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Ever since I noticed a noise in the 235 I have in my 37 I have been thinking about a vintage V8 like a Olds rocket or a Buick nailhead but a relative has a low mile 235 that came out of a 56 car,its supposively a 12,000 mile motor that came out of a one owner car his friend has that got modified into a hotrod. I kind of doubt it has that low of miles but will be picking it up saturday and get it resealed and painted in the 37 color and hope to get it installed this winter,I hope I can find a reasonably priced corvette exhaust manifold and tach drive distributor before it goes in but if i do will have to work a second job to get the money for those parts.
VCCA #45194
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I have a 56/235 in my 38 coupe now.It has everthing bolted on it that will work from the old 216 so it doesn't run as well as a full 235 cu.in. engine I'm sure. It is a pretty reliable engine. Low RPM and Horsepower but it should pull the 37 down the road fairly well for a long time. I'd make sure it has a new rear main bearing and a new pan gasket. Good luck. ![[Linked Image from inlinethumb47.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/14830/2936516490029539674S600x600Q85.jpg) You will have to butcher....I mean modify ....the rear crossbrace. The 235 is about 3/4 inch to long. If you figure out how to make a nice looking rear cross member ...email me...smile  ![[Linked Image from inlinethumb39.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/50150/2661372950029539674S600x600Q85.jpg)
Last edited by wawuzit; 08/05/12 07:05 PM.
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I was going to tear my motor apart but since the noise is in the cylinder that was sleeved I was worried about opening a can of worms with it and needed a back up,if its a 12,000 mile motor it should be in nice shape and ready to drop in after a reseal and paint.
VCCA #45194
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Backyard Mechanic
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and u will save a bundle with a gently used motor vs. an Xpensive rebuild ! i have a 1954 - 235 in my 39 & she can really go . the rebuild was alot of money .frank
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When I rebuilt the present 235 I had over a grand in it back in 89 and bummed it has issues so I hope the new motor is what I have been told it is,I wish now I would have thrown it in the scrap pile and found another or had another machine shop do the work.
VCCA #45194
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yah " the right shop " is the key to it all . i used a good race motor shop with an older xperienced guy in charge .
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When I rebuilt the present 235 I had over a grand in it back in 89 and bummed it has issues so I hope the new motor is what I have been told it is,I wish now I would have thrown it in the scrap pile and found another or had another machine shop do the work. JYJ.....Maybe this is a opportunity for you to start a whole new fad . You could swap your engine for a electric motor set up out of a Chevy VOLT...I think this will be the next move in the mild Hot Rod movement (stock on the out side but a few improvements for better driving)..Just think you could be the trail blazer on this swap. It will happen sooner or later so here is your chance to make history....GOOD LUCK..Ed
I was only wrong one time in my life so far. But that time I was right, and only thought I was wrong....ED
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I would put a 216 back in it before a electric motor.
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I got the motor home but am begining to doubt the low miles since its not as clean on the inside like I thought it would be,I know it probably had alot of non detergent oil used in it so that could be the reason it is not clean enough to eat off the inside, I think it has been repainted since there is blue paint over the throttle linkage,sending units and spark plugs which are not AC but Champions.
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"You will have to butcher....I mean modify ....the rear crossbrace. The 235 is about 3/4 inch to long. If you figure out how to make a nice looking rear cross member "
I installed a 1961 235 in my '37 Sports Coupe about 20-years ago and have driven it all over the USA without any major problems. It makes a great touring car that can go be driven at turnpike speeds. I don't recall having had to modify the transmission cross member, however.
-BowTie Bob
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Do you still have it? I'd love to see the rear crossmember photo. The engine HAS to bolt up to the location of the transmission because of the torquetube. There is no way to change that. The 56/235 oilpan will hit the rear crossmember. Maybe a 61/235 is different. Hoping some of our experts will chime in. http://pugetsoundvintagechevrolet.org/Programs/6%20cylinder%20engines%20with%20photos.pdfAs many guys that have changed over to a 235 from a 216,you'd think someone would be able to give some information about this subject. I've asked this question for 3 years.
Last edited by wawuzit; 08/12/12 07:14 PM.
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I did not have to do any modifications to the rear crossmember when I put the 1957 235 in my 37 but its a truck,when I originally installed it I used the 37 bellhousing and mounts and it fit like it was made for it,on the front mount I just drilled the plate and used the 37 front mount. There should have been no modifications done to put the 235 in your 38 unless the cars are different.
VCCA #45194
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Do you still have it? I'd love to see the rear crossmember photo. The engine HAS to bolt up to the location of the transmission because of the torquetube. There is no way to change that. The 56/236 oilpan will hit the rear crossmember. Maybe a 61/235 is different. Hoping some of our experts will chime in. http://pugetsoundvintagechevrolet.org/Programs/6%20cylinder%20engines%20with%20photos.pdfAs many guys that have changed over to a 235 from a 216,you'd think someone would be able to give some information about this subject. I've asked this question for 3 years. Steve..Maybe their just hiding this information from you..And the cross member alteration is a very closely guarded secret and you are not in the loop???. BTW if I knew ..I would tell you....(for a price). BTW Try offering a reward..Good Luck..ED
I was only wrong one time in my life so far. But that time I was right, and only thought I was wrong....ED
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Do you take Visa?
