Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#235760 02/29/12 08:16 PM
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Tiny Offline OP
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Just got my 216 back from the builder. A good coat of the correct paint and she's ready to stick.

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Wish mine was ready to go back in, mine isn't out yet. Pulling sheetmetal in a few days and then hopefully the motor. cool


Gary
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I just pulled the fenders, radiator and radiator housing off of my 37 Chevy PU. Next the cab. I am new at restoring - is $1500.00 a good price for rebuilding a 1937 216 engine?

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Tiny,
did you ever deduce where the knock was coming from?


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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To me, $1,500 would seem to be a very reasonable price for a rebuild.
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I would hope the quality of the work is better than the cleaning effort.
Tony


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seems a little low . frank

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Tiny Offline OP
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Originally Posted by 37chevyPU
I just pulled the fenders, radiator and radiator housing off of my 37 Chevy PU. Next the cab. I am new at restoring - is $1500.00 a good price for rebuilding a 1937 216 engine?
You'll have more than $1500 just in parts. So far I have about $3200 invested for the rebuild kit ($1000), rods machined for inserts $460, valves $200 and the actual engine work (valve job, boring, assembly, etc.) $1500. I have yet to get or pay the bill for pulling, painting and sticking the engine.

Last edited by Tiny; 03/01/12 10:17 AM.

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Originally Posted by old216
Tiny,
did you ever deduce where the knock was coming from?
It turned out to be a wrist pin.


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Originally Posted by tonyw
I would hope the quality of the work is better than the cleaning effort.
Tony
It's pretty clean Tony, just some surface rust.


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Originally Posted by 37chevyPU
I just pulled the fenders, radiator and radiator housing off of my 37 Chevy PU. Next the cab. I am new at restoring - is $1500.00 a good price for rebuilding a 1937 216 engine?

There are many ways to *rebuild* an engine starting from a new set of piston rings new gaskets and a tin of paint monkey to a proper rebuild lets say the way Tiny is doing that should be a total of about $4000 and even double that if you need extras like full pressure lubrication and precision balancing etc drool .
Quality parts should already cost more as $ 1500 so I am not sure what kind of rebuild they are going to do with your 216!!! newangel

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Brings to mind days past...When I did a 235 Short Block Exchange at a local shop for $425...it was in the late '70's...someone's probably still driving that truck today...


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Originally Posted by Tiny
Originally Posted by old216
Tiny,
did you ever deduce where the knock was coming from?
It turned out to be a wrist pin.


Have a sneaking suspicion that's where my "noise" is coming from....Hmmmm ... Can we compare notes...? Mine is a "clear" knock...sounds like "clock"...like ball-peen on steel...not loud ... only at idle and not consistent...8-900 rpm and up and it's gone...excuse me for high-jacking this "thread"...Kevin


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I agree on the price of the parts but that should not be the deciding factor when rebuilding. If an engine is torn down and inspection shows the block and pistons are within acceptable limits then re-ringing, adjusting the bearings, new gaskets, a valve job, and a can of overhaul(paint) can extend the satisfactory life of the engine for the limited use most restorers will subject their cars to. The cars of the 30's thru early 50's were probably good for 60-80,000 miles and probably most of us won't put on that kind of mileage after restoring. It may not be true for all but if you look around on your next tour with a car of that vintage I would guess more than 75% will be over the age of 65!!


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Tiny Offline OP
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My knock was on cold start and would go away as the engine warmed.


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Thanks all for the feedback. I will contact the rebuilder and ask more questions concerning the extent of the rebuild, parts and final cost.

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Tiny, I know you told us but, it has been more than a few hours for me,so,refresh my memory. What's this out of?


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The '38 coupe shown as my avatar. You can get a closer look by clicking the links in my signature.


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Wrist pin knock is common for the old Chevys. I don't ever recall one leading to failure just getting a bit noisier with time and miles. I've had several (don't remember any specifically) over the years and never even considered "fixing" them. It was a "if it keeps running, drive it" situation particularly when funds were non-existent or nearly so.

edited: Actually my '51 two door has a wrist pin or three that are noisy. It is still "since it runs, drive it".

Last edited by Chipper; 03/02/12 12:05 AM.

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Thanks Guys...The noise is something I plan on living with unless of course it takes a turn for the worst !

Tiny , show us that motor after you paint it ! Ya hear!


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kevin - loose push rod on the valves ? frank

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Tiny Offline OP
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Originally Posted by kevin47
Tiny , show us that motor after you paint it ! Ya hear!

One step closer. Might get her fired up tomorrow! Don't worry the red heater hoses are going away. laugh

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Tiny,
The engine is painted up real nice. luv2 Looks like correct color! drool Good luck with firing it up and all. Agrin
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I'm looking forward to seeing it and hearing it run on our next VCCA Tour Tiny.
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Looking good Tiny, it will be fun for you to hear that baby purrrr!


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