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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 78 |
Looking again for driver side Dubonnet unit. Replacement acquired earlier too worn. Inner spindle shaft out of round, bore therefore out of round and needles worn to varying circumfrences. Tried earlier to build up shaft and bore with slow-cure JBWeld, but after a few miles on repaired unit the epoxy has broken loose and created fine cutting grit in the trans oil used as hydraulic fluid for shock... Valve units OK; can't remove plug/cap even with head and air wrench to further dissemble. Anyone have one of these units (driver side) known to be in good shape, perhaps rebuilt -- or anyone know of way to salvage unit I have. Car is a piece of furniture as it is without front end. Still don't want to convert to straight axle, which I have. If you've had such a unit rebuilt by Apple Hyraulics or other do you know what they do to rebuild -- will they rebuild a worn unit like this?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 26
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 26 |
I hope that you didn't use needle roller bearings again. You are best to trow them away, machine the shaft to good metal and press brass bushes into the housing. Also change the packing to a lip type modern seal. Go top the site below for further information.
http://la.znet.com/~c1937/
Ken Australia
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 78 |
Ken -- Thanks for the post. Yes, I did reuse the needles (having my fingers crossed all the while, knowing I was probably doomed for re-failure). A few questions if you don't mind: I recognize that a bushing is probably pressed into the inner housing bore but is a bushing also pressed into the larger outside bore? Was there a particular type of machine shop you found to turn the spindle shaft? The seems that turning the shaft would require a lathe that could handle a large throw like this and my local machinist didn't have the tool. Perhaps a large truck repair shop? I have never been able to remove the top cap, (plug comes out only with use of an air wrench and even then it is difficult, even under heat); what trick did you use? The inner gearing pivot unit has shifted and I can no longer slip the spindle shaft spline into the housing. I have been through these knees now twice. The passenger side had been rebuilt years ago and seems OK though very stiff. I had discovered that the rebuilder or someone had reversed the valves in the compression and rebound shock units. I corrected, but unit is still quite stiff. Anyway, long message...just looking to get passed this problem.
Jim Leman/Grayslake, IL
P.S. I publish a bi-monthly magazine for owners of 1942-1954 Plymouths and have a reader or two in Australia.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 26
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 26 |
Hi Jim
Pleased to help if I can. Unless you have a large bench vice or similar you are best to remove the top cap while the unit is still on the car. I used a very large set of stillsons but you can use a large pipe wrench that uses a chain to wrap around the cap. I would recommend putting two bushes in seeing that you are going to all the trouble. Yes you need to find a machine shop with a large throw lathe to spin the shaft for you. Once you do it right you should never have to worry about your knees again but just appreciate the wonderful ride.
Ken 37 Master Deluxe Australia
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 78 |
Thanks everyone for the Dubonnet responses. Since writing my post I located a complete Master Deluxe front end from a '37 with 28K miles. Both units were filled with clear shock fluid. I pulled the smaller inner housing cap covering the inner spindle shaft and there was no out of round on the shaft or housing bore and the bearings were in place and have been well lubricated. Put the "new" knees on my car and now have a nice, level ride, leak free. I can now change a king pin in about 15 seconds flat!
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