Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#242363 05/08/12 09:35 PM
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31rob55 Offline OP
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I know an original part - even with "patina" - would be preferred over a reproduction. But when does "too much patina" (rust, pits, scratches) justify a repop? And please address too the fact that some 'reproductions' available are just cheap imitations.

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Rob,

Heck fire! Who knows. Depends on the judge and his interpretation of the rule/guide book, I suppose. Up front, I'll admit that I don't know much about it.

I suppose that the time to go for the reproduction, is when the original is causing more point reduction than the repo. I think some reproduce items are just as good as the original but some are way off the mark. For instance, some 55-56 and 57 stuff may be as good as the original. Maybe the emblems?

I think you have posed an interesting question. I hope others will join in.
Charlie ("view more smiles" is down)


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Rob,

I think there's another value in the equation. It is whether the damaged original is "fixable" for lack of a better word. I went through the same dilemma lately with my door handles and widow cranks. Rechroming seems to be twice the cost of repops however many people have mentioned here that repops, while looking good, don't always fit.

If you don't mind spending money at the post office, maybe try the repops first, if they don't fit which is worse than being slightly different, then return them and get the original repaired. Just my two cents.


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Rob, what is the specific part that you speak of chevy?


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31rob55 Offline OP
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It was more a general question. There are several parts I'm wondering about.

A good example is the window cranks - pitted. A little elbow grease and a coat of wax and they look OK, but definitely not great. Re-chromed, they'd still be "pitted". Nice repops can be had for about the same cost of re-chrome, but then the door handles would look "old".

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Rob,

So there are many factors to think about when restoring a car and answering your question. The first one would be, what are you trying to do with the car? Are you making a nice driver or are you going for judging? This is where you start. Next are you going for judging at a local VCCA meet only or are you going to try and play with the BIG dog's at a Anniversary meet?

The next question is, are the re-pop'ed parts even right? Like Pat said, they may not fit, but they may not even be right for the application. Let’s talk handles since we are on that topic and Pat and I know 34's and I know 31's/32's. Back in the 80's I&I made the 34 window and door handles which looked correct, but would not work correctly. Meaning that would not clip on the post. I figured out how to modify these handles to make them work and look great on my car, no one would ever know. Also the knobs on the window handles had to be changed since they were plastic starting in 34 where the re-pop'ed parts where chrome. Now if I would not have been able to find these I would have replated handles. The reason I would not have bought the current re-pop's, since I&I does not make them anymore. The new re-pop's which the Filling Station sells are really copies of the 31/32 handle and are not the same as 34. So what I'm trying to say, you really need to know your car and what’s right and wrong before you by a re-pop'ed part. Many of the reproduction guys list things for many years which are really only for one year.

So my feeling when you can get something that is right, buy it even if you need to work with it some. If the part is not close at all....don't buy it and work with your original parts. You might also have a problem with the platers changing the size of the parts. Your always taking a risk in what you do.

Bruce


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31rob55 Offline OP
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How about hood latches?
The chrome on my candy canes is long gone. They function fine. One spring is a little weak; the socket-bracket thingy is almost worn through on two.
Re-chrome or repop? Same cost.

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31rob55 Offline OP
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and... p.s.
This "Driver" vs. "Judging" question has me bothered.
I have four classic cars, and I drive them all. That's what they were made for, right? And I like to show them, too.
I own a trailer, but I only use it when I'm going more than 100-miles away.

My goal in this restoration is to get this car as close to original as I can.
But I'm going to drive it.

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Well that is a hard one Rob...your almost to the point of getting the repop parts here. They will fix your problem of worn out parts. Also the hood latches are really nice from what I remember.


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I like Bruce's logic about carefully selecting repo parts that are really accurate. I also like to keep with original(even if re-plating is needed)because over time the historical originality will out weigh the easy fix of using repo replacements. I just find it more satisfying to have the real deal that was made "back in the day" whenever possible and practical. Of course driving a well done vintage car is the tops. Jim

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I have seen several cars over the years that when the owner first purchased them they drove them and had a ball. After restoration they do not drive them more that from the trailer to the judging field. Many times at meets you can only see them on the judging field. The rest of the time they are in their trailer.

I remember one time an owner asked me If I could show him how to do something on his car. I had to work on it in his trailer. They did not drive the car on the tour the day after judging.

I drive mine as much as possible. I have over 40,000 miles on one of ours after restoration.

To each his own.


See you Touring the Back Roads

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Back Roads iagree I wouldn't know how to haul a trailer any way


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