VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1925 Roadster

Hello to everyone on this site. Been reading a little bit and you sound like a fine group.

I have been looking for information on the internet and found this site. I tried to search but, probably due to my ignorance, was unable to find an answer to my questions.

Although I am the original owner of the car, interesting story, I am much younger than it is and really have little knowledge of it or it's systems. I have had my '25 for about 20 years and until last summer have had no issues. Since starting it up last spring I can not keep it running for very long. It starts fine but if I try to drive it I only get about a mile and it acts like it runs out of fuel. If I try to restart it, it will try to fire up, but still acts like it is not getting fuel. If I let it sit for awhile it will start up and run fine again for about a mile.

Of course I thought the carb was bad, so had a friend of mine, airplane mechanic, get new parts and rebuild it, no change in problem.

I would really love to be able to drive it around again and go cruising with my 90 year old father. If anyone has some suggestions I would be very thankful.

Randy

Hi, and welcome to the Chevy Chat II Forum. This is an excellent source of information for your vintage Chevrolet. Bring on your questions.

I agree that your problem is probably fuel related. Assuming you have corrected any problems with the carburetor, your next focus should be on the vacuum tank. The next time the engine quits, disconnect the line from the vacuum tank to the carburetor, and see if any fuel runs out. All lines, both vacuum lines and fuel lines, that connect to the tank must be tight fitting. Check the lines all the way to the fuel tank. Check the fuel tank cap to insure the vacuum hole is not plugged up.

For insurance, check the point gap, in all 4 positions.

Hi

had this problem before, check the fuel inlet to the vac tank to see if the gauze in the top is not all choked up with any dirt from the fuel tank

Thanks, even a reply all the way from Australia.

I assume the vacuum tank you speak of is the pretty little canister on the firewall. How exactly is it designed to work?

Randy

I suppose that PNW means the Pacific North West?

The basic principal of the vacuum tank is that the power from the engine in the form of vacuum is used to draw fuel from the fuel tank and deposit it in the vacuum tank. The tank has two compartments. The fuel from the tank is deposited in the top compartment. When the bottom tank is empty it is automatically filled by the top tank which will que the top tank to start the refill process. Fuel from the bottom tank moves to the carburetor by gravity and is controlled by the float and intake valve.

If all the fittings are kept tight, the vacuum tank does not cause very many problems. It is very reliable, as proven by me driving my 1925 Roadster to the top of Pikes Peak in a 100% stock configuration.

Yes, PNW, farming country south of Spokane.

I purchased my '25 new, blind auction, from a closed dealership in Eugene OR.

Pikes Peak in a '25...great...I have always wanted to enter the race up that little bump in the landscape

Thanks for the information.

Randy

Just going through old postings and seen that you were from the pnm, me too. I am in Garfield, south of spokane I have a 26, and had the vacumme tank rebuilt by the GEA in Wash. Runs great know. Roger

Hi Roger, we are almost next door neighbors. Love to go putting around the farm country with you someday. We could always take a run up Steptoe and pretend it is Pikes Peak

I took my vacuum tank out and apart, I did not find any "gauze", just a small metal screen under the fitting coming from the tank. There was a cork gasket under the screw that was quite deteriorated. The small container inside the tank did not appear to have any gasket sealing it within the vacuum tank.

"GEA in Wash"? Who or what is that? Maybe I could get my tank rebuilt also.

Randy

The cork gasket seals both the lid to outside can and also to inside can. Be sure to use cork as other sealing materials don't work as well. If a new gasket does not solve your problems get back to me by PM. I can help get your tank fixed.

Thanks for all the advice and offers of help. I got the vacuum tank all cleaned up and put back together with some new gaskets I cut out. Car started right up.

I think that problem is fixed but a couple new ones to deal with now. It may be due to sitting for so long but now it back-fires and has a fairly steady drip of oil. Should give me something to do this winter waiting for spring :-)

You jest, a 1925 Roadster that leaks oil?

You didn't say if it was at the front or rear of the engine.

Back fire is usually cased by a shortage of fuel, poor timing, bad valve, fuel mixture (too lean), or a spark plug line arcing.

Give us some more symptoms. Try to locate where the oil is originating.

The oil originates in the ground. Drill, pump, move, refine, package sell to owner who fills the crankcase. Oh guess you meant where the oil is leaking from the engine. Sorry I may have gotten of track.

Back to reality. Over oiling rockers, splash from head pockets, past rear main are most often the main leaks.

Back on, I have been working and did not get back to you to soon, sounds like you got it worked out. The GEA is a car club out of Oring Wash. 18021 150th Av 98360. They put out aabout a 12 to 15 page flyer every month. They not to big but helped me a lot. I give up where about are you located at. My 26 is all origial. I do know of a 26 barn stored, not very good, but a lot of parts for your year also. Give me a call or email. Roger. email rtpfaff@frontier.com 509 635 1236 Thanks