VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Re: Front Shocks

Does anyone know what tool to use to remove the arms from the top of the double knee shocks? Will a pitman puller work? Or is there some other tool?
Thanks
Todd

Todd,

Seems that there was an article on this sometime recently. You may want to check the search engine.

Best I can recall is you have to cut the weld where the forward and aft parts of the arm come together. then open the plate and remove a key or something. Then the arm pieces will come out of the housing.

All that seems like a mess to me. I think the best bet is to send off your cores and exchange them or have them rebuilt. But, of course, you can do a repair job yourself. Your call.

Someone else will probably point you in the right direction for do-it-youself repairs.

Good luck,
Charlie

If we're talking the same type shock, the post is in the '46-'48 forum...Page 2, 2nd post...I don't recall Mr Wzrd mentioning his method of removal, but I imagine they don't just "fall off"...

I think generally, "leaking fluid" is the problem and the main reason for the rebuild...Mr Wzrd said the leaky seal are in fact just thick leather that can/maybe softened up or just replaced homemade...Remember removal of these things (the shocks) is most likely going to require a front-end alinement check when all is done...

Thanks Guys for the responses,
My car is in the "Frame off" mode right now, the front end has been completely dissassembled. So taking apart the shocks won't affect the needing an alignment one way or the other.
However, Kevin's right they don't just "fall out", I need to get the arms off the shaft, and it looks as if I need a pitman puller to do it, I just wondered if anyone here did their own rebuilds and could give some advice.
I am a machinist by trade and have access to a shop if I need to do any machining. That's why I figured I would do the rebuild myself and try to save a couple of bucks.

Mr Wzrd says he used a hydraulic press to push out the shaft...He posted some great photo's, if you haven't seen them already....Page 2, post #4...'46-'48 Forum.

Kevin,
Awesome! Thanks for the reference!
Todd

Todd, I think you are playing with fire with the assumptions you are making to repair leaking shocks??? Will your machine shop do the work for less than $200 per shock and guarantee the work for 2 years? We have also had posts telling about shocks that were improperly welded back together causing a nightmare of alignment problems. It is easy to assume you can replace shocks on a frame off restoration, try doing it with the front sheet metal on the car? The whole front suspension revolves around the correct installation/alignment of these stocks. You need to recheck the posts on the 37-42 web sight and the 46 to 48 site using the Advanced Search process. This is one area where saving a little money is like going to a casino. Apple Hydraulics is the only company I would trust with rebuilding shocks. I would purchase the ones guaranteed not to leak for 2 years. Good luck, Mike

P.S. Don't buy shocks from ebay. Please keep us posted on how things are working out.

Whoa...Whoa, slow-up there Mike,'ol buddy...Todd is doing an "off-the-frame" restoration...He is a Machinist, which means he has sufficient knowledge concerning getting the arms welded back-up properly...And I've given him fair warning on the re-alinement issues coming his way, which I'm sure he is aware of...

Now, as to buying NOS Knee-shocks off Ebay...I got a set NOS in the Original Box...Their truly a "thing of beauty"...$350 bucks...Get Apple to match that price...! When I get them on I'll tell you if they leak lol...

That's one of my points, Kevin. You do not know if your NOS shocks will leak or if they will be fine for a couple of months and then leak? You do know that it is a lot of work to install/reinstall them. I'll stick with my original opinion. I'll buy the ones with the two year guarantee.

Here is what Apple Hydraulics does for a rebuilt shock...

Two levels of shock rebuilding services:
STANDARD

One Year Guarantee


HEAVY DUTY

Two Year Guarantee

Apple Hydraulics long standing reputation for precision workmanship started with these fine rebuilt shock absorbers.
Externaly cleaned to bare metal. Housings rebushed with bronze bushings, shafts reground and polished. Cylinders and pistons are align honed and polished. To aid dirt and water exclusion highest quality double-lip seals are used, which outlast originals. Valving is properly calibrated for correct jounce and rebound specs. Painted with a gun-metal gray primer.
Prices listed are for Standard Rebuild.

Ever since introduction of our Heavy Duty shock line we have been selling them 2 to 1 over standard units.
Designed for our customers who enjoy driving their cars with performance in mind. Rebuilt to same high quality as our standard units with larger bronze bushing where main shaft rides. Shock valving is upgraded, 15% stiffer than standard shock. Highly recomended for many Armstrong aluminum body shocks, esp. Big Healey front, Midget/Sprite front and TR-6 rear shocks.
Please add $10 per shock for Heavy Duty Rebuild.

