VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1926 chevrolet superior k

I am the third generation owner of my families' 1926 chevrolet which was bought new by my grandfather in 1926. My dad, who passed away in 2008, let me drive it often. I have been having over heating problems with it. I noticed when trying to move the spark lever that the rod that connected it to the distributor did not move the lever on the ditributor. I finally got loosened it so that it moves as you operated the lever. It's been awhile since I have driven it, almost 20 years due to a transmission leak which I have repaired. I had a real hard time as a young person trying to remember where the spark lever should when running the car. the distributor turns clockwise and when you push the lever down it advances the spark? and when you lift the lever you retard the spark? So when starting the car you push the lever down to start and up to run? I am really confused! And this be the cause of my over heating problems?

Running an engine with retarded spark is one of the many causes of over heating.

Hi John,
Up to start (retard) and when she fires, move it down (advance) until it runs smoothly and feels lively. Throttle lever is up for slow and down to increase. It would be a good idea to use a white pen to mark the quadrant, "R" and "A" until you remember.

Regards
Al

Gidday Fellas,

Chipper can you explain a little more please if you don't mind.

On my 28" I have it down to start and then flick it straight up once running. ... Y/N or am I doing something wrong for long term damage, it starts fine this like this to BTW and I run the long thread 3077 plugs, but to be honest I have not had it out on the road for a decent long run as yet, just around the block a few times but the overheating you talk about is not what I wanted to here...

I think I have it around the wrong way then :)

CORRECTION Sorry, but to answer my own question, it could be the difference between a 26 and 28 because I know I am doing it correct as per the manual, thanks for your time...

Monty,

Not sure what required more explanation. If you run an engine with retarded timing it is prone to overheat. That is one of many things that can contribute to overheating. Like crud in the radiator. Or impeller corroded on water pump. Or air entrained in the coolant. There are many more.

Thank you all for your replies. When the lever is up the lever on the distributor is moves towards the block. When you push the lever down the lever on the distributor moves away from the block. This lever on the ditrbutor was stuck until I freed it up today. When I pull or push the lever on the column the lever on the distrbutor does not move the full distance. I have to manually coax it with a few taps with a piece of wood. How far should this move. The rod that goes between #2 & #3 cylinders flexs not putting enough pressure move it back. So with the lever up the engine slows down. With lever down if speeds up. Sounds like it running too fast.
If my deceased Dad were alive I would be told that "I was a dumb F#$king kid." At 58!
John

When you advance the timing the idle smoothes out and speed increases if the distributor is properly timed.

When starting the car, the owners manual instructs the driver to set the spark lever all the way up to full retard and then set the accelerator lever at least 3/4 down. As soon as the engine starts you kind of reverse positions of the two levers. You advance the timing lever down and move the accelerator lever up until you achieve a good idle speed. I have a small wooden wedge that I can place in the accelerator to set the idle since it has a tendency to slip out of place and allow the idle to drop to the point of killing the engine. A lazy solution but it works.

Monty
On my 28, advance is up, retard is down, it was the same on my US imported coach as well, and my 27 I had for years.
I reckon yours is right. ie at least on 28's
Chris

If you have a '26 engine,the distributor is a REMY Model 374-A.With this type of distributor,when you advance or retard the spark,the whole breaker points plate moves.
If you remove the distributor cap,and have someone crank the engine by hand(ignition off),you will see that the rotor will be turning in a clockwise direction.To retard the spark,the breaker plate has to be moved in the same direction as the rotor turns.This will give the firing point of top dead centre,fully retarded.To advance the spark timing,the breaker plate must be moved in an anti-clockwise direction.This movement is limited to give 30 degrees full spark advance.Have someone move the lever for you,and see which way the breaker plate moves in relation to the rotation of the rotor button.
Unless the advance/retard levers work opposite on U.S. built cars,on Australian cars the lever is pulled down for retard,and pushed all the way up for full advance.Be aware,that as the spark timing is fully manual,you should adjust it to suit your driving conditions.But don't forget fully retarded for safe starting!,& full advance for normal driving speeds.

Gidday Fellas,

Chris - thanks for clearing that up, I thought I was right this morning after reading the post which sort of through me off a little as they were saying it all back to front...

Kevin - Well explained once again mate, ole Monty is running very sweet and starts easily has it always has done, just needs a bloody good long drive which is not to far away...

Thanks once again you to and I hope your Easter was enjoyable

Sorry for the "Edit" but I have to correct my sh#tty spelling -

Sorry for the confusion. I guess things in Oz really are upside down.

Gidday Fellas,

Dansker, being rather new to these old car I get confused easily, you had my thinking harder than normal with your post but now all sorted.... To easy and best of luck with the car mate

First I want to thanks those of you who helpedwith my overheating problem and the spark advance soloutions. I have finally imprinted it into my brain where the lever should be when staring and running. Took the suggestion of one individual to take off the distributor cap and see which way the points plate turned. Got it! The overheating problem was solved by putting a baffle behind the water pump as there wasn't one there when I removed it.

New problem: Not really a problem but more of a concern. My Father once showed me the valve assembly under the valve covers. Covering the assembly appears to be an oil sooked pad. I am assuming that the oiling system does not include the valve train? Therefore I must oil the pad? Oil the valves? How much? Should the pad be soaked in oil?

Hopefully, weather permitting, I will be showing the car tomorrow for first time in 30 years.

Thanks,
John

The pad is kept oiled as it provides lubrication of the valve train. It is best to buy a reprint of the Owner's Manual. They can be purchased from many suppliers including the Filling Station. Or you can download the '28 manual from the http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyowner/28cimindex.htm website.

Thanks Chipper, I have both manuals for 1925 and now 1928. I have completely gone over each one carefully and could not find even a mention of valve train lubrication. I even have a hard copy of "Insructions For Operation And Care Of Chevrolet Motor Cars." For Four Ninety and Superior Models. Nothing in that book either.

Well I will stay on the safe side and keep it well oiled.

Thanks,
John

Page 39 of the '28 Repair Manual states to keep the felt saturated with oil. Generally a few drops of oil once a day or every 50-100 miles is all that is required.

I always take my rocker cover off and completely soak the felt pad. There is no such thing as too much oil as it eventually ends up in the sump (on a 28) or the ground on a 26.
Chris