Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Feb 2012
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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pineapple
OK here we go
I know that this has been covered tons of times, but I have these leakey front suspension knee action shocks on my 37MD 2dr sedan. Where can I find a rebuild kit Any help would be appreciated!!!
Thanks
Ray


Ray P
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I don't have a knee action front end but I get the impression that after a certain amount of wear, no simple kit will do the job. There are shops that can rebuild them probably better than new.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Hello Ray,

There are two (2) things you can check. One (1)...... there is a cap on the inside of the knee action that is inline with the spindle arm. With a large channel lock pliers you can twist it off (it's not threaded) and see if it has the original needle bearings. If it looks like this, you have a problem.......
[Linked Image from i1238.photobucket.com]

If it looks like this, it's been rebuilt.....

[Linked Image from i1238.photobucket.com]

Now look at the spindle arm. On the arm, where it passes thru the knee action body, is a nut. See if there is a gap between the arm and the knee action body. If there is, try to turn the nut towards the body. If it will turn it will compress the packing rope underneath it and it may stop or at least slow down the leak until it can be fixed.
If you send me your e-mail address, I can send you the info that Chevgene sent me when I was asking about mine.
good luck with your adventure,


Dave
old cars are meant to be driven !!
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Hi Dave
My email address is hefay1942@gmail.com
When I refilled my shocks the other day I couldn't believe how fast it drained back out!! Did you solve a similar problem in your car?

Thanks for any advice!!!
Ray


Ray P
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Hello Ray, I don't know if I have because it's still up on jack stands with a clutch issue. Chevegene had told me it will leak if suspended so i have to wait until it's on the ground. ( I'll be posting that with pics as a new topic.)

BTW....... sent you an e-mail with the info I received from Chevegene.


Dave
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"Now look at the spindle arm. On the arm, where it passes thru the knee action body, is a nut. See if there is a gap between the arm and the knee action body. If there is, try to turn the nut towards the body."

Before you try turning the packing nut, which by the way requires a LARGE, THIN wrench, you'll have to feel around the nut & locate and loosen the square-headed set screw that locks the packing nut in position.


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Bowtie Bob,
I forgot about the set nut, thank you. But I did use large channel lock pliers, blue point brand, that I bought from Snap-On Tools when I worked for my Dad. There was plenty of space to use it. But that doesn't mean that cars other than my own would have the same amount of room so whatever tool fits will do the job.


Dave
old cars are meant to be driven !!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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https://vccachat.org/images/icons/default/Frustration.gif
Hi again
I did get the info re repacking the knees via email, thanks!!
Now I would like to know what steps it took for you to get the 2 pics of the two ends of the shaft onto your post? I just can't figure it out, DUH!!
Can you help?
Thanks
Ray


Ray P
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Hello Ray,
I'll send you an e-mail about how I do it.


Dave
old cars are meant to be driven !!
VCCA # 047832

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