Maybe someone cut an inch out of the frame...grin
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What is wrong with adjusting the shape of the sump, for 3/4" it wont cause any clearance troubles inside the engine. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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If I ever get my hands on another crossmember that has not been butchered I'm going to try to modify the pan. The problem is the boltflange might be in the way,the modified pan would almost have to have a flat pc. of metal right where the flange is located. Surely someone with a 38/235 has a photo of their crossmember.I think a truck would be different. Not must can be swapped from a truck to a car in 1938.
Last edited by wawuzit; 08/13/12 09:10 AM.
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"Do you take Visa?" Steve, most folks would say, "Will you take a check?" Now, let me suggest something to you: a. Dump the 235 for a 1938 216. Where do you have to go that that a babbitt 216 won't get you there? b. Get an original cross-member. c. Go original as possible. You will have the adventure that you now have omitted from your old car driving. Adventure is not fun while it is happening. The car will not offer any comforts but will give many a pleasant memory after you are safely back home after having no mishaps and mending all the breakdowns beside the busy interstate. That is something the modifiers and the modern car enthusiasts don't enjoy to the same degree as those who venture out not knowing what will happen before they reach a safe harbor. d. Keep the chrome. It makes the car look even better. I guess. As you hit 55 mph a-going down the highway with an old babbitt 216 engine, whose pistons sound like they're trying to swap holes, babbitted rods a-pounding against the crankshaft and noise so loud that it renders a radio useless, you will experience a pucker factor that only you as owner and driver appreciate. That 235 is too much of a comfort blanket. Just trying to help you experience the thrill of victory when you pull into the garage. Best, Charlie
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If and when (I hope never) I have to tear half the car apart to replace a waterpump (remove 100 bolts and scratch EVERTHING) I guess I'' become a streetrodder. I'll be like 95% of the 38 coupe owners . That is beyond crazy.
I thought taking the body off the frame to replace a clutch was crazy on a 2008 Z06. This would be as bad as that.
I'll just SLOWLY drive around the area and hope nothing happens.It seems to be fine for now. As far as writing a check. I have'nt done that in years. It's either electronic or Visa. Come over the hill and visit me and Ill show you how good that Visa works at Cracker Barrel...smile
Last edited by wawuzit; 08/13/12 10:23 AM.
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More Photos,maybe I'm not explaining this correctly. ![[Linked Image from inlinethumb14.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/50829/2679470800029539674S600x600Q85.jpg) ![[Linked Image from inlinethumb33.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/50848/2579816370029539674S600x600Q85.jpg) If you notch out the bottom of the oilpan ,you'd have to put a new drain plug, even then with a new crossmember,I'm not sure you could get the flange part over the crossmember to get it to bolt up to the block. It maybe easier to modify the crossmember. Suggestions? The purpose of this is to stop CLUTCH CHATTER. The weakened crossmember (I Think) is causing at least part of the problem.
Last edited by wawuzit; 08/13/12 10:43 AM.
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Hey Charlie, I do 55 all the time and I'm unaware of this "hole-swapping" noise your referring too...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Steve, I have two unaltered rear cross members like the ones you show in your photos. They were removed from 1939 frames. I will not tell you why they were removed, I don't want to start another "Hot Rod Put Down" grin
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wawuzit@comcast.net Will a 39 fit a 38? If so, I want one of them. THANKS
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I did not have to do anything like that on my 37 truck,would it be possible to remove the oil trays in a 216 pan and use it on a 235. More Photos,maybe I'm not explaining this correctly. ![[Linked Image from inlinethumb14.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/50829/2679470800029539674S600x600Q85.jpg) ![[Linked Image from inlinethumb33.webshots.com]](http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/50848/2579816370029539674S600x600Q85.jpg) If you notch out the bottom of the oilpan ,you'd have to put a new drain plug, even then with a new crossmember,I'm not sure you could get the flange part over the crossmember to get it to bolt up to the block. It maybe easier to modify the crossmember. Suggestions? The purpose of this is to stop CLUTCH CHATTER. The weakened crossmember (I Think) is causing at least part of the problem.
VCCA #45194
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No. The 56 /235 oil pan has offsets on the side.In other words it is not straight down the side edge. In Tennessee we call it a wig-wag. smiles
Last edited by wawuzit; 08/13/12 05:39 PM.
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Kevin, Kevin, I was just kidding in order to influence Steve enough that he would join the rest of us in our babbitt pounding adventures. Rats! Now I've got to think of something else to entice him. Anyway, I'm wouldn't be surprised that, at some unforeseen, severe speed bump, the weakened crossmember of his doesn't open up like bomb-bay doors and release the engine - like a B-24 on a bomb run. That, at least, must cause some degree of anxiety. Charlie BTW: I was going to say B-17 but they are too sleek in comparison to a 38. Yeah, the B-24 is rather boxy and, thus, may be much more appropriate. 'nother grin.
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