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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118 |
Time to get a steering wheel pretty for my 31. I took the best looking of the 2 spares that I have and started sanding it down. Luckily, I discovered that the tapered bore in the one I was working on is smaller than the one on the car so I didn't waste a lot of time working on it. The one on the car has a tapered and splined bore measuring approx. .740 to .675 with a 1/8" keyway. The other two have a tapered bore with no splines measuring .620 to .485 with a keyway that seems to be .175. One of the spares also has the hub extending down about 1/2" below the rubber.
Can anyone tell me what the two spares fit? The design and detail are the same for all three.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
The keyed and splined wheel is for '38 passenger. The keyed wheel with metal part extending below the wheel is '31-'37 and '38-'40 truck. The keyed wheel that has metal even with the bottom is '33-'36 Standard. It also has the smaller tapered bore.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118 |
Sooo! It looks like someone way back when changed out the steering gear with 38. How much will this affect things on my 31?
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
That is exactly what I was thinking.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,192 Likes: 8
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,192 Likes: 8 |
There is a 1932 steering box on ebay at the moment, don't know the condition, but if the 1938 works, i think the pitman shaft is easier to procure for a 1938 box than a 1932. They must have machined the 1938 steering box housing to fit into the 1932 chassis brackets, or have done some other modification to fit the 1938 steering box. You could also have the 1938 steering shaft machined to a taper to suit the original wheel, but that means removing the steering box and worm shaft from the box. Click on this blue underlined link to the 1932 steering box. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-CHEVRO...8&pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&vxp=mtr
JACK
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118 |
Well, it has been working ok for the few miles I have driven it so I guess I will move on to more important things (like the mysterious expensive sounding noise coming from the left rear wheel).
Thanks for the input, guys.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 360
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 360 |
Just a thought on your expensive sounding noise from the left rear wheel. After replacing the rear axle seals, new brakes and installing new road gears (from Larry Jackson) I had a noise from the left rear wheel. Spent a lot of time trying to figure it out and found that the clevis type pin that held the emerency brake shoe in place had come loose and the brake shoe was rubbing the drum (sounded worse when making a left turn).
karl
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 118 |
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