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Touring with the VCCA is fun, and it can be educational. While on the SFT a few weeks ago, I listened to 2 guys talking while under the hood of a '41. They were talking about installing new rubber bushings on the shift rod ends. My '41 has required double clutching to avoid grinding into 2nd and 3rd, so I took them up on their advice and ordered the bushings from Chevs of the 40's. When I put them in today I was amazed... no need to double clutch into 2nd and 3rd, and the vacuum shift seems to be working fine! I do have some questions... Shifting from 3rd up to 2nd still requires double clutching to avoid a grind. Could this also be linkage related? The package of bushings included 2 large and 2 small ones. I installed a large one on the top of the large shift rod and a small one on the top of the small shift rod. The bottom ends of the rods on my '41 go into a holes that are the same ID as the rod's OD, with no room for a bushing. So why are there 2 small and 2 large rubber bushings in the kit? Also, the smaller rod (1/4") is worn at the bottom, and does not fit snugly into the hole. Does someone have a source for another small shift rod with minimal wear at the bottom end? Another part of this repair process mentioned by the guys on the SFT was the installation of a piece of large airline tubing somewhere in the same vicinity. Any idea where this tubing would go? When checking out the action of the shift rods, I noticed that only the large one moves when shifting gears. What's up with that? I thought one rod would be for 1st and reverse and the other for 2nd and 3rd. Any information re: these questions would be appreciated. Sid
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6Wheel: I think your car is pretty similar to my 48, so I'll try to answer some of your questions. First the shift levers - the small lever on the transmission controls whether the tranny is going to go into 1st/ reverse or 2nd/3rd when the large lever moves. At the bottom of the steering column, The top lever controls the large lever on the trranny. The smaller lever underneath the large lever(at the bottom of the column)is keyed to the large one and travels back and forth underneath to move the small lever on the tranny. Setting up the linkage and vacuum shifter by the book might help your gear clash problem. I solved my car's gear clash by eliminating my worn -out vacuum shifter, and installing a conversion kit. I suspect the large air line they were talking about is the large vacuum line that does to the vacuum shifter mechanism. If you get under the car there's two large lines hooked to the vacuum shifter - one goes to the vacuum source on the intake manifold, the other goes to a filter housing mounted on the car's frame to serve as a "air inlet" port.
Regards: Oldengineer 1948 Fleetmaster Town Sedan
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hey 6Wheel.....I`ve got the same symptoms with my `40 Chevy as you have with the grind and slop etc. I got the same bushings and have the extra 2 leftover. I pulled the vacummn unit oiled and adjusted ...and attempted to adjust the linkage some...Still a long way from a nice shift. I still double shift .I tried a few different gear lubes in the tranny and found the pennsoil syncromesh gear oil( Autozone) did actually make the situation better . I`m replacing timing gears and sealing oil leaks now. Next summer I plan to pull tranny and go through and new clutch, but until then , hope to hear from more experts on this subject. With the Penns. Sycromesh oil I find if you shift slowly and with the car warmed up the shift will hardly grind, but the double clutching does work better. Martinomon
David Martin-Hendersonville NC, Pine Island Fl....... 1940 Chevy SDSS,
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How do you double-clutch with a vacuum assisted shift?
