VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 '37 trunk handles Again!

Hey, everybody, sorry for the incomplete post! Mr. Nimblefingers, I ain't! As I said, both trunk handles spin round and round without engaging latch on both good car and parts car. Drove pin out of "barrel", disassembled and both locks seem to work. It seems there should be a part on the handle to engage the latch itself. Brings up some questions; (always questions!):
1. Am I missing a piece between handle and latch?
2. It apears that the barrel part of the handle (the part the pin goes thru) is cast inside of the handle. Is there anyway to remove this without breaking handle?
3. Handle itlelf is potmetal? Can this be welded or repaired?
It looks like best way on this is to be buy repro, but I hate to give up so easily! Thanks for help. slimT

I don'have my '39 here right now to look at but I believe that there is a square on the back of the handle and a plate ,held on by a nut on the end of the handle.

the two lock rods attach to the plate and when it turns the rods extend out past the lid locking the lid so it will not open .

I think you hit it right, there should be a part between the handle and the latch. Open the trunk and spin the handle. Is the entire length of the handle spinning?? Where is the latch mechanism in relation to the spinning handle? Try to find a way to attach the latch mechanism to the handle, keep in mind that a screw or even a plate may be missing. Put the handle back into the normal postion, hand part pointing down, and check to see if there is some way to connect the latch mechanism. The latch mechanism is two small "c" channel rails that extend from the center of the trunk left and right to the edge of the trunk. They connect in the center of the trunk, at the lock handle, to either side of a small plate. If you turn the plate, the rails slide toward the center of the trunk, allowing you to open the trunk. If you don't have the rails you can always just glue the handle in place, sorry just kidding...

Brian

The square on the back of the handle should fit into a square hole in the plate that the rods are attached to.A threaded stud will extend thru the plate so it can be permently attached with a nut.The plate should be enclosed in a little cage that is bolted to the inside of the lid.Look at end of handle>>>>is the threaded area broken off?????

sorry to be so long getting back on this one. appreciate the replies. I understand the latch mechanism and it works fine. With the trunk in open position, I can manually grab the "arm" going to either side and by pushing and then pulling, I can see the cam that the arms are attached to turning. And if I put the handle into the hole and operate key in lock (with the trunk lid open) the small square bar in end of handle slides down into slot in cam and "locks" the latch. This operates properly too. The problem seems to be that even when the handle is fully in place with the "square" end of bolt in the "square" hole and nut and keeper on the threaded end; the handle still turns freely 360 degrees or 720 degrees without engaging latch. Or in otherwords the outside handle turns round and round and round without the inside part moving. Both handles that I have here appear to be in good shape and latch is working properly. So, either my handles are both broken in spite of their good appearance, or I am missing a piece (spring,maybe?). Or, I am missing something very simple in operation! (Good possibility!). Thanks, Tim

Try removing the handle and using a screw driver or something to turn the latch.If locking mechanism works that way problem is with handle.Handle should never free wheel.Also key can be removed only when handle is in the locked position.If you were to clamp the square on the end of the handle in a vise would it be possible to turn the handle???.....Hang in there, we will get this solved

slimT, If necessary I can send you a copy of the parts picture of the complete assembly.Would have to be sent snailmail and would require your address.

Chevgene, that was what I needed to know! The light bulb finally went on! You said the handle should never freewheel and you are right! My handles are both in good shape, so I ASSUMED tht they were OK! I finally looked at a couple door handles I have and they are constructed the same way, except that the shaft rotates with the handle. They are NOT BROKEN! I also stuck the screwdriver thru the hole and was able to work the trunk latch just fine! So, I am convinced the problem is: both trunk handles are broken. For now, maybe will take bigbth advice and just glue 'em on! Thanks! Tim

Try to repair by drilling hole clear thru handle and shaft and drive pin thru,making sure its flush on the out side

After making last post I looked at some of the new handles I have.No, it will not be possible to drive a pin clear thru the shaft becuuse it is hollow and the lock shaft goes thru the center.If you can go thru just on side to anchor shaft to handle so it can't spin ??????

