VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Oil Bypass Filter and Klaxton Horn Fitted

Gidday fellas,

Today with the help of Ray (1928isgreat) a couple more jobs were ticked off the list by lunch time, check out the blog... Thanks again Ray

http://montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/resto-new-bypass-oil-filter-canister.html

When a 30 000 km service on a dawoo costs $300 then $80 + delivery for an oil filter that is ment to last 10 000 miles is good value in my books! And it is mounted in the origonal location with no more holes drilled into the fire wall but to each their own I guess.

Gidday Yobbo,

Completely understand your thoughts, but I also like the idea of a modern quality oil filter doing a better job than an old tin can jam backed with gause that you cannot periodically check besides draining it and considering the amount of grit and crap that these old engines must suck in so yes, for myself its just peace of mind and easy to do....

Just wanted to add my oil filter solution to the discussion.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/galleries/329366

Cheers, Dean

Hi Dean,

Your set up looks neat and tidy, with a bit a practical engineering also.

Cheers

Ray

I have it on good authority the new reproduction AC oil filters for 1927-1928 contain a modern Fram CH820PL3 filter which is better than anything you might find in the last 80 years. :)

I am asking the following questions as "better" can have many meanings and I would like to understand how and why this filter is better than other options.

When you write
Does that mean that it removes more stuff from the oil? or that it filters smaller particles from the oil? Is the flow rate and % of oil circulating through the filter greater? Is the oil flow to the bearings reduced or increased? Is the oil circulating through the bearings a better lubricant with this filter? Is the flow rate to the bearings sufficient to keep them well lubricated and cool? Will use of the filter result in a longer engine life? Better performance? or ????

It sure would be nice if you could open the new repro/correct AC filter unit and replace the CH820PL3 filter, instead of having to buy a new repro unit for $90.

Dean

I don't fully understand your motivations but I will try to explain my use of the term 'better' for you. Given the options currently available for an original style 1927-1928 oil filter, which include either an original AC filter or the reproduction unit, I personally have a higher degree of confidence in the ability of the reproduction unit with CH820PL3 to filter smaller particulates than the original AC type loosely packed with a wad of steel wool. This is based on personal inspection of the contents of both types of filters.


A couple years ago, I performed a simple test by connecting a two-foot long section of clear vinyl hose inline with the oil filter. I measured the amount of time it took the oil to travel across the section of hose after starting the motor. I tested an original AC filter I had previously backflushed with gasoline to clean it, a modern reproduction AC filter, and a spin-on remote oil filter adapter I rigged up. The differences were not significant. The restriction at the input end of the oil filter limits the flow rate. The % of oil circulating through the filter is a function of the flow rate.


Given that the 1927-1928 oil filtration system is bypass design, oil flow to the bearings remains the same regardless of the flow rate through the filter.


The oil filter does not change the chemistry of the lubricant.


The flow rate to the bearings is a function of the oil pump, the splash system including the rod dippers and the depth of those dippers into the oil pan troughs, and the center main squirter. Again the bypass oil filter system does not affect the flow rate to the engine bearings.


I don't have enough emperical evidence to answer whether the use of the filter will result in a longer engine life. I doubt it will result in any difference in performance. As to other questions, people will have to use their own judgement. I am but one voice in a crowded room of strongly held opinions.

Cheers!

Speaking of opinions, I'll throw my 2 cents worth in. I've been driving 4 cyl Chevs for over 40 years and currently own four.

1st my opinion is, I don't use an filter.

2nd I like to keep my cars as original as I can.

3rd I've done over 95,000 miles in my Chev 4's and 145,000 in my 34 master.

4th with the 27/28 oil filters, as stated, they are a bypass filter which is not much of a filter, which is close to useless.

5th the line that comes out of the block and into the oil filter, goes between the 2nd and 3rd cylinder casting, and on long trips I've seen the brass oil pipe fractures due to heat and vibration, causing engine failure. Keep in mind the the oil pressure still shows on the guage.

6th why were they discontiued after only 2 years?

My solution was to leave the oil union in and turn the pipe back into the union where the out line of the filter goes back into the union. I still have a dummy line and the filter in place, but not used.

Also re the con rods, there is only one drill hole on one side of the curved part. What I have done is to drill a hole in the other side as well, and I've counter sunk both holes so that oil remains always in the the counter sunk hole.

And my oil pressure when hot is always 10-12 lbs pressure.

I reiterate, this is my opinion only and works geat for me.

Also remember, why did Chevrolet not continue oil filters for the next many years.

Chris

Coachman,
Thanks for the detailed reply. I was merely trying to understand what was meant by "better". In this case I can agree that given your observations and testing the filter does a better job of removing particles from the oil. Very few would go to the trouble of taking the time to try to understand what the filter did and and didn't do. You are to be complimented.