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Herb Jackson
spttvb
Grease Monkey
Forum Member # 1994
posted May 31, 2003 18:53
Hi! I am new to this list and a new chevy owner. I bought this "restored" coupe which has some minor problems. If anyone has advise I am here to listen attentively.
Problem 1: Knee actin shocks, no fluid in them, i filled with hydraulic jack oil which drips out and there does not seem to be any dampening effect. should i go to a heavier oil (140w.)???
problem 2: brakes are dragging even after opening bleeders and backing off adjusters, supposed to be rebuilt?
Problem 3: ammeter shows discharge when rpm increases, charge when lights are turned on (at idle) wired backwards?
Problem 4: excessive lost motion in steering, can adjust steering gearbox?
Problem 5: all the nice new looking plastic knobs on the controls (choke...) pull off when pulled. glue back on?
questions:where can i obtain a genuine chevrolet shop manual?, should i look for a master front suspension and abandon the "knee actions", wiring is all brittle and bare in places, is it best to make up a harness or buy one pre made. should i update the motor to a 235 if i want to use this car daily?
Guess thats enough stupid questions for today! thanks to anyone that wants to discuss my situation. the car looks pretty nice, has new chrome, not real good quality but shiny, fairly good paint but has some dirt in it or something. i dont think there is any bondo and the metal is all solid. runs very nice but all the motor mounts are broken. i am not driving it.Its a good car, just needs some help.
thanks,
steven phelps
steven
Junkyard Dog
Forum Member # 4
posted May 31, 2003 19:07
Number 3: Wired backwards. Reverse the wires on the amp gauge.
From: Eagle Point, Oregon
Chev Nut
Forum Member # 252
posted May 31, 2003 19:41
#4 steering lost motion.Check tie rod ends and steering relay rod ends for looseness.Have someone move steering wheel back and forth and see if the is lost motion in ends.If there is a internal cushioning spring could be broken....Loosen lock nut on top of steering gear housing.Turn center screw in (with wheels straight ahead)until play is eleminated or screw bottoms.It tightened too far steering will be stiff in the center.If screw bottoms out and you still have play steering gear most likely needs rebuilding.(there are two other steering gear adjustments-this is the one that produces the most "play".You should get a shop manual.......#2-brakes draging-most common cause-wheel cylinders have sticky pistons-re-rebuild-common on these brakes.Often required every few years-especially if car not used for long periods.....#5-Plastic knobs-some one put new replacement knobs on -incorrectly-??....#1.....Knee-action leaks..Heavy gear oil will not leak as fast and cause shock action to be very stiff.What does leak will cause a real mess.Wouldn't be my suggestion.Changing to straight axle is a very big job-be prepared....Get a shop manual from
www.fillingstation.com-have good reprints.Yes, wiring harness should be replaced-available in Filling Stations catalog.(they also sell motor mounts)When all these items are repaired we will talk about engines.
Chevgene
From: West Allis,Wi.
Bowtie Bob
Shade Tree Mechanic
Forum Member # 1442
posted June 01, 2003 06:59
spttvb:
I agree with JYD & chev nut, but would like to add my 2¢ as to swapping out the front axle & engine.
I have owned several mid to late-30's Chevys, with knee action & without. If you are going to use the car as a 'driver', I would definitely NOT want a straight axle front end. The knee action, when maintained & performing correctly, is a joy to drive. The straight axle tends to "hop" when bumps are encountered. One of the reasons the knee action front ends got a bad reputation, was the ignoring of leaks that developed and subsequent failure of the units from running dry. The is a large packing nut, requiring a thin, 2 7/16" or 2 1/2" (can't recall exact size) open end wrench on the side of each unit, that you can try tightening. If the units are worn, it requires a fairly well equipped machine shop to repair them. A place called Apple Hydraulics has been repairing these for some time and do a good job from reports I've heard. Not a cheap fix, but one well worth the money, IMO.
As to the 235 engine swap, I have installed a 235 engine in my '37 coupe, as my primary interest is in touring at normal highway speeds and I've had bad experiences with 216 engines retaining the babbiting with speeds in excess of 50-55 mph. The nice thing about this swap is, that it's fairly easy to reverse. I kept my original 216 engine (and turn it over by hand once a month to prevent any rusting) in dry storage, just in case I ever go completely insane and decide to make it a "show" car, although that's unlikely
Welcome to the VCCA chat room and, if you're not a VCCA member, you might want to consider joining both the National & local clubs. There's a wealth of information in the monthly club magazine and the help & camaraderie of local friends is invaluable.
