VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '31 Installing rear window glass

I had a new 1/4" safety glass cut for my '31 Coach's back window. I also bought 1/4" U shaped back window rubber from the FS. My questions are:
1. Do you suggest using something to adhere the rubber to the glass before installing as a unit?
2. What is suggested as a setting/sealing material between the rubber and the sheet metal window opening?
3. Rubber does not bend around lower glass corners without buckling on the sharp curve. Do you suggest cutting small wedges out of inside arc to eliminate buckling?

Regarding the buckling on the curves. The weatherstip on my 32 was also buckling on the curves. It was removed and shortened, then superglued back together and stretched to fit.

I, too, am at the point of installing the rear window. I have installed all the other windows on the car, (31 sedan). I have held off on installing the rear window because of the weatherstrip (70-18).

With a trial fit, the weatherstrip is the correct height on the inside with the trim strip installed, but on the outside edge, the "rollover" part of the weatherstrip leaves about 1/8" gap between the body and the weatherstrip.

I called Steve Kassias at the Filling Station the other day and he informed me that the weatherstrip is made by Steele and he has never had a complaint. He suggested that I send him a sample of what came off the car originally and I will do so as soon as I can find an original piece. He is most anxious to help, but needs a sample of what is needed.

Since the weatherstrip butts out against the body sheet metal and is held in place by the window molding on the inside, I see no need to use any adhesive or silicone. But, of course, I haved not completed installing my window.

Will advise as soon as any progress is made.

Was away for 3 days, just got back. I recall FS has 2 types of rubber, one a plain U shape, and one with a roll-over lip intended I assume to overlap the sheet metal. The stuff that came off my car was the plain type so that is what I ordered. The original molding was set in a thin "putty" like material that had hardened like cement against the steel body, at both the outer edge and along top and bottom (sides have about 3/16" clearance). I expect it was some form of special putty. As you know, water leaks were the ruin of much of the wood carcass in these cars so I am trying to ensure the back window does not leak at all. Also, the opening is just barely large enough to fit the window glass and rubber, so sticking the rubber to the window somehow seems the best way to get a uniform fit (centered), especially if a setting sealant is to be used. As for the buckling corners, I will plan to cut small wedges out of inner corners of rubber to resolve this.

Before cutting wedges perhaps it would be wise to check with a glass shop. I worked for a heavy truck dealer for many years and have sold many cab rear windows and weatherstrip and many were installed in our shop,but never heard of anyone cutting wedges out of the rubber. I think that would weaken the rubber and be an invitation for leakage.

When I spoke to the glass shop guy (30 years experience) he suggested either heating the rubber with a heat gun to see if it could be shaped to fit better, or cutting as I suggested above. I don't plan to install permanently for a few months so I will check out other possibilities. One which might work would be to use an adhesive to secure rubber to glass, but the group on here seems to favor not sticking the rubber to the glass. The original rubber was not sealed to the glass. Chevrolet likely used a molded piece pre-shaped for the window, while the FS material just comes in a roll.

I would find another glass shop guy,hopefully one that has experience with cars of your era. As I mentioned in an earlier post I had the same problem on my 32 sedan. I was having some interior work done by a former Hampton Coach installer and asked him about it and he said he had a glass installer who could take care of it. Upon picking up the car the rear window no longer had any pucker and when I asked how he did it the reply was " he cut it shorter and super glued it back together". A sealer applied after installation may be used to help keep out water but it will not bond the rubber to the glass.

Well I guess my glass guy was right!. I had a short scrap piece and bent it around the sharp curve and it buckled considerably. Taped it tight to the glass away from the curve with duct tape and heated the corner with my electric paint remover (a good hair dryer might work as well), being careful not to over heat. While hot, pushed rubber against glass to remove buckle, then clamped previously buckled edges against glass and allowed to cool over night. Bingo, when clamp and tape removed, rubber maintained its new profile very well, and can be installed without a buckle. BTW, I also tried cutting 3 thin wedges out of the rubber and that resulted in a neat fit as well, but as suggested is more likely prone to water penetration. So use a heat gun is my recommendation.