VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 TT bushing puller

I'm ready to pull the original TT bushing so I can install the oakie bushing BUT neither the Filling Station or Chevs of the 40s has the puller in stock. The car is in the shop, eating up space and I don't have six months to wait on back orders. Does anyone have a puller I can borrow/rent/buy? The pin has been drilled but the bushing won't budge. I suppose pulling the carrier and drive shaft to drive it out from the backside is an option but I'd really rather not go there. Help anyone?

Wish I had'nt have loaned mine... sorry


http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-Drive-Shaft-Bushing-Puller/productinfo/92-019/

This guy says 2 weeks away. You can make it work..beware, may not work.


Trying hard to help.

Tiny, I sent you a PM.

Hi Tiny, I also could lend you one with directions and an old universal joint to beat the new bushing in. Send me a PM with your address if things don't work out. I am assuming that the drive shaft dimensions are the same in 38 as they were for my 41? Good luck, Mike

Thanks guys. Ken, I replied to your PM and thank you.

How about a picture of one of those bushing pullers. I don't think I've ever seen such a critter.
Charlie

Wawuzit wants a chromed one............

Charlie just wants to see one......

Charlie, if you say you like Fulton sunvisors, I might show you a picture....

Ahhhhh, what the heck, we're all friends havin' fun....

here it is...........


TaaaaDaaaaa..........



Someone needs to start making these again!!!!!!


Hey, all that aside................isn't this a great site......ask and ye shall receive... this is what vintage Chevy guys are all about......helping each other make it right!

The problem with that puller is that it is necessary to remove the propeller (drive) shaft to use it. Tapping out the bushing with a chisel or other blunt end tool can be done with the shaft in place. Have done it several times without too much time or trouble.

This one does not require the removal of the shaft. It goes bewteen the shaft and bushing. The screw end rests on the axle end. As you screw it it gets wider and pulls back. Much easier than trying to chisel it out. I used it on mine. The problem comes when you try to install the Oakie. It doesn't have much sidewall clearance. You get it started and then it gets tighter and tighter. You almost panic thinking it isn't going all the way and you'll never get it out,that's why you don't have to use the pin again to hold it in place.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/163391/

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/201678/

Chipper, the puller fits in the annular space between the propellor (drive) shaft and the torque tube without removing the shaft from the torque tube.

Here's a photo of the puller again.....



Here's a picture of the puller inserted into the torque tube....


And here's a picture of the puller with the old bushing on it....


Hope this helps.


Wawuzit.....we were typing at the same time looking at the same stuff

Panic is the word that described my oakie situation. I did NOT have a lift. I was sweating and worn out trying to get the oakie to go all the way. I've read where guys say it wasn't hard and only took a few minutes. and then I've read horror stories about it not going all the way. One guy put the WRONG end in first !! I hope Tinys goes in smooth. Hopefully he has a lift. Chipper is thinking of something else.

I saw the bolt going from one end and out the other in the first photo. The bolt in that position would interfere with the propeller shaft. The other problem I see is that the propeller shaft fits close to the ID of the bushing and the OD of the bushing fits tight to the ID of the housing. Where is the space to permit the puller to grab the bushing? Or are you only talking about the front bushing that stabilizes the U-joint? I can see how that puller will remove that one. Still don't see how it would remove the bushing for the propeller shaft. What am I missing? or not understanding?

I have a bushing puller with a T handle that might pull the U-joint bushing. Don't have a car to try it on.

The center of the tool is unseen. It slides within itself. Look at he top photo of Kens post. Like a dummy, I loaned mine and the guy sold the car before he ever used it. He gave me the new oakie but the tool went with the car. I wish I had it, I'd show different views. Maybe Tiny will do that after he gets his done. I now have two new oakies besides the one I put in the car.

Ken,
Thanks. Now I've seen one. Next time I see one at the auto show flea market, I try ti buy it.
Charlie

OK guys, I'm confused. I've never put in an oakie bushing. How many bushings are in there? Is there one that the universal joint runs in and one that the propeler shaft runs in plus an oil seal? I can see how that puller could pull one that the u-joint runs in as there would be clearance there with the u-joint out of the way, but I don't see how it could work with the one the propeller shaft runs in (the one with the dowel pin) it seems that there would not be enough clearance there to get the tool in (like chipper said). Does the oakie bushing replace both bushings and the seal? Do you have to remove 2 bushings or just one? I don't have a clear picture of what is in there, even though I have studied my parts book. I only see one bushing listed that the prop shaft runs in and nothing listed for one the u-joint runs in although the picture in the book looks like there is something there. I would like to know because I'm pretty sure I need at least one, maybe two.
Thanks for any info!

