VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 steering gear 37 MD GUNK

Hi there
While I removed and tore down the steering gear/box on my 37 MD I noticed lots of junk in the box. I am waiting for parts to rebuild the box. I noticed alot of difference between the OD of the steering shaft and the ID of the adjustment "sleeve" for eliminating worm shaft end play. This would allow "junk" to enter the sleeve and find it's way into the upper worm bearing and then into the gear housing!! Does anyone have a solution for this probable problem, or am I mistaken?
Thanks
Ray

I can't answer your question but I have a question for you......do you think the pitman shaft seal can be removed without completely disassembling the steering box?? ( I have a '37 MD 4dr) I would like to replace the seal for now and have the box rebuilt in the off season.

Hi Dave
I have my gear/box out of the car and just took a look to see if it would be possible to replace the seal with the shaft still in the box. I think it would be possible but so much easier with the shaft out. That way you could press the seal and bushings out and press the new ones in. I don't think I would try it!! It would take alot of patience and alot of digging with a small tool to get the seal out. Good luck and let me know.
Ray

Can you tell me if it is a metal incased seal (like an axle seal) or a rope style seal??

Hi again
The seal is metal encased, the original one was cork, and the one I got with the rebuild kit is metal cased rubber. If you pull the pitman arm, which you will have to do in order to get at the seal,you will be able to see the edge of the metal part of the seal. I suppose with alittle work and a few !@#$%%^'s you could dig/pry the seal out.
Ain't this fun??
Good luck
Ray

If it is anything like the 38, the difference between ID and OD is not that great and that in itself would make replacement with the shaft in place, difficult.

I'll take your advice and wait for the off season to fix it.

Ray, Was removing the steering box and shaft difficult??

not too bad!! You need to use a puller to remove the pitman arm, then a puller for the steering wheel, then remove the dash mount U bolt, disconnect the horn wire where it comes out of the shaft jacket, then the two housing mount bolts. After that I was able to lift the gear and manuver the whole thing (housing, pitman shaft, steering col and jacket) all in one piece, forward and up until the whole gizmo ended up on my workbench. It gets alittle dicey but make sure you protect the fender because there isn't much clearance!! I'm kind of a rookie at this, but if I did it probably You could too!! I'm thinking that after the rebuild, sliding the assembly back in will be just as much of a challenge!! Good Luck, Have at it. Let me know how it goes
Ray

Thanks for the info Ray. Waiting on UPS (should be here anytime now) to deliver my latest purchase from Co40's so I can finish up on my '37 MD 4dr and get it on the road. It's a basic car with no frills or bling. I'll post a pic when the plates go on.

Hey Dave
Don't know if you have one, but the 1937 Chevy Shop Manual really spells out in great detail alot of great stuff incl the steering gear adjustments and repair stuff. Just FYI
Good Juck
Ray

Yes, as a matter of fact, I have a couple. I followed the adjust procedure and cured most of the ills but I think from so many years of no lubricant that the gear and balls are worn to the point of replacement.

There are somethings that the book don't tell you that only experience can. So I thought I would ask about your hands on experience as you had just torn yours apart. (these procedures were wrighten when these cars were new.)

So thank you for your input.

Hey Dave
Well I got the steering gear rebuilt and back in my 37MD, filled it back up with 85-140 gear lube and so far the lube is staying in he box!!! Thats a good start I would guess!! Next test will be to get her down off the jacks and go on a short cruise to see how the steering acts.
How is your project going?
Remain cool
Ray

Hello Ray,
Had a minor problem installing the new m/c. The original m/c had shims under the left front mount point, so when I installed the new one everything had shifted to the right and the pedals would not line up. Pulled it back out and tried to see what the difference was.
As you may surmise, the new m/c didn't need the shims and everything lined up.
With that done i started to adjust the clutch only to discover that there were problems in the bell housing which i just recently posted ('37 MD clutch fork).
So it's going.......slower than i expected, but going.