VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Change A Camshaft Timing Gear.

How hard is it to remove a camshaft from a 1947 fleetline 216? It's pretty clear the radiator and grill need to come out but what other issues will I be dealing with.

It will also be necessary to drop the pan in order to get to the two bolts down below. Obviously the engine front cover will have to be removed.

The radiator must be removed but not the grille if I remember correctly.

Regarding replacement parts, is it recommended I change the gear and thrust plate only, or is there other parts to be changed while I'm in there?

I noticed chevs of the 40's sells the gears as a matched aluminum set including the crank and camshaft gears.
Filling station sells the fiber camshaft gear by itself.

Which route do you guys recommend. I want to place the order but don't want to forget anything.

Both gears should be replaced. The aluminum gear was used in large trucks and makes more gear noise. A new fiber gear will last for at least 100,000 miles if it gets lubricated properly.

As well as Rays suggestion it will be neccessary to remove the cam followers, valve gear and distributor. I would replace both gears as a pair.
If the gears have the teeth cut parrellel to the shaft the alloy will be noisey but the angled gears there isnt much difference.
Tony

Just curious, will the gear fail with age only? Say it only hase 20,000 miles but is 60 years old.

Would be OK as long as it was getting oiled.

As Gene mentioned lubrication is the big issue with either type gear.
Tony

I'm now at the point where the timing cover is off, oil pan is off, valve cover off, distributor off. I've been reading the manual but most of the time you guys make it easier for me to understand.

I need some more detail leading up to and including removing the camshaft (cam followers, valve gear.) I understand there are two retaining screws behind the gear, but that's where all my info stops.

Remove the valve lifters (cam followers) and put them back in the same holes when that time comes. They should just lift out.
To remove the camshaft position the two holes in the fiber gear so the bolts heads can be seen - and bolts removed. Then remove the camshaft. The fuel pump must be removed.
A puller is necesssary to remove the steel gear on the crankshaft.
There are several hex bolts and slotted screws that hold the front mounting plate to the block. They are of several different lengths so take note.

I think Gene was typing faster than his thoughts. The cam is retained by two screws. They may be "staked" and need attention to remove.

The two bolts that hold the cam retainer plate in place have lock washers and are not staked. The flat headed screws that hold the front mouning plate to the block are staked.
I believe this is correct.

Gene,
I have found the cam removal to be as you describe.

Okay I'm testing patience right now...

In order to remove the valve lifters (cam followers) does the rocker arm assembly have to be removed first?

The simple answer is yes. It can be done without removing the rocker arms and shafts if you can free the push rods by pushing down on the pushrod and sliding the rocker sidewise when the ball is free from the socket. Takes too much effort for me unless it is only one lifter that needs to be replaced.

All that is necessary to remove the rocker arms is remove the four bolts and two nuts the hold the rocker arm assembly to the head.
This is a simple 5 minute job. Either way the valves will require adjusting when done.
If an intake valve hit a piston when the gear "went" you may also need to remove the head and have some valves replaced.

FYI you can get a cam gear through your local parts jobber cheaper than buying one on line. $39 at O'Reilly + no shipping.

I bought one locally, thanks.

Rocker arm assembly is out, on to the next step!

At this point the head is still off at the machine shop.
My question now is reinstalling the camshaft in regards to lining up the marks on the new gears? I replaced the camshaft gear and the crankshaft gear, the camshaft gear is now aluminum that came with a new crankshaft gear.

With the #1 piston all the way up is that also "top dead center" or can the #1 piston be all the way up but not at top dead center?

Do I have this next part correct. With the #1 piston all the way up... I then install the camshaft so that the marks on the gears line up?

Thanks for all your patience guys

The camshaft and crank gears are mated based on the two marks. It doesn't make any difference where the pistons are located during this procedure. When you place the timing cover on the engine you will not see or use those marks again.

Dont worry about where the pistons are, make sure the marks on both gears are together (correctly fitted they line up every second rotation of the crank). As Ray said when everything is assembled and in the car these marks are not seen.
Tony

The above advice is "right on."

I think that when you mate the cam and crank gear marks at their closest point, the crank journals will cause the pistons of number 1 and 6 to be at TDC. I don't think they can be in any other position.

Just make sure that no matter the position you place the cam in that its mark mates with the crank's gear mark when they are rotated to their closest point.

BTW: I blew my 41's 216 cam gear, also. About three years ago while late and running around 60 mph. I'm running a spare, rebuilt 41 216 engine now. Don't know if I'll ever get around to repairing ("fixing" in southeastern OH) the original engine or not. Probably not 'cause it's still sitting undisturbed. I'm not too keen on the idea of running a 216 instead of a 235 or 261 in a car that will never be judged.

Good luck with yours,
Charlie