Best of luck to you!!
-Bob
From: Rochester, N.Y.
Chev Nut
Forum Member # 252
posted June 01, 2003 07:13
Bob,Do you turn over once a month too -its a good way to check to see if your still alive-it works well for me.......I do agree with Bob completely on the knee-action front end.The ride and steering is vastly superior with the "knees".
Chevgene
From: West Allis,Wi.
Junkyard Dog
Forum Member # 4
posted June 01, 2003 14:10
On the 216 engine, I would like to share my experience as well. I've owned my 1951 Chevy since 1960, and I have driven it many, many thousands of miles over the last 40 plus years. Most of it has been highway driving at 60 to 65 miles an hour, and on trips as long as 900 miles in a period of two days. The original engine is still running strong as ever and I have never had a problem with the babbit bearings or rods. Back in the early 1980's Mikey and I toured our cars together to various VCCA car meets, some 300 miles in each direction. Mikey has a 1938 Town Sedan, and I would usually follow him down the freeway in my '51 and our average speed was always around 60 MPH. Like my '51, Mikey's '38 ran like a top and there was never a problem with the babbit in his engine either. Even today, (while my '51 Chevy isn't on the road as much as it used to be), I still drive my '51 at 60 to 65 on the freeway, and with 112,000 miles on the old 216, it just keeps on a tickin' like an old Timex watch.
From: Eagle Point, Oregon
Bowtie Bob
Shade Tree Mechanic
Forum Member # 1442
posted June 01, 2003 18:41
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob,Do you turn over once a month too -its a good way to check to see if your still alive-it works well for me.......
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chev Nut: My wife manages to keep me in constant motion with the "Honey-do's". No time to die....too much work to do !!
JYD: You must have the luck o' the hound dogs!! Or maybe my luck just isn't too good. I've taken the babbiting out of main bearings on two different late-30's Chevys after high speed driving and yes, both engines had the oil pan nozzles and rod dippers checked with original Kent-Moore gages.
There's also a fellow in our club that was a mechanic in the 50's, who told us that the incidences of older Chevys with bearing failures increased dramatically after the New York State Thruway opened in 1955 and people were driving 60+ mph. The last time I blew a bearing was on a tour and about 500 miles from home and while we finished the tour with friends, and I went back the following weekend and towed it home, I decided then & there to never again tour with a babbit-pounder again. I guess we are all products of our experiences.
-Bob
From: Rochester, N.Y.
Junkyard Dog
Forum Member # 4
posted June 01, 2003 20:04
Humm...it must be because of where you live! Ha ha! Let's see, in the past we have owned a 1946 Chevy pickup, a 1940 Chevy coupe, a 1949 Chevy, and two 1952 Chevy 4 door sedans, (plus my '51 Chevy that I still own) and all had their original factory babbit engines until the day that we sold them. None of the cars had any babbit problems throughout their careers, and they were still going strong when the new owners drove them away. As I remember, the one '52 Chevy had almost 150,000 miles on it when the car was sold and the only thing that went out on it was the starter. That car was driven all up and down the west coast (as my '51 Chevy has done) and it performed perfectly just like the rest of the poured babbit vehicles. But, that must be because of where I live. Ha ha!
From: Eagle Point, Oregon
Chev Nut
Forum Member # 252
posted June 01, 2003 20:10
I have had the same results as JYD with my 216s.Several of us used to travel many hundreds of miles at 60-65 with our '37-'40s and no one ever had a bearing problem. (all engines had properly adjusted bearings)(cars has 4.22 gears).Still run my '39 (now with 3.73) at 65-70 as well as my '50 PG.Do not recommend this with an unknown bearing condition on a 65 year old car(being driven by a 70 year old nut)
Chevgene
From: West Allis,Wi.
spttvb
Grease Monkey
Forum Member # 1994
posted June 02, 2003 03:05
I want to thank all who have replied to my post. Some good and interesting information. I did e-mail apple about rebuilding the shocks as the consensus seems to be to keep them. Also searched the archives and printed a 22 pg. article on rebuilding your own which i dont think i want try. I may try the ATF sealer fix that was mentioned and I am curious about tightening up that seal nut?? My father had a 41 coupe till 1961 which we drove regularly. I dont remember how fast but interstate speeds where I live,florida, are now around 75 mph. i doubt the 216 is up to that. I had a 47 3/4 ton truck with "thriftmaster 216" for 10 years, never had a problem with that motor but i didnt drive it over 45mph. Used it 10 years in heavy consruction work and only sold it wwhen i moved from wisconsin to florida. Knew it would be a traffic obstacle.
