VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Dash Lights

I discovered the dashlights on my '48 are not working, except for the high beam indicator. All the rest of the lights on the car work including the glove box light. When I turn the switch knob (dash light rheostat), there is kind of a slight grating feeling and the dash lights do not come on. I don't have a lot of time right now for research due to wife's illness so I am hoping someone here can shed some light (no pun intended) on this situation for me. Is the problem most likely the light switch or is there something else that is also common to just the dash lights? Thanks. Beamer

Sorry to hear of your wife's illness...That's never a good thing...Hope she's better soon...!

This is an oh-so-common problem with these old rheostat's, there should be some "grating"...I don't know how sensitive your fingers feel is...It's a pretty fine wire so the problem is it's usually broken at the end...Without replacing the whole switch, what's typically done is to "short" the rheostat so's the dash lights are on "full brightness" all the time...That's the way mine are...That's the way I bought the car...

If your thinking you just can't live thata way, they do sell some 2nd generation light switchs...guess they have an extra fuse added...Check with Chev's of the 40's or filling station...

One way or the other I think the switch is coming out...It is rather annoying to have to carry a flash-light...Hey, maybe that's why there's a flash-light accessory on the steering column...!

Hope your wife gets better soon.
When I done my rewire this summer, I tried to clean the rheostat. Now the dash lights are on, but dim. When I turn the knob the dash lights do not change. Think I will let it go, as I don't drive it at night. Probably could see the gages when it is dark.

Thanks for the info guys. I will pull the switch the first chance I get. If it is the rheostat, I can live with "full bright" also. Thanks for the tip on that. I probably never would have thought of shorting it directly.
I did get a box full of stuff from C of 40's and so far I have fixed my wipers. The transmission arms were missing the rubber grommets and there was no retainer spring. Someone on here said they had to shorten the spring in their new retainer and so did I, by quite a bit! I "tuned" the wiper motor per the instructions in the G $ D a while back and the wipers work fine now. Thought I could have the turn signals in by now but got waylaid by my wife getting worse. She has an appointment with a neurologist on Wednesday and I hope they can say what is wrong with her. Until then, it is pretty much sticking to the house to make sure she doesn't fall, etc. Sure is putting a crimp in my old car plans!! Beamer

Kind of off the dash light topic but I was wondering where I mignt find the link to referred to as G and D so that I can get more info on the C of the 40s wiper transmisions & linkage. I purchased them about 2 months ago and haven't had a chance to install them yet on my '46. Looking at your post suggests that not all the parts that I need will be included? Many thanks.

Ed,
I sent you a picture from the parts book. It should help.
Gene

Beamer - Hope the neurologist can sort out your wife's problems! Thoughts and prayers are with you both.

Just wanted to publicly thank Gene for the picture. It'll be a great help when I install the transmissions.

Dale, Thanks for your kind words.
Kevin47, Any idea what gauge wire was used to shunt across the rheostat? I guess I could experiment but if it has already been done, I would rather take advantage of that experience. Beamer

I'm not sure Beamer...Like I was saying the previous owner had done it thata-way...I can look under and maybe I can see with a flash-light...As I remember, I think it was Gene that tipped me off to what had obviously been done to it to have the dash-lights on like that...The wire is awfully light gauge...I would imagine you'd want something a bit more substantial...

Hello,

I realize this is an old post, but if anyone sees my comment and can give some guidance, I would really appreciate it. I have tye same issue with dash lights and dome light, and traced it back to the rheostat. The suggestion here was to short the circuit to have lights full on all the time. I am all for it. Could someone suggest from where to where the jumper needs to go?

Thank you,

This is something I have done many times over the years for dashlite problems, make sure your battery is fully charged, then in a dark area put the parking lites on then rotate the switch across the whole length of the reostat several times and see if the dash lites at least flicker or show some signs of lite, you may have to rotate the switch quite a few times to get rid of any corrosion that could be present on the contact and or reostat coil, if the lights show any sings of light in any position chances are that the switch is all right and that corrosion is present, most of the time just keep rotating the switch to wear the corrosion down, this might keep you from having to pull the switch.

What year is your car....1947 is different from a 1948.

Try DIZs method first. If that doesn't work then get a new switch.

Good luck,
Charlie

Niderman,

Here is an old post that will tell you what to do. You should get a manual to help with the steps for removing your light switch. I can help you with the steps if you will tell us what year car you have and are confused? Head light switch.

Welcome to our chat site. Welcome

Good luck, Mike