VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 clutch

Hi my name is Benny and I have a problem with my chevy 1926 model V . I changed the clutch plate and release bearing to a new edition that I ordered from fillingstation. After I assembled the clutch and replaced the release bearing and took away the ring that lay on top of the fingers on the pressure plate which should be done according to the accompanying description from fillingstation. My problem is that the fingers are almost att the bottom with the result that the link is not working as it should . Does anyone have an idea what could be wrong.Benny

Sounds like the clutch plate linings are too thick,causing the release levers to move to far toward the clutch plate hub.If this is the case,you won't be able to release the clutch and change gears.The original clutch plate lining rings are 1/8" thick,9" outside diameter and 6 1/4" inside diameter.
Another possible cause is that the clutch steel segment offset is also to great,though this should compress when the clutch plate is clamped between the pressure plate.

If I understand you correctly,

Are you sure you aligned the 3 peg's in the flywheel with the 3 slots in the pressure plate???

If not the pressure plate will not go all the way down and the fingers will remain at the bottom, the bearing sleeve will remain all the way into the pressure plate and the pedal will go all the way down and not return up.

If all is correct, you should have about 1/4" between the sleeve and the face of the pressure plate

If he didn't get the 3 slots & pegs lined up(the pressure plate assy only goes on one way) and tried to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel,he'd more than likely crack the pressure plate cover and be attacked by the springs as they flew everywhere.

when I got my car, the springs compressed enough to bolt tight but would not return to the pressure position, there was enough room without breaking, I agree, he was lucky he didn't have "springs for dinner"

good point!!

I ran into the same problem, exactly. I hope the problem has a different fault, but as it turned out, the carbon bearing I received was for a 27, which has a different I.D. and piloting scheme. I posted picture a while back, I will try to track down the post, or you can search for my prior postings. The way to tell the difference is simple: if the faceplate that pushes the bearing has a flange, that is, if the bearing is trapped by the flange, it is a later (27 and up) actuator. 26 had no flange, just a flat surface; the carbon bearing is a slip-fit on the trans-shaft.

Found the post: # 231511 on 1/20/12. lots of info, see pics,
Good luck!

Here is the earlier series of posting by 3rdowner.
https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/231511/Throwout_Bearing_woes#Post231511