Apple charges $195 per shock plus you are charged $100 each if you do not provide them a core.

Five Points does the rebuilding for Chevs of the 40s and were considerably cheaper than Apple when mine were rebuilt.

Sounds like a good deal...Wish I could find the seals they use...And you know the bronze bushing are probably really shot...Probably a better use of time doing something else on the car, and leaving "that" to them...Thanks for the info, Mike.

An FYI I eventually converted to tube shocks, big improvement. '39 straight axle shock mounts will work on a '38 Master. You'll have to drill holes for the upper mount.

Actually Mike,
I am a Journeyman Tool and Die maker as well as a CNC Machine programmer. All of the information you posted by Apple is pretty standard in the machining industry. Thanks for the warning as to the alignment, I will make sure to be certain of positions before I weld, although, I might bolt them instead with ground spacers in between so I have some adjustment.
Tiny,
I appreciate the suggestion of tube shocks, but they wouldn't be period correct, so I am going to go with the knee shocks.
Kevin,
Thanks again for the tips
Todd

Tiny, Thanks for the info on Five Points. Theirs is a three year warranty. When I am ready for a new set I will post a question asking for feedback on experiences people have had with their rebuilt shocks, and the companies they have used. Good luck, Mike

They were available in '39, I used '39 shock mounts. I'd think they would be period correct for a '40.

They are correct for the cars that came with them but not for the ones that came with knee action units.

I'm aware of that. He said "period correct" which they would be.

I don't think I understand the term "Period Correct." Would someone please explain what the others are talking about. I don't see how both type shocks could be "period correct." Hep!
Charlie

Chevrolet cars with leaf front springs from 1930-1938 used a single acting lever type shock absorber in the front (and rear). The last two years with leaf front springs was 1939 and 1940. They used doulble acting tube or air plane type shocks but still had single acting levers on the rear,
The 1934-1938 cars with the enclosed coil spring (knee-action) front suspension had double acting shocks built into the knee-action.
The 1939-1948 cars with the open coil spring knee-action front suspension had the shock absorber and upper controll arm as a part of the front suspension and the upper controll arm and shock, which was double acting, was sold as a unit for replacement. Chevrolet offered no parts for the repair. As long as the shocks were kept filled they would last for a very long time. An after market kit that contained tube shocks were sold for a cheaper replacement but they caused other problems.
The 1939-1938 knee-cation cars used double acting lever shocks in the reat.
From 1949 and up Chevrolet used s tube type shock for all loctations.

So then, Gene, if I understand your reply to my question of "Period Correct" then anything other than what you mentioned would NOT be period correct. Is that right? If so, then, tube shocks on anything that originally had "knee action" in front, at least, would not be "Period Correct."

Thanks for the detailed reply,
Charlie

I guess "my" definition of "period correct" is if it was available in that "period", it could have been installed in that "period" and is therefore period correct. In my mind if you want only what came from the factory on a vehicle you want "vehicle correct" (for lack of a better term). There is nothing wrong with that and is usually preferred. However vehicle correct and period correct are two different animals. A JC Whitney chrome thingamajig wouldn't be vehicle correct but if it was available for purchase when the vehicle was built & sold it is "period correct". Whether one agrees or not that is MY definition of "period correct". The front tube shocks were produced when the vehicle was built so they are period correct.

Tiny,
I think I see where you're coming from.
Thanks,
Charlie

I looked into this a while ago, and Apple Hydraulics wants $445 per, not less than $200. If there is something new out there, I would love to hear from someone who has actually bought from them.

I have been told that the definitive article on rebuilding is http://www.antiqueautoarchive.com/folders/Restoration/kneeaction/kneeactionpdfcompressed.pdf.

That article is what I used to rebuild mine. It is quite thorough and easy to follow.

Maxine and Pat S, The article you are referring to is for rebuilding a 1935 front hydraulic shock. The shock that Todd and I are concerned about is a more modern version used by Chevy through out 1939-1948. If you know of an article pertaining to rebuilding a 1939-1948 shock and a source for replacement parts please let us know. Thanks, Mike

P.S. 1939-1948 shocks are rebuilt for $195 each or $390 a pair from Apple Hydraulic Inc. or by Five Points Hydraulic Shocks for $350 a pair. Five Points does give a 3 year warranty while Apple Hydraulic Inc. is for 1 or 2 years. I believe that Apple Hydraulic shocks are what Chevs of the 40's are handling.