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As I indicated earlier, it's no longer necessary to double clutch with my '41 while going from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, but before yesterday I put in the clutch, shifted into neutral, let out the clutch and depress it again while shifting into the next gear. Now I shift slowly without double clutching and am able to shift without grinding into 2nd and 3rd. Should the vacuum actually take the lever into the next gear? If I'm able to pause at neutral does it mean the vacuum assist is not working? I still have to double clutch to avoid a grind going from 3rd to 2nd. When doing that I let out the clutch at neutral, rev up the engine, depress the clutch and shift into 2nd. Sid
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Sid, I would suggest that the syncronizer ring is probably worn and not as effective as new. Even non syncronized transmissions will not grind when upshifted slowly with hesitation in neutral between first and second and second to third. It is the natural decay in rpm that helps to coordinate the gear mesh.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Sid, you asked if the vacume shift should take it into gear. the answer is yes...almost. With your right index and middle fingers extended over the rim of the steering wheel, grab the blade of the shift lever between the two fingers and just "guide" the lever into the next gear, it will move by itself. Jay
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Hi Sid, I have a couple of questions? In the first picture is this the "small shaft rod" that you are looking for because yours is worn? The last two pictures show the small linkage rod that may go to a vacuum assisted transmission and the small lever on a transmission??? Is this the shift rod you need and not the lever in the first picture? In the second picture is this where you installed a new rubber bushing on the shift rod end? I have never seen rubber bushings on any of the linkages I have from 4 transmissions. I also don't understand their benefit. I thought the springs were doing all the work and working fine? I have a theory that proper linkage adjust eliminates a lot of the shifting problems even with a bad (worn) synchronizing gear. I think of my transmission as being over 70 year old and not a 21st century marvel. So yes it does grind sometimes when I shift into second gear even after double clutching. I have never had to double clutch from second to third gear. I used to do like Sid and just slow shift. I would hold the clutch in and count to ten then shift into second from first. I had a lot more grinding so finally learned to double clutch. I don't understand the concept of revving the engine with the clutch in? Please enlighten me? Is the object to have the crank going fast so the transmission gear lines up easier? I drive my car in a very unique city where I don't have to pull out in front of 40 mile and hour traffic or higher. So I drive like a little old man with not a care in the world and time to kill. I enjoy every minute I am behind the wheel. I will never put turn signals on my car. I like sticking my arm out the window to signal, and I don't mind slowing down the youngsters behind me!!! So I probably won't be rebuilding my transmission for some time. Good luck, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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Thanks for all the help guys. Chipper, you are probably right about a worn synchro requiring me to double clutch into 2nd from 3rd. I keep hoping that somehow linkage adjustment will help, cause I don't want to pull the transmission (and probably won't, cause there is always a more pressing project). Mike, the shift rod I need is the small one shown in your last 2 pictures. Yes, the area of the rod in the second picture is where I installed the bushing. Mine did not have a spring like the one pictured. I also installed a rubber bushing in the same area at the top of the smaller rod. Both bushings had to be trimmed lengthwise to fit. I may be all wrong, but as I understand it, revving the engine with the clutch out while passing through neutral is an attempt to match engine revolutions with transmission revolutions, thus making the gears slide together easier. Thanks, Sid
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Changing lube to higher viscosity may also help. It works with older transmissions without synchronizers.
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How thick can I go on the oil Chipper, I filled the transmission with 600 weight. Would it be okay to thicken it with STP? Sid
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One question I still have regarding this post from last month - "Another part of this repair process mentioned by the guys on the SFT was the installation of a piece of large airline tubing somewhere in the same vicinity. Any idea where this tubing would go?" Could the tubing have been instead of a rubber shift shaft bushing (Chevs of the 40's part 3654491). There is play in the bottom of my shift rod where it is clamped to the steering column, and it appears this is where this bushing would go. Am I correct? Sid
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Hi Sid, Have you noticed much of a change in using the 600 weight oil from the recommended 90-180 weight? Seems like that should have been a substantial change? I looked for 600 weight oil about 5 years ago and could not find a source in my area? Where did you find yours? I have made up my own thicker oil for use in my steering box, but have not tried it for my transmission. What I did was mix 90-180 weight oil with regular grease. It does take a lot of mixing to get the grease to break down, but you can control how runny you would like it. I assume you can do the same with adding other thick additives (STP, Marvel Mystery Oil), until you think you have improved your shifting problems. You are right that Chevs of the 40's does sell the bushing for your shift shaft. I need to order one someday. You can see someone put a screw in the area where the bushing is on my shift linkage to keep it snug. I can imagine how hard it would be for some to keep their cars running before we had the availability of parts from suppliers like The Filling Station and Chevs of the 40's? I have another set of this linkage if you are ready to give up on yours??? Have you followed the directions on the space that the spring is in? Page 213 of the 41 manual. Sid have you learned to post pictures with your posts? That might help when you are dealing with some of your problems! Good luck, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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Mike, I've used 600 weight in pre-war fords for 35 years. It worked well in their transmissions and rear ends, and it seems to do well in my '31 and '41 Chevrolets. It won't leak as much either. Chipper indicated that it was heavy enough for the '41, and he would not thicken it. I have bought some 600 from Mac's (ford parts supplier), but the last gallon I got from Jenkin Guerin lubrication Specialists, St Louis, MO phone - 314-652-2905. One of their reps spoke at our local car club meeting. Re: the bushing for the shaft, I saw some airline tubing of the correct size at Lowes yesterday for $1.50 per ft, and I think I will slip a piece of that in and try that. I'll also check out page 213. Yes, it would be a good idea for me to learn to post pictures. Thanks for the help. Sid
Last edited by 6wheel; 12/29/12 09:48 AM.
