 GMC.
. Good Luck

Thanks guys, I think I'll stick with the 235. :

Hi LOU: What do you mean by siamese cylinders? As for the head, I was told by a chevy man from Inliner that back in the 50s & 60s, the 261 was used for racing. But a 235 head was used to change the compression? I don't know alot about the application, but I right now have a 1945, 261 short block in the shop getting rebuilt back to stock. I also have a 1962 235 head with the block. I am planning to put them togeather with Finton dual exsaust. I havn't desided on the intake & carburator yet? I am just wanting a good rinning motor " not hi performance " motor that firs & looks like it belongs in my 39 sedan. Due to an accident I can nolonger use a clutch, so I will also be putting an automatic behind the 261. Please don't be upset that I an changing the original chevy, but I must. I sold my 47 Aerosedan last fall because it was so stock & clean that I wouldn't change it to an automatic. But I am going crazy, not having an old Chevy so I desided to do what I must to have a car, Chevy of corse.

OOPS not 1945 but 1954, OOPS