VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt slow starting TURNOVER with 6 volts

Hi there ,
an update...........
I changed the earthing connections today and it changed the whole event.

One wire "0" gauge was run from the starter directly to the battery.
A second wire, the earth, was run from battery directly to the top bolt of the starter motor itself. No intermediate earthing connections via the chassis.

turned the key and it spun over almost like a 12 volt system in sound and performance.

So the bottom line with 6 volt systems, the earthing is very important and setting up direct connections seems the way to organise things. Just point to point.

tomorrow I will try to start using the 6 volt system for the first time..
Thank you all for your helpful suggestions and help

I will be back.
Peter

Thanks for your Post peter! All too often we do not hear the results, just the questions! Al W.

Hi there Al,
I always try to give feedback, very important when dealing with old cars.
yesterday tried starting using the 6 volt system for the first time.

The engine spun over freely and at a comfortable speed, and after 2 cranks, burst into life....
We then spent the next 3 hours fine tuning the tick-over.
The accelerator linkage is a system of solid steel rods inter connected and very heavy in operation.

Has anyone converted to a cable operation on the 34's?

The pivoting leavers that connect the carbie arm behind the manifold had to come off several times to reduce the length of the pushing arm.
Eventually I attached a small, weakish spring to the throttle leaver on the carbie to assist in pulling it fully off. Once that was done it idled smoothly and the accelerator, although heavy in operation, worked well.

All this activity then led to another problem and I thought, "here we go again".....
I will post that in the mechanical forum in Mr Goodwrench..

Peter

I have found that if the linkage does not have any parts that bind or rub against something else and are properly lubricated (drop of oil) they operate smoothly without to much effort or resistance.

I still need to clean up the Linkage on my 31. That'll happen once the Northeast gets a bit cooler! Al W.

In this part of the world, there still are small firms manufacturing batteries. What we do is order an 8 volt battery. The guy will add an extra cell to the standard battery case and deliver an 8 volt battery. You get the extra punch for starting and it will run OK with the 6 volt layout, bulbs, etc. If you find such a guy, you have it solved at the price and concern of a single battery.

Peter, (Bluey AU) Sorry I'm a little late with a response having just read your article.

I have run a 6 volt deep cycle battery on my 6 volt 27 chev for 3and a half years, the battery was provided to me by my auto elec who is old school almost retired and has been excellent with electrical stuff. I have had about 80 trips in the last 18 months most not really long ones. Because of the battery age I spoke to my auto elec about replacing it last month and he tested it and told me not to waste my money as the battery was in good nick. My car starts easily even in very cold Victorian weather so whilst I do not have any electrical knowledge this is my experience for what it is worth and based on this will use a deep cycle again.

Bob

hi there Bob,
The battery that I recently purchased for the car is also a 6 volt deep cycle, 3 compartment type.

I was unsure if it was the best type for a car that is only going to be used on club plates and no more than twice a month, (long none active periods for the battery).
It was all the battery shop had at the time in 6 volt, so that's what I bought.

I also had to buy another charger for 6 volts, so now I have 2!
I keep it topped up and it takes a lot longer to fully charge than when using the the 12 volt charger on a 12 volt battery.

Is that normal on a deep cycle battery?
Just wondered...
regards
Peter

If it is a low amp charger it will take longer.

Bluey, I have a combination 6 volt 12 volt "projecta" brand charger just switch from 6 volt to 12 volt or visa versa depending on what you are charging. I have had this for the 3 and a half years I have had the deep cycle battery.

I use it regularly and the only time the battery was slow to charge was 12 months ago when I accidentally left the lever on for the ignition for a couple of hours and it took nearly 12 hours to fully charge. I have since replaced this with an after market switch as the contact was poor due to a crack in the bakelite. Most times it now takes 10 - 15 minutes to charge after a run.

I might not use the car for a couple of weeks or I might use it 3 or 4 times a month but for the last 12 months it has been very reliable. I might add I have put an isolator on the battery and always use it when the car is in the garage.

I am happy with battery and charging process. Hope that helps

Bob

Hi there Bob,
the new charger that I now have is of the duel charge type too.
I have also just fitted a battery isolator, the one with the large red removable key.
It will be interesting to see if the generator can keep up with the charging once the car is finally on the road. If not, than I will follow your example and give it a small charge after a club run or outing. Thanks for the advice..

Peter

http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/docs/Chevrolet-Trucks/1938-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

page 48

The 6volt starter should turn the engine over at 65rpm. Roughly one rotation per sec.

If you are trying to do that by hand..I want to see this video too...smiles

hi there, mine is a 34 standard sedan, not a 38 truck?
What are you referring to, with respect?
Peter

oops. Forget that post. I thought we were talking about 37-38 216s.

I accept you Ooops

I was just rereading this post and noticed the part about the battery isolator with the large red key. I just recently removed mine as it was causing a half volt drop. If you incur any further slow turning I would suggest doing a voltage check while cranking, with and without the isolator.

Hi there,
I installed the extra thick wiring as advised on this forum and the red key isolator.
It now starts, almost first time , every time and the isolator is just sitting there, doing its job without any additional problems.

Thats the latest update and fortunately .....The End...

Peter

I had a similar problem and was advised to purchase an Interstate 8 volt battery which solved my problem and everything electrical works..

I would caution using an 8 volt battery. Its a marginal bandaid at best. I would check out the charging system for your car and also the starting circuits. Many issues can be solved by cleaning the battery connections. Make sure all the battery cables are at least "0" and better yet "-02".

For what it's worth, I had slow starting problems for years. Prior owner had tried to solve the problem with an 8 volt battery, which I had no interest in. Cut to the chase, as Don suggests, I went to double aught on the positive and the ground and it now turns like I am jumping from a 12 volt (which I had to do periodically until then).

Same here...What a difference!!!!!