VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 bad brakes?

I have never driven a car from the 40's Well I have checked the brakes everything seems fine. However they don't stop very well. Is this just how the brakes are? Compared to a new car it has no brakes.

Welcome to manual braking...It is a bit different from power brakes. You will learn to give a lot of room to the car ahead of you. If everything is adjusted correctly on your car, you'll see that the brakes are doing all they supposeed to do. be sure that there aren't grease or oil leaking from the wheel seals. I always give lots of room to the traffic ahead in case the car stops short.

kwchevy: I've got a 48 Fleetmaster, and, I agree with you. You have to drive very defensively with the braking systems these cars have. One thing I've wondered about - now that asbestos brake linings aren't available - is the replacement stuff less effective? Another thing to check - make sure the brake drums haven't been turned beyond the service limits, and, are now too thin.

Regards;
Oldengineer
48 Fleetmaster Town Sedan

That's why some folks switch to disc's up front...If you ever hit a large "puddle", you'll find out what "no brakes" feels like...You MUST drive defensively, in most accidents you'll be on the losing end...I don't believe modern linings are less effective...

Manual brakes, in good condition, will stop as good as power.
What you're not accustom to is pushing the pedal as firmly which is increasing your stopping distance.
If compared to a new car it feels like no brakes - something is drastically wrong.

If they passed a visual inspection, adjusting and flushing out the old fluid will help.
DOT 5 always resulted a 'spongy' pedal so I use DOT 3 - nice and firm.

Here an old ad from a late 50's catalog of performance enhancing miracle elixirs and sundries.
Anyone ever try these 'back in the day'?


brakead by 88burb, on Photobucket

I agree that the pedal pressure needed to lock up the wheels is more than modern power assisted brakes. It is not excessive and very achievable in a panic stop when the adrenaline kicks in. Even normal stops don't require excessive pedal pressure. All that assumes that the brake system is in decent repair.

I have slid all four wheels on my '28 Canopy Express with screeching tires and smoke too.

I can't vouch for the 28 but every thing else you said
Charlie

with my 48

too.....when I first started driving my 48, I was actually surprised at how well it stopped. Especially after hearing some pretty scary stories about "old drum brakes".

Make sure everything is in perfect working order, give yourself some extra room, and anticipate the worst.

Back then vehicles required skills to drive.

I will make sure that all the old fuild is out of the lines and I have good fuild.

What is the cheapest way to upgrade to disk brakes?

...Go to ebay and you'll find venders for disc set-ups...Or just "google" it...You'll soon know all about it...

...Back then...? It's still kinda hairy out there...! grin

The ones I was able to find are $1,800 there must be a way to do it for less.

My brakes have good pedal feel however I have to stand on them to get the car to stop. I'm going to see about adjusting them and hope that works.

Not much there to adjust...When I drive I'm thinking I'm getting some much needed exercise...You know, put some muscle back on them bean poles...Think Isometrics...grin

lol. I had to really push on them. I wish I knew how good they are when they are "good"

At least we must pay attention when we drive un-like "billions" of others..

Have you checked the pads for glazing, oil, or grease?
I can lock up my 40 brakes with a little heavy foot.
Also check drum for pits, groves, or brake shoes just being out of adjustment.

I'm going to check tonight. The car has sat for a very long time before I got it. I was told they worked when they parked it about 20 years ago.

Sand the brake drums to remove rust, lightly scuff the brake linings recognizing that they likely contain asbestos so a dust mask is a must. Check for contamination (oil, grease). As I stated before the original manual brakes will stop but require more pedal pressure than modern power assisted brakes.

I have one that will lock up if I push really really hard. I'm going to keep working on them.

I would bet that you have some wheel cylinders with stuck pistons. Very common with the Huck style brake.

If a wheel is locking up a wheel cylinder is probably leaking and getting on the shoes,it sounds like all the drums need to be pulled so all the brakes can be inspected before driving again.

Even if you have cylinders that are not leaking, some may be frozen and you will get very little or no braking from that wheel. If you rebuild all cylinders and shoes. You will be amazed. I was and it did not cost much. Grant