VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '31 use of electric fuel pump

I use my inline 6V electric fuel pump in 2 ways.
1. I turn it on for 3 seconds then shut it off and then crank the engine. The engine starts immediately.
2. when I am running at about 50 mph or so against the wind, sometimes the mechanical fuel pump seems not to be able to keep up, so I hit the switch and the hesitation goes away.

I run the mechanical pump and only use the electric fuel pump in this manner. I installed the electric fuel pump due to the higher speed hesitations and it corrected the problem.

My electric pump is installed immediately after the fuel tank with the hoses and clamps that came with the kit. It has been on the car for 4 years without any problems.
My mechanical pump has been rebuilt and is in perfect working order.

When mounting my elec pump. I used the hole that was in the frame and made a bracket that bolted throught this hole and then mounted the pump to this bracket. I used steel brake line tubing for my fuel line and I was able to bend it correctly as original, but I cut off a protion to install the elec fuel pump.

Good luck on your project

Went out this am and checked for more details. There are actually 6 - 1/4" holes in line along outer edge of frame, with the first a couple of inches from 2nd cross member and the last one a couple of inches past rear shock absorber. With an average spacing of about 12-15 inches, I suspect all were used to keep line off frame and minimize vibration of line. I checked and there is room for line to pass by shock absorber in this lower location at outer edge of frame(well protected, but shock will need to be off for installation). When looking at the mounting holes near the spring perch, it suggests to me the fuel line would have curved up and through the triangular gap (rather than out around it), leaving lots of room to avoid rubbing, and keeping it well protected from those shoddy mechanics and lifts/jacks!. Finally, there are 2 -1/4" holes in top flange of 2nd cross member where line passes toward fuel pump and likely a clamp was in one of these. I like Bill's idea of installing in 2 pieces joined at an appropriate spot, makes easier install, and easier removal if problems later. As for electric fuel pump, will likely leave it out for now, and see how things go. Would still like to see an original install if such a thing exists.

I have an original fuel line off of my car. YES! it goes under the spring perch as shown in the photos. Unless you are going to have your car judged, I would route it behind the shock as well.

I agree, a safer route would be behind the shock, but that Is not "original" But original does not always mean practical.

The line on my roadster was also copper not sure if it had been replaced or not. it also curved around the spring perch. My sedan curves around the spring as well.

If the fuel line is copper it was replaced. The original was plated steel.

I bought 2-60" lengths of coated 5/16" steel line from NAPA which come complete with flared ends and brass male fittings each end. Bought 3 double female brass fittings as well, one for center connection, and one for both ends, i.e. fuel pump (which has a brass reducer) and tank. Also bought some rubber insulated clamps which will keep line snug and about 1/8" off frame. Will take photos once installed assuming all goes well. BTW, the dimension from back side of pump to tank outlet is about 107", so 120" of pipe should be about right and allow for the miscellaneous bends. Looking forward to installing

There will be a couple inch overlap with two 5 foot (60") pieces. Have made several sets from it as I put a filter between the two pieces. Hides in the frame so can't be easily seen.

Another issue Chipper. I now find the fittings on the coated lines are male standard thread but my tank outlet and the reducer coming out of the fuel pump are fine thread!, so back to supplier tomorrow to see what else I need in way of transition fittings to marry everything up. I planned to put the little filter that came with the electric fuel pump just in front of the original fuel pump as its fitting matches the pump inlet and I have a reducer fitting to take it up for the 5/16" line fitting. While not original it looks good in that spot.

I hope you bought 5/16' tubing and not 1/4". The original is 5/16". You need to cut off the flared end on tank and fuel pump ends. Can leave on other end as it will better hold rubber tubing for filter. Take off nuts and put on compression fittings which fit the tank and fuel pump fittings. You also need to use 5/16" filter and electric fuel pump if installing either or both of them.

I bought 5/16" tubing. I'll see what fittings are available tomorrow, and If I need to cut ends as you suggest so be it. The filter I have is the one that came with the electric pump I bought at FS, so I figure it is OK. Nothing is ever straight forward on these cars first time around, but after as many as you have done, you know ahead of time just what is needed!

Yup, As long as CRS disease doesn't raise its ugly head. Or my fat fingers don't miss the right key.

I installed my 6v pump just past the gas tank ( electric pumps push better than they pull ) The electric punp is plumbed to go through the original pump. I installed a seperate switch, so I can run it at will. I can run one or both pumps. It pumps through the original pump without any problems. When the key is off, the power to the pump is off.

Buckeye

Well, I finished installing the new fuel line today, and Al's pictures enabled me to be confident routing was proper. However, since I was using 2-5' lengths, with a center connection, I routed the line through the spring perch which makes an excellent looking job, and it is well protected. Way I see it, GM would have done it this way back in the day (may have even intended to do so), but they used a full length line which cannot be installed through perch, so they opted to go around it. I used rubber insulated clamps which get the line about 1/8" off the frame which will minimize dirt etc collecting behind the line. Decided to leave out filter for now (I have a paper one in original fuel bowl), but may install one later, a job made easier with the joint at center. Now I need to buy a length of 5/16" coated steel to replace the line from the pump to the carb, which is also copper now. Thanks again for everyone's advice, and the electric pump I will set aside for future use if ever necessary.

Hello Gunsmoke,
How much do you want for the 6v fuel pump? Just kidding. Just wanting to say hello. Now that I'm thinking about it, where did you buy the 6v fuel pump?

Bought it at the filling station, about $70. By the way, did you ever use that Trunk I sent you?

Hello Gunsmoke,
'Old Blue' and the trunk you sent are still in storage in an airport hangar a few miles from home/workshop. I'm wanting to read everything about your finished restoration before "I'll" do anything. That means you're the example, so, whats taking so long? Again, just kidding. My hands on and the dirty work that comes with it, are still somewhat down the road (time wise) that is. Until then I'm gathering knowledge from you and others on this site. Good luck with your 'Old Blue'.

Gunsmoke,

I recently purchased a new fuel line for my 30 four door sedan. I would like to use the rubber insulated clamps you mention in your post. Can you tell me where you got them ?

Thanks for all the good information on tis post - very helpful !

Bob W
Bloomsburg PA

I found mine at 2 different local specialty places, Diesel & Auto Electric, a company that specializes in vehicle electrical stuff, and at Trans World Distributing, a company that specializes in nuts and bolts etc. I expect if you seek out these types of businesses in your area they will have them. Mine were available in 1/8",1/4",3/8" and 1/2" sizes, (think I used 3/8"). Also used them to install my electrical harness.

Hello whitmoy,
Most well stocked hardware stores (like ACE) supply line clamps in various diameters. There are plastic, bare metal and metal with the rubber insulation. Usually, they are located in pull out trays near where the nuts and bolts are located. I took a look at my 31 Coach fuel line installation and noted that the line clamps are bare metal. They are of the diameter that when installed they are a tight fit on the line, so not subject to movement and wear. If you can take your fuel line with you or a drill bit of the same outer diameter as the line to the hardware store, you'll be able to select the correct diameter, eliminating any guesswork and return trips.

Try Lowes, Home Depot or Radio Shack. Nylon works just as well. Al W.

Thanks to all for the clamp sourcing information. I'll head to Ace for the friendly hardware man tomorrow.