What exactly does your handle look like? I have a spare trunk handle that I thought was for a '38 master 4 door sedan but is not the same as the original one on my car. It does say on the box that it fits 38-40 coupe and is part number 4090230 but I do not trust that information. If you measure from the end of the threaded piece to the face of the key hole it is 3 3/4' long. From the Key hole to the end of the handle in a straight line is 4". The handle is squared, the '38 is more rounded, and there are three chevrons just below the key hole. If this is what you need let me know. If anyone knows what this is, let me know.

Brian

In the 1940 parts book the 4090230 handle is listed for 1937 to 1939 coupes.In the 1947 book the numbers have been changed and the number 4102368 covers all from 1937 thru EARLY 1940.This includes coupes and sedans.What they did thru the years is eliminate numbers and combine parts so it would be easier to stock.The items may not appear the same but will fit & function.Is the new handle you have genuine
chevrolet???? If it is,it will not have come with a lock cylinder and key.There were replacment handles made (non-genuine) that came with cyl. and keys.However the keys will not be the Briggs&Stratton key GM used but usually a gold key of the ILCO brand.I have one new handle like that with the three Chevrons.It also has the same measurement that you mention.I believe the Chevron design began in 1940.I also have a new genuine handle for a 1940.It is the later design '40 handle for cars with the single lock in the center rather than the rods that extend out to the body sides.It hase two larger chevrons and a much longer shaft.So in the case of the handles if it fits your in luck as it may not look proper but will do the job.((I believe that the correct '37 handle was some what teardrop shaped and the top part of the verticle portion of the handle extended slightly above the horizontal shaft.))

It looks to be after market. It comes with a lock but the keys are marked "Keil" and the key is not exactly the same as the GM key. It has a nice look to it but the handle is not the same as the other ones on the car.

That at explains why it is different than what I expected. If anyone needs an after market trunk handle with key lock, let me know.

thanks for offer of handle bigbth, I want to try chevgene's advice first. It won't be easy, but I think it might work. The '37 trunk handle is 3 3/4" from thread end to key end and also 3 3/4" from edge of lock cylinder hole to end of handle. The width of the handle tapers slightly down the length of the handle and it also curves in slightly (toward the trunk lid) at its end. It has a decorative "raised" dart about half the width of the handle and and also tapering as it goes toward end of handle. This "raised" decorative dart suddenly thins and comes to a point right near the lock cylinder. The number on the end of the "pot metal" (?) part is T-19485 on both and 9042 on end underneath the ferrule. I will work with these and see if I can fix them. After all, its just a trunk! So what if it flops up and down as I'm going down the road! Thanks for the help. Tim

slimT,You described the "37 handle well.If you wish to keep the car original I doubt that you would ever find a new handle.According to the parts book each year design was discontinued and replaced with the suceeding years handle.The '38 handle had a grove in the center filled with a red stripe. the '39 was simular but no red stripe and so on.Good luck on the repair

There is a '38 trunk handle on sale at e-bay, #1863491398.

Brian

Just wanted to update on this "simple" trunk handle repair! After you guys got me straight on HOW the trunk handle is supposed to operate, and I figured out that both of my handles were broken in spite of their good appearance; I decided to try Chevgene's idea on putting a "pin" thru the handle. As he said; you can't put pin all the way thru, as the inside is hollow, and a pin would interfere with the lock shaft. So, pulled everything apart, and measured thickness of the handle wall, and thickness of the lock barrel; set my drill depth to just a fraction less than the total thickness (about 5/32") and drilled a 1/16" dia hole on each side of handle about 1/4" from end. Then drove in a 1/16" dia finish nail, cut it off, and ground it down. You can hardly see repair, and it will be inside the ferrule anyhow! Now, for the first time in 25 yrs., my trunk latch works perfect! A small step, but a very satisfying one! Thanks for advice! Couldn't have done it without ya!
Raises the question, though. How did Chevy make these handles? Was the "pot metal" handle poured around the lock barrel, as you wouldn't be able to get handle apart to replace a faulty lock cylinder. Must be you would have replaced whole trunk handle or door handle and had to use two different keys then?
Tim

The new door and trunk handles came with no lock cylinder.The cyl. is removed by driving out the pin that goes thru the handle shaft.(off set to one side-not thru center)That way you could use the old cyl. & keys or code a new cyl. to match the old key as the cyl. came with no tumblers.Only after-market handles came with cyl. & keys.