VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Water pump removal

I have a '35 Std coach that I am just getting running. It starts and runs but quickly overheats. Would like to check the water pump thrust washers as pump is noisy but cannot get it off without hitting radiator. Doesn't look like I can get the fan off either. Is there a way to get it out without removing radiator? Will eventually remove radiator but did not want to tackle that job just yet. Any help

On my 1934 Master which has about the same set up I remove the fan first.Its a little "tight" to get at the fan bolts but with the correct wrench it can be done.
To remove the radiator its necessary to remove the grille sell, etc., which is no small job.You sure don't want to do that.
When you remove the pump be sure to check that the round baffle is tight in the block - behind the water pump.
I would suspect that the over heating is probably caused by a plugged-up radiator core.If you remove the upper and lower hoses and, using your garden hose, force water into the upper radiator hose connection the water should emty out thru the lower hose connection almost as fast as it goes in.
Note that the 1935 water pump fits 1935 only, how ever they are not difficult to find new.

Thanks Gene, You are always a good source of information. By the way, would you have the paint and trim codes for the 35 Standard. The numbers on the cowl tag are:

Style NO 35-1201A

Body J 9499

Trim 46

Paint 186

The car is all original has has never been painted that I can tell. The fenders are black, the body is green (I assume Pinehurst Green) Wheels appear to be tan.

Thanks.

35-1201-A is a 1935 Standard coach (2 door)

Body number indicates the body was made here in Wisconsinn-Janesville-9499 is a production sequence number...The serial number would then indicate the car was assembled in Janesville also.Common for northern Ill. cars.Serial number was on the plate nailed to the floor,just inside the right door.

Trim 46 is the normal brown mohair interior...no other options for the Standard series.

Paint 186 is Pinehurst green, a dark green.The wheels would have been black with cream medium optional.All the info I have indicates that 1935 Standards came with body color fenders but I have also seen them with black fenders so I am not sure here.In 1934 the fenders were black enamel with body colored fenders in lacquer optional.
The cream medium wheels tended to turn tan in their old age.

My one booklet by Chevrolet ("Chevrolet presents its complete line of cars for 1934") shows both black fenders and body color and one 3 window coupe with dark gray fenders and body a lighter gray with a dark gray (same as fenders) top. Note all the cars shown are Masters. In 1935 the Sedan Delievery was made on the Standard Chassis and it came with black fenders standard.

Mortonbow tie
Another trick to save pulling radiator is to remove top hose of thermostat housing and direct it away from any electrics (spark plugs generator in particular) remove the bottom hose from the water pump and put the garden hose and a controlled compressed air hose in and temporarily seal this in leaving the top hose open.
Turn the water on and when water flows out top hose give the compressed air a series of short squirts. This indicates flow and the forced air will loosen most of the rubbish collected in the radiator tubes.
The water will most likely flow a shade of brown at first the clear up when clean. If this dont clear it the next is remove radiator and have it rod cleaned.
Tony

MTB

You CAN remove the water pump without removing the front clip. I have done this many times on one or the other of the 35 STD's I have owned.

To make the process a bit easier you can unbolt the top radiator support bracket, remove the top radiator hose and with a little pressure, the top of the radiator shell can be tilted sligtly forward away from the radiator. The fan is tricky to remove. I use an offset box wrench. Get it on the bolt and spin the fan(by hand) to loosen and tighten bolts. The fan should just slip out between the core and end of the pump shaft. At reassembly if there is exrta length on the waterpump shaft that extends beyond the fan hub this can be ground off for more clearance. Only enough shaft length is needed to center the fan on the shaft. Also shorter bolts can be used, but not too short. The bolts are not 90 degrees apart so alighning the holes can be a bit tricky "working blind", so to speak.

Believe it or not the radiator can also be removed from the chassis with out removing the front clip and I have done this a few times in antiquity. The front clip removal is probably the easiest way to go but not the only way.

OOPs! Tilting the radiator shell forward moves the radiator away from the pump. Mea culpa

Thanks to everyone, I tried the radiator flush process. The water flushed out quite a bit and the air blast shook loose some more. It will idle for extended time at 180 (the thermostat temp). Will remove the pump when I get a replacement but will leave the radiator in place for now.

Thanks again.