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Lovely...In the picture posted above...? I grabbed a hold the shaft coming out of the tube (with the "screw" in it) and I just found I'm able to wiggle it side-to-side about an 1/8 of an inch...! Is that normal...? Maybe I could get one of ya'll to try wiggling theirs...I don't have any shifting problems...Well, at least not yet...But, I thought this unusual or odd that it should have this much play ( back & forth )...Thanks, Kevin
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Kevin:
My grandson and I put a new bushing in the end of the shift lever today on my 48. I tried to wiggle the big shift lever to see if the bushing in the tube was shot, but, I didn't have any play. My car, however, has the other type of shift levers at the bottom of the tube. The slot in the upper lever is wider than yours, and, the bottom lever has a stamped steel arm that rides in the slot, instead, of the rod like yours has.
Regards: Oldengineer
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Thanks for checking...It seems it would make sense that there would be some sort of bushing there...I don't know...Perhaps in the '47 set-up ( mine looks like Mike's ) it's not needed...I suppose I'll take a look in the manual to see if there is anything in the details...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Kevin:
I've seen 48's besides mine that had the same shift levers as your 47 does. I guessing the factory may have used both types that year. Both types probably require the bushing in the tube.I've looked through the old service bulletins for 47 & 48, and, never run across any mention of a different set of levers like my car has.
Regards: Oldengineer
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i think this is what you are looking for From the 42-48 shop manual on page 7-14"If the bushing in the lower support is worn it should be press out of the lower support and a new one installed" I have had so many problems with my shifter over time I always think twice before making even small adjustments..When i last had it apart I did not change the bushing,seemed to be ok at that time...Good luck
Last edited by chef-chevy; 12/30/12 10:39 AM.
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My 48 also has a completely different set of levers than the ones posted by the picture. Mine does have the vacumn assist unit off the car and just straight levers instead, so don't know if that makes a difference or not.
As to the bushing for the shift rod, I bought one from CofT40's and it did not fit correctly. It was a sloppy fit and had to use tape on OD of bushing to get it to fit half way. Did find a NOS on e-bay and it was perfect. If one of the NOS can be found, that is definately the route to go. The NOS unit has the bushing encased in a metal casing that fits in housing properly.
The screw in Mike Bullers picture to hold that bushing in would not work on mine as that holds the U clamp from moving up or down and that is what denotes the 3/4" distance from shift lever to bottom of that U clamp.
Just some thoughts here.
Jim.
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i found that when I tried to install the vacuum shift By- Pass "which you have"the new rod is larger then the original.They sell the by- pass kit and new bushings as a set but sold separately..So if you elected to "not" buy the bushings also the kit does not work properly
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Thank you for looking that up for me, Bruce...! That looks exactly what it should look like...Probably can order one of those from FS or Cof40's...Get my order list back out...!
I never would have known I was even missing the bushing if (6wheel) Sid hadn't started this "thread"...Thank you too, Sid...!
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Yes,and I would have not known my bushing was also worn and loose until had wiggled yours,thanks Bud
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As to the bushing for the shift rod, I bought one from CofT40's and it did not fit correctly. It was a sloppy fit and had to use tape on OD of bushing to get it to fit half way. Did find a NOS on e-bay and it was perfect. If one of the NOS can be found, that is definitely the route to go. The NOS unit has the bushing encased in a metal casing that fits in housing properly. Said 123. I slide two of them from COT40's on the shaft and still have at least 1/16 play. But better than without. After thought: since you have a lathe. Turn one out of that high pressure plastic stuff??? You know that hard slippery plastic stuff????
Last edited by ruscar; 12/31/12 09:29 PM.
Russell #38868 '48 4 door Fleetline
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