I am sending in my VCCA membership app. today!
steven
From: vero beach, fl.
Chev Nut
Forum Member # 252
posted June 02, 2003 06:22
ATF sealer will not help your leaking knees.The seal used was one cork and one small rubber and it would be very doubtful if the rubber one would swell up anymore.To tighten the packing nut the set screw that locks it in place must be loosened first.The nut threads unto the main housing where the large arm passes thru.You can turn the nut with a large chain or pipe wrench.This may help a little but the units are usually worn out from being run dry.
Chevgene
From: West Allis,Wi.
Bowtie Bob
Shade Tree Mechanic
Forum Member # 1442
posted June 02, 2003 16:23
OK, OK, OK......I surrender. I must just have terrible luck, which not only explains the bearings in two, count 'em, TWO 216 motors going bad, but also my inability to win the lottery. That and the fact I don't play the lottery !!
With all due respect, however, I will keep the 235 in my '37 for touring purposes. I can't stand the snickers & guffaws of the F*rd owners when they see a Chevy going down the road on the wrong end of a tow rope.
Bob
From: Rochester, N.Y.
Junkyard Dog
Forum Member # 4
posted June 02, 2003 17:01
Ha ha! Ya just gotta have faith! None of my 216's have ever been towed home, not in over 250,000 miles of driving with my '51 Chevy and the other '52 four door that I once had. As a matter of fact, I even towed home a Ford roadster with my Chevy once!
Hum........I have the same luck with the lottery.....never win........never buy a ticket either!
Yep, it must be your luck......which is a lot like mine in just about everything........BAD!
From: Eagle Point, Oregon
spttvb
Grease Monkey
Forum Member # 1994
posted June 02, 2003 17:28
Hi, you've all been so good to talk about my problem i thought i should ask another question, actually two.
1. does my 38 have the needle bearings on the king pins and are they (king pins) difficult to remove. i see that is what i have to do to get the shocks off for rebuilding. the archive i downloaded was for a 34-36. what new parts may i need?
2. anyone know of a good "dash fan" source?, as i recall they had little fans before AC to blow on the driver and passenger, guess they were good for demisting as well.
thanx.
steven
From: vero beach, fl.
AntiqueMechanic
Forum Member # 13
posted June 02, 2003 17:58
38/39 Fan
Check the above listing to see what a bargain you missed out on.
RAY
Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/ From: Vancouver, WA
Chev Nut
Forum Member # 252
posted June 02, 2003 19:30
The 1938 king pins do not have needle bearings.They have full floating bushings (free to turn on "both sides".The earlier years had needle bearings but the replacement kits for them also have bushings.To remove king pins remove the lock "stud" the upper and lower plugs and lock rings and drive out........Ray, For that kind of money it had better blow refriderated air
Chevgene
From: West Allis,Wi.
spttvb
Grease Monkey
Forum Member # 1994
posted June 03, 2003 15:22
Holy cow!
Guess a 20$ fan from Napa would be better. This is my first expierience with "antique" cars. My other "old cars" were just cheap to drive.I paid 65$ for my 47 chevy truck(1970). I was only 12 years old when dad sold the 41 coupe so i guess i've been wanting an older chevy car ever since i never got to drive it! looks like this knee action ordeal is going to be expensive too.
I wont bid on any fans!
Steven
steven
From: vero beach, fl.
Bowtie Bob
Shade Tree Mechanic
Forum Member # 1442
posted June 04, 2003 16:06
Don't be too dismayed over the price of that fan. It commanded a huge (IMO) price because it was a genuine correct Chevrolet accessory. Not too many people bought them at the time because, as nowadays, Dealer accessories were expensive, compared with some similar items offered by contemorary aftermarket suppliers. Thus, the Dealer supplied accessories are rare & sought after, making them expensive. Very nice aftermarket vacuum operated fans can be found at our local swap meets in the $35 - $50 range.
-Bob
From: Rochester, N.Y.
