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Without doing a re-build but on the bench what is the best proceedure for cleaning out any foreion particals?What can I remove with out having to replace it....I am not useing a fuel filter and want to make sure I do not get build up ..I also have a resently re-built carb that is a bit plugged which I would like to clean out
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Aerosol carburetor cleaner and compressed air are the best things to use to clean a carburetor without a complete disassembly. Removing plugs is best by blowing it back in the direction that it came. If using a wire or other probe be very careful as some metering surfaces can be damaged. The softer the probe the better.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Totally agree with Chipper chef. Carb cleaner, compressed air, and ANY kind of probe you use make sure it is SOFT. Dont forget the safety glasses. Carb cleaner in the eye has a very unique B U R N to it! Do it also on a clean area of the work bench. Those brass plugs can get lost real easy!
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So if I remove the plugs will they re-seat the same?I have a new re-build kit for "later use" and was not planing on changing out the brass washers on the carb I would like to clean
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As long as they don't get damaged the plugs should reseat.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Here is a detailed repair sheet for the W-1 written by Carter Carburetor in 1948.  I'm sure this will assist you with your cleaning. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_W1_service.pdfHarold
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Thanks for the link! That's a really nice Service Procedure.
Dale Carter VCCA #8661 1948 Fleetmaster Convertible 1948 RHD Stylemaster Sedan Delivery 1948 1-Ton Tow Truck 1967 Camaro Coupe
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Perhaps then, what's wrong with my Carter W-1 is that the "re-builder" re-used the slow-speed needle...For a "fresh" rebuild it doesn't work properly...Guess I should remove it and look for any sign of wear...
Note: Manual says: Never re-use "said" needle...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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The low speed needle can be reused without problem unless damaged. The instructions (I have) tell not to reuse the low speed jet. It must seat correctly into the carb body or the engine will not idle properly.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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I think you guys are talking about two different things. The low speed JET should not be reused once it is removed. The idle adjustment screw or needle can be reused providing it was never screwed in to far and groved.
Gene Schneider
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I've never seen any material but brass used for "jets", but now you bring up the question of why not to re-use such...Is it wear...? Or deformation...? Or mis-matched angles...? I'm trying to think of the possibilities of why a seemingly good used ( low speed ) jet would not be okay to re-use...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Without doing a re-build but on the bench what is the best proceedure for cleaning out any foreion particals?What can I remove with out having to replace it....I am not useing a fuel filter and want to make sure I do not get build up ..I also have a resently re-built carb that is a bit plugged which I would like to clean out
Thanks for all the info...We are aproaching a re-build,not my plan
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Without doing a re-build but on the bench what is the best proceedure for cleaning out any foreion particals?What can I remove with out having to replace it....I am not useing a fuel filter and want to make sure I do not get build up ..I also have a resently re-built carb that is a bit plugged which I would like to clean out I think that Chipper answered that question for you on July 11th. Check out posting number 248595 on this thread. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
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If you look at post #248937 above it told you that the low speed jet needs to seat properly or the engine will not idle well. Removing and reinstalling a low speed jet does not insure that it is properly seated.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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...I am not useing a fuel filter and want to make sure I do not get build up ..I also have a resently re-built carb that is a bit plugged which I would like to clean out
Thanks for all the info...We are aproaching a re-build,not my plan I've heard you mention this lack of filter before, Bruce, but...Why is there no fuel filter...?
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Kevin as you know the fuel filter was not factory installed.One would think that that GM felt the lack of a filter would be OK for the carb,at least in 48... I did remove the repro filter after the rubber gasket disolved and caused fuel flow issues..This is the carb I am planning on cleaning out as a back up and there should be no reason to re-build it..When I removed the filter I put on a re-built carb and everything has been fine so far......I do now have some fuel line and will be adding a NOS filter soon..I do have a re-built kit but the clogged carb has very few miles on it and don't want to waste the kit if not needed
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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JYD,yes all was done at the same time..New tank,new fuel lines,re-built carb,"no filter"
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Read my lips : "No Liners"...I see stainless tanks are available for a little extra...That's where I'm headed next time...
'Twas was the rubber in the filter seal that caused all this fuss...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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The tank was new with no liner...The clog in the carb was caused by the deterioration of the rubber gasket that came with the repro fuel filter that caused the whole mess in the first place..
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Read my lips : "No Liners"...I see stainless tanks are available for a little extra...That's where I'm headed next time...
'Twas was the rubber in the filter seal that caused all this fuss... Kevin.....I had allot of problems with my 38 coupe when I got it with rust flakes in the tank. I cant have things like that on my mind, so Like you said, I sprung for a stainless steel tank. Stainless steel is the only tank available for a 38 Master Coupe and they are not bargain basement.....But you know what??? Peace of mind is the most important thing you can invest in. No more do I worry about that problem and I can enjoy my wonderful car without thinking about that it will stop any minute and I will have to clean out the filter...Ahaaa Peace of mind and now only joy...ED
I was only wrong one time in my life so far. But that time I was right, and only thought I was wrong....ED
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Read my lips : "No Liners"...I see stainless tanks are available for a little extra...That's where I'm headed next time...
'Twas was the rubber in the filter seal that caused all this fuss... ...Ahaaa Peace of mind and now only joy...ED Your not married...?
Last edited by kevin47; 07/15/12 06:06 PM. Reason: ....I think it was $329 for a stainless for mine...chicken feed for peace of mind...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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