VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 head gasket sealer

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...head-gasket-sealant-blue-devil_7120032-p

I see at least 20 brands of head gasket sealer. It's sold in almost ever auto store.I thought this stuff was really just a fake product. Does anyone say it really works?

Steve,

Forget this stuff. While it may have its applications, I doubt it will help your the problem.

Pull the head if you want to get rid of the seep. Have the head planed. Use a straight edge to check the top of the block. Use a good file and make sure you get all the old material off it and that it is smooth and clean.

Get a new head gasket made by GM or at least one of high quality made by a major manufacturer that says "this side up," or words to that effect. I don't think you will need to coat it with anything, either.

Charlie

I only use it to keep the gasket from moving around when assembling the engine. Just a dab in each corner and let it set until dry. High temp silicone is what I use.

I'm sure that each person has their own different way of assembling motors.

After loosening the head studs/bolts I use a screwdriver or hammer handle or similar in the middle ports (not far enough to touch the valves) of the head and lift to "crack the gasket", then fully remove the bolts. Using the screwdriver and hammer as a wedge can damage the gasket faces.

When cleaning the head gasket face of the block I use 80 grit emery cloth with a 6x1 hard smooth flat backing.

If using a modern type gasket I dont use any sealer but for a metal faced gasket I use "holymar" spray type sealer.

Tony

Steve, While working on your head gasket I would have the head hot tanked and checked for cracks. It would be piece of mind to get all the crude out of the coolant passages (could be a cup worth of corrosive debris). Cracks are tested by Magnafluxing the head. To be on the safe side I would blow out the head with about 90 pounds of pressurized air from my air compressor after getting it back from the shop. I got quite a bit of crude out of mine after it was hot tanked. I just keep blowing each coolant opening out until no dust/engine scale comes out. I think I paid about 50-75 dollars and had the head back in a couple of days. Good luck, Mike

P.S. The shop could take the valves in and out for you and let you know the condition of the top end??? I am still waiting for my engine rebuild to be completed and thankfully had three heads for them to check before they found one that was good!!! I also had two blocks tested to find a good one. I would advise anyone going through a rebuild to stock pile extra parts!!!

Industrial "silver frost" paint makes a real good sealant.You just need to use the thick "sludge" at the bottom of the can,a thin coat on the block,drop the gasket on,give the head face of the gasket a thin coat,replace the head and torque down cold initially.Then get the engine hot,and re-torque to specs(if using a copper asbestos head gasket).

Is it the consensus that applying some kid of sealer head/gasket a good idea? That is when installing a new gasket on a head and block that are level.

I put mine on dry and haven't had any problem. Seems that a while back, I sprayed a solid copper one on a 69 V8 head gasket with some copper spray stuff. Instructions called for it.

What do you more knowledgeable folk have to say on this?

Charlie

Go with the copper spray stuff.

The new modern composite head gaskets are designed to use nothing. The old stamped type gaskets required sealer to get a good seal. I have used aluminum paint, copper gasket spray and even a Permatex gasket spray that was red(can't remember the name)with success. My personal preference is to use a Fel-Pro blue head gasket with nothing on it.

I'm with Don. We used a modern Fel-Pro head gasket (p/n HS 7276 B) on the 216 when we did the head & valves. We installed it dry with no copper coat on an original block with some pock marks. I've since put nearly 2000 miles on the car since then without incident. If its a newer style gasket, I wouldn't worry about the sealants unless your head or block deck is really not the greatest.