VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Harmonic Balancer Removal

I attempted to remove the harmonic balancer today with the puller (the one that has the two bolts into the balancer). I thought it was starting to move a little but I realized the crankshaft was moving forward within the block and the balancer hadn't budged at all. At this point I also have the bell housing, clutch, and flywheel off.

How bad is it for the shaft to move forward?

I was thinking of using some heat, but some think that's a bad idea. What would help me get this harmonic balancer off.

You are doing the correct procedure. I don't understand your comment about the "crank shaft" moving forward. The shaft could move forward a fraction of an inch, but not enough for you to see it.

I would continue with the puller you are using and check that you have it set up correctly. It is permissible to strike the center of the puller with a large hammer or shock hammer. Make sure you have the two screws inserted deeply in the balancer so you don't pull out the threads.

Best of luck with your project.

Being that I have the flywheel off and nothing on the backend of the motor, would this would allow for extra movement of the shaft?

Maybe I'm not understanding what was actually happening but it didn't appear that the harmonic balancer was moving forward.

Sorry, I know it makes it harder not knowing the correct terminology.

I don't have any NEW ideas but I can repeat what Ray said...

The puller needs to be fully installed -- ie. The bolts all the way through the harmonic balancer.

Then -- when you tighten down on the center bolt of the puller - in theory - that would be enough to "pop" the harmonic balancer off. But we all know that things don't happen that easily.

So the next, easiest, thing to do is WHILE THE PULLER is fully tightened down (center screw), tap the center screw with a large hammer (2 1/2 pounder is my favorite). Don't go crazy with it. All you're trying to do is add some "shock value" to the mating surfaces of the harmonic balancer and the crankSHAFT. Theoretically, the puller is exerting lots and lots of pressure on trying to separate the two -- and the hammer effect is to try to add a simple, sudden shock effect to break the surfaces apart.

Now when that fails (notice that I said "when" -- sorry) you need to do something different.

1. Get a larger Puller -- put even MORE Pressure on the h. balancer, or

2. Add a different "shock" treatment - such as heat with a torch. You can do this to the h. balancer - NOT the crank. You want to EXPAND the h. balancer so that it slips off the crank.

3. Also put some PB Blaster, or WD40 on the crankshaft center (at h. balancer). This would be more effective if the engine could be stood upright and let the solvent seep into the crack overnight. (You can't see it, but there is a very, very small space between them.) If that isn't an option, then spray solvent on the area (crank/h.balancer) and then aim your air gun at it. just give it a blast. Do this about 4 or 5 times... You won't be able to see anything happen, but the force of 80 psi air will help drive some solvent into the tiny cracks. And, of course, if you do this why the PULLER still has tension on the h. balancer, then you need to be aware that it JUST MIGHT POP off when you least expect it.

After the solvent test, then try heat again.

Sorry -- I don't know a better way. If anybody else does, speak up NOW. Ha!!

--Bill B

The harmonic balancer has rubber in it, and if you apply heat in attempting to remove it from the crankshaft, you'll likely damage it.

Only a few things to add or subtract from Bill's list.

Do not heat the harmonic balancer except as a last resort. There is rubber in many balancers which can be destroyed with only a moderate amount of heat. If you can verify that there is no rubber then a moderate amount of heat is okay.

Add an air hammer with blunt ended tool to the type or size of hammer to use on the end of the center bolt. The rapid hammering can be much more effective than a single blow. Putting a short pipe that extends a bit past the bolt head can help the tool from walking off the bolt head.

Be careful when installing the small bolts into the balancer. It is possible for the bolt ends to go completely through the balancer and dent, distort or penetrate the timing cover. Don't ask how I know that!

Comment: The movement of the crankshaft (forward and back) is controlled by a thrust surface on one of the main bearings (typically center).

After being told the crankshaft is not going to move I attempted the pull the h.b. off again.
When I was looking behind the hb-what I thought was the shaft to the crankshaft was actually the hub of the hb. So when the hb was coming off or out of the block I was thinking it was the crankshaft. Sorry another rookie error that sent this topic into a panic. Or at least I went into a panic thinking I messed something up.

In the last 5 years I have removed about 8 harmonic balancers. I use a very good heavy duty puller (mine is a Sears Craftsman with a lifetime guarantee), and a good impact wrench. I thread the puller bolts, through the balancer and put nuts on the ends of the bolts so the threads on the holes of the balancer do not take all the abuse. I use an assortment of washers that I place between the puller and the balancer so the puller can not get out of alignment with the balancer. You want the puller and balancer to maintain rigidity until the balancer is off of the crank. The balancer walks right off. I have done this on 4 engines of various condition with no problems. As others have posted you should NEVER use heat on a balancer. To install a balancer I use a very large socket to cover the fingers on the balancer and drive the balancer on with a sledge hammer. I make light taps so the key aligns right and make sure all surfaces are very clean. I also have put anti seize on the mating surfaces but have been cautioned not to do this??? Good luck, Mike

Well, that clears it up. I've never used heat before, but thought that it sounded pretty good. I've only seen the metal springs in the balancer - not any rubber... Oh, well, you've never too old to learn.

Now - for reinstalling the harmonic balancer, I've always been scared to death of wrecking the main bearings - especially the center (or rear) thrust face. So I've been very timid about hitting it -- BUT -- in some cases, it has taken quite a jolt to get it seated all the way. --- I just wish that there was a better way.

--bb

I have seen one of these style dampers fly off an early Vette with a SB, so I would not use anti-seize.
But would definitely use a sleeve. 99 out of a 100 need one or the timing cover seal will leak oil like crazy.

6-15 describes the Harmonic Balancer construction and combination puller/driver but other than what Mike wrote I never saw a driver before.

When a new balancer was purchased from Chevrolet it came with bolts tightened down in the puller holes and a note telling you to remove the bolts after installation.
By tightening bolts down in the puller holes you lock out the deadening effect of the balancer making it easier to drive on.
The puller/driver shown in 6-15 would also tighten down in the puller holes giving the same effect when installing.

The bolts were not there to make te balancer easier to drive on. The were there to protect the rubber between the balancer hub and rim. This is what deadened the harmonics. The shop manual tells you to install the bolts when driving the balancer in place so the balancer is not damaged.

How many of you used a sleeve to insure that the seal on the timing gear cover didn't leak because of grooves worn in the crankshaft, behind the balancer? I have seen them advertized.

All the sleeves I have used went on the "nose" of the balancer that fit into the timing cover and the seal ran on.

I use the sleeve on every engine I build.

Does anybody have a part number for the "sleeve"?

Is it a problem at all putting the sleeves on? Why would some use them and others choose not to?

Ok so the sleeve goes on the seal part of the balancer

Do a Google search for Harmonic balancer sleeve.



Summit Racing
Fel-Pro Q16202 - Fel-Pro Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves


Harmonic Balancer, Repair Sleeve, Steel, Chevy, Pontiac, L4, L6, V6, V8, Each

Part Number: FEL-16202


$5.95

The sleeves go on easily. If the balancer is not grooved then don't need one. Most are grooved so a sleeve is a good idea. Also the sleeve is harder than the balancer so does not groove as easily.