Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Pat S Offline OP
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When you prime the ngine with a drill, is there enough speed there to register on the oil pressure gauge?


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Hi Pat S,

I would think there should be, your not going in reverse are you?

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Ray


Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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Yes. Only takes an hundred rpm or so to produce pressure if the pump is working properly. Make sure you are spinning the pump the proper direction (normally clockwise).


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Pat S Offline OP
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I am not likely going in reverse as I get oil coming at the rocker arms. It is just that I can't see the gauge on the other side. I'll get a helper next time to do either the spinning or the looking.

Thanks, guys


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Chipper,
Dang! I would have thought counter clockwise. I learn something new all the time here on chatter.

Tell me, though, If a rebuild has been properly assembled, i.e., lubricated at rub points, bearings, etc, and given the immediate response of the oil pump at point of cranking, is the subject pre-lube even necessary? Always seemed to be a waste of time to me. Maybe in the long run a few more miles could be realized between overhauls but probably an unmeasurable amount and little advantage. It just seems to me that the engine would be safe from any harm running for a few seconds on the reassembly lubes.

Charlie computer

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imsorry Charlie, here you go again, always learning new things. The drill needs to turn clockwise...that is clockwise! devildance

You probably have the engine ok if you brought oil up to the rocker arms, now you need to get the oil pump and distributor in sync and gitter runnin"


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Pat S Offline OP
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Just picked up the ignition parts suggested by P.U.Guy in the 6 volt forum. One of these days it should run out of reasons not to start.


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Pat
If you have oil flowing at the rockers there is oil pressure throughout the system as the rockers are the last parts to get oil pressure.
Tony


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Originally Posted by 41specialdeluxe
Chipper,
Dang! I would have thought counter clockwise. I learn something new all the time here on chatter.

Tell me, though, If a rebuild has been properly assembled, i.e., lubricated at rub points, bearings, etc, and given the immediate response of the oil pump at point of cranking, is the subject pre-lube even necessary? Always seemed to be a waste of time to me. Maybe in the long run a few more miles could be realized between overhauls but probably an unmeasurable amount and little advantage. It just seems to me that the engine would be safe from any harm running for a few seconds on the reassembly lubes.

Charlie computer

Charlie,

For me it depends on the engine type and how long it's been since the rebuild has been completed. If the engine is freshly assembled and full-pressure lubricated, I probably wouldn't bother pre-lubing. If, however, the engine was done and put away at the start of what turned out to be a longer than expected restoration, I would pre-lube, just as I would when trying to start an original car that's been sitting for a long time. Also, I prefer to pre-lube engines like the 216 and earlier sixes, making it a point to run the pump fast enough and long enough to guarantee that the dipper troughs are full of oil -- it's better not to take the chance of running those brand-new poured rod bearings dry during the first 50 or 100 revolutions!


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I have always primed the system, whether a small block or a stovebolt 6, or anything for that matter. When you've come this far, its a great feeling to know the pump is working, the filter is full, and the oil is finding its way to all the proper places. Its actually kind of rewarding to see this part in action before first start up.

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YEA MAN !!!

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Like Oreo I like to have oil pressure for a bit before the initial start. With the engines where the oil pump drive is not accessible I fill the sump via a hand pump connected the the pressure sender fitting.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire

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