VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 transmission answers ?

Started to pull the transmission. Was following the manual. Got to step 7. It says slip the ball and collar back on the propeller shaft. Step 8. Remove the 4 screws from the universal. Guess what. No universal in sight! WHAT???? Started "feeling" around in the 1 1/2" gap and found the whole u-joint assembly back in the ball. What!! Slid it forward so I could unbolt the u-joint. Looks like a very important part was left out?? What say y'all. See pic's.
I can see why the speedo did not work. The gear on the shaft was not pushed up where it should be.
I am concerned about all the filing (brass/copper colored) after only 6-8 miles of test driving.
I am right about "the" bolt, right???

Since the u-joint assembly was free to drift for and aft would account for the problem I was experiencing, yes?

This is where the bushing go?

Man-o-man Russ, just be glad that you caught that in time!!!

Just my opinion here, but if the splines on the tranny output shaft and splines on tranny half of u-joint look good without too much damage, I would put it back together and try it with the correct bolt in place. The filings you see indicate some movement where movement should not be. Perhaps a tranny drain and fresh tranny grease in tranny may ease your mind some.

There has been some great discussion and advice on how to when installing the new Oakie bushing. Should be able to pick it up in the search?? area. From what I know, you would need to lower the driveshaft assy more than shown now, I loosened the gland or packing nut some and remove the bell assy off the driveshaft housing. Than you can see the bushing around the propeller shaft plainly. There is a small dowel pin that would have to be removed at front of area of driveshaft housing and than the front bushing will have to be removed before installing the Oakie bushing. That dowel pin can be kinda hard to see, but more able to find by running hand around the propeller shaft housing. I believe that FS will rent a bushing puller if needed. After bushing removed, than the Oakie bushing is installed by driving it in. That bushing not only replaces the front bushing, but at same time the new rear seal on the new bushing pushes the old rear seal backward so that the new seal has new area to ride on. Been quite some discussion on either installing new dowel pin to hold all in place or using lock-tite.

Best to you Russ, hope I didn't confuse ya tooooo much.

Jim.

Rus-car I had a similar problem with mine,when taken apart found I only had 1 bolt left in the universal the other three were rung off rolling inside of collar every now and then they would get near the joint and get caught and make some horrible noise.but I had no vibration other than that.Anywho I wound up rebuilding the tranny anyway,put it back together and she's doing fine,Now I know what an Oakie bushing is.

Russel

The item you are pointing is not the oakie bushing.
The *oakie bushing* is between your prop shaft and the torque tube. (Well a couple of inches from the frond of your torque)
You sure miss the bolt.Use some medium strength lock-tight when you install a new one.
Also make sure when you install the 4 bolts of the universal joint bearings that you use and install properly the 2 lock plates.

Jianis

A couple of questions.
1. It looks like in the manual picture that their is a lock washer with the bolt. Right? I can just pick-up a bolt Grade 5 or 8 and lock washer at the parts store. Right? Nothing special????

2. I noticed that when I bent the tabs open on the universal bolts, none of the 4 were tight. Looked like they were maybe tighten then backed out a little. All 4 could have been left tight and bent over the other tab. Are they suppose to be a little loose????

Sorry about all the questions, but I figure, "Better to look stupid and ask, than, BE stupid and NOT ask", Russell

1. YES large lock washer before nut. Nothing special.

2. NO, DO NOT leave the u joint nuts/bolts loose. Tighten up good, and bend over tabs to lock nuts in place.

3. Oakie Bushing: Just clink on my (green) FLEET 47 on this post box to the left. select MY POSTS, and go to page 7 and read: "Re: replacing oakie bushing on 41 drive shaft" Post#176209 6/20/10

I have the tool to get the bushing out if you want to use it.

Russell

Sarge is right about tightening bolts.
Grade 8 will be fine.
Use a magnetic stand and a DTI to measure the movement of your shaft. Refer to the shop manual for the limits.It might be withing limits and save you some work.

Jianis

Russell, we've been through this oakie bushing thing before on Chat. Do a search and you might find it.
Here are a couple of instruction sheets for the oakie bushing for you to look at......



I've got some other info on this too, and as soon as I find it, I'll email it to you.

Here's a picture if the bushing puller......



I also have this tool if you want to borrow it.

Based on what y'all say, it looks like I have a "oakie". I now see where the copper/brass filing came from. You can see the ware on the front of the bushing from the universal assembly rubbing against it. With your best guess, do I need to try and replace it, or, it is OK. Their wasn't any rubber suppost bo be there???
Thanks guys for the help!

Russell, I believe the rubber seal is on the "back" end (toward the differential) of the oakie bushing, so it wouldn't have been affected by the rubbing you are describing. I would say the seal and oakie are ok. Check the rear for "overfill" which would indicate a bad oakie seal. To remove the oakie, you will need to remove the torque tube from the differential and pound it out from the back end.

I noticed when I had my trouble with my tranny,that when I was putting the bolts back in that they wouldn't tighten up all the way they seemed to sink into the bolt locks that I couldn't wrench on them anymore so I took them off and used high grade locks washers and they tightend up prettygood.seems like the inside of the bolts were tapered so that could have had something to do with it.

If someone already has put an Oakie in, the dowel pin will most likely be missing, or signs of drilling, and new dowel may be visable.

I found the hole where the dowel was. On the top of the tube. No signs of a new one.

Maybe it is an Oakie but I'd would hope not.
If the propeller shaft must be removed, there is virtually no advantage in using a new Oakie.

If it's not:
There are two stock bushings involved.
One is right there and the rear part of the yoke fits inside of that bushing.
The second one, further down the tube and with old oil seal, is left in place when an Oakie is installed.
A new yoke and the unused area on the propeller shaft between the two stock bushes is how the Oakie makes the 'repair'.

If it is an Oakie - depending on the wear, it would be best to install an NOS propeller shaft (or possibly have a machine shop repair this one) and a pair of NOS bushes.

Be careful to not overtighten the four bolts on the u-joint. The break quite easily or at least they aren't of any strength.

Morning, Russell...I'm thinking if this was my situation I'd finish cleaning off the filing's...Grease thing's up and put her back together...! I believe you found the problem with the missing bolt, etc. Good luck, Kevin

Hey Kevin, It's true, great minds do think alike! Exactly what I did this afternoon. I could not finish because I decided to change that boot on the vacuum canister while it's off. Ordered from Steele last night. It was a NOS unit and the boot is starting to crumble.

Well Russell, I think your right about that...! I think things will turn out Okay...I was just reading a post today about the effort involved with replacing that vacuum canister boot, they likened it to trying to "put socks on a rooster" lol Suggested using soapy water. Do you have that thick washer they use to check the adjustment on the linkage...? I recall you mentioned grinding of the gears...Great photo's BTW...

Yes, I read that post about the boot also. We will find out.
No, no gage washer. I understand COT40's sell them?

Yesterday I called Rusty at Northwest Transmission to let him know that I would not be sending the tranny and explained what I found. He said that bolting it all together like it was supposed to be might even eliminate the slight grind, as it put "tension" where it should be. Or something to that effect. Hope to find out by this weekend.

Why no link to that visor? I vaguely remember reading about such a few years back.

Sounds like maybe Rusty was "skirting" the idea he might have forgotten something important...We'll see

I don't have a gage washer myself, or I'd loan it to you...Reason being I have no vacuum assist...I should "whip" up a few for keychains/xmas, etc.

I should have linked the visor from Ebay before I bought it.
It'll be a real conversation piece! After I have it restored...