I think that the okie bushing puller outer sleeve is thin enough to go over the splined end of the drive shaft and the end of the bolt in the inner sliding sleeve butts up against the end of the drive shaft and that is what the puller pulls against. I can see that it might be a problem if the bushing refuses to be bullied and refuses to be pulled! The key to using the puller is to have the old bushing worn out and with clearance between the drive shaft and the puller has room to slip between the driveshaft and the worn bushing, I guess it may not work on an unworn Okie bushing!

I prefer the Chipper & Chevy way of punching the bushing out using the slot where you can get a long nosed punch in behind the bushing after the dowell pin is drilled in that slot, and knocking it out the front of the torque tube, after really cleaning the space around the drive shaft. It is really nice if you have the car on a lift! Be prepared to remove the hogshead and the complete torque tube if you mess up!

On cars this old it may be hard to say how many bushings are in a torque tube drive shaft. originally there was one at the front of the driveshaft in the front of the torque tube. The Chevy plan was to pull the old bushing and replace it with one of the same type, this required drilling out the dowel that pinned it in place, that plan meant there was one front bushing. How-some-ever ...along came the Okie bushing. To replace an Okie bushing, often it was driven in without removing the old one, after of course either drilling out the old original dowell pins and pulling that bushing, I have seen a torque tube or two with as many as three stacked up one in front of the other. all I can say is "Pull away"!

OK Thanks MrMack, Several years ago I removed the one on my 33, just drilled out the pin drove out the bushing and put in a NOS bushing and it seems to have done the job vibration wise. I was concerned that the shaft was worn and it wouldn't be satisfactory. I have read that the oakie runs on unworn portions of the driveshaft plus has a new seal. I still have the problem of transmission oil leaking into the differential so I have to drain that down about once a year. It seems like the bushing would have to be severely worn for that tool to fit in there. As I remember I had no problem driving the old one out with a punch.

One of the problems here is that those oakie bushing assemblies were made many years ago and with some of them, the seal is old and dry. They apparently sell new seals for them. I can't imagine how one would remove an oakie bushing, even with everything apart. I think it would be difficult to do without damaging the tube.

By the way, were the original seals just a cork ring and a washer?

Now you guys have me thinking. I'm not getting any vibration in the drive shaft. I discovered excess gear oil in the differential. My thinking is while the engine is out being rebuilt, to use the oakie's new seal to stop the oil migration from the transmission to the rear end. The pin on the old bushing has been drilled out but the shop was unable to find a way to remove the bushing without the puller. There wasn't a lot of excess gear oil in the rear end, maybe a cup (and that took three years to accumulate) so that COULD be managed by emptying the rear end excess and topping off the tranny every year but if a new oakie will fix the problem for some years to come why not do it. The seal in the oakie is pliable & looks like it should work OK. Does that make sense or am I chasing rainbows? Since I'm not getting vibration and there's not a LOT of oil leaking by am I making work where none is really necessary? Ideas?

It's not so much about vibration as it is pressure. When the diff. overfills it puts pressure on the axle seals. They began to leak and then the entire brakedrum area is FULL of grease. When I got my car from Texas I took it out for a test spin and noticed the brakes smelled like burning grease and after I stopped and then started the rear wheel SLIDE for a couple of feet. I took the drum off and the entire chamber was full of grease. I had to buy shoes and spend a long time cleaning everything up and I had to turn the drums. Whata mess. The new seals had to be pressed on in a shop.

I say go with the oakie.


Note: But on the other hand...whata I know...grin

BTW..Have you pulled the rear drums off lately. That will tell you alot.

The over filling of the differetial does not create pressure as the 1937 and up have a vent on top of the bajo housing to relieve pressure. The over full condition will bring the level to high and if the old axle seals are bad the leak will happen..

Not really PRESSURE! but merely the level of gear oil or grease in the differential and old seals that don't retain the gear oil an overfilled differential allows the gear lube to run down the axle housings, past old stiff and worn out seals and ruin the brake bands.

Answers to a couple of questions.....

There are two bushings in the torque tube and one seal that we are speaking about. The front bushing supports the universal joint and that is the one to be removed by the puller pictured. The second bushing supports the propellor (drive) shaft farther back in the torque tube along with the seal. That second bushing and seal will remain in place after the oakie bushing is installed. There is sufficient annular space between the splined end of the shaft and the front bushing for the puller to fit through (remember, the u-joint used to take up space there and now we removed it to do this job). Further, if you look at the puller picture, you can see it is kerfed (slotted) around the circumference so it can "collapse" on it self to fit into a tight space. The oakie bushing was developed to provide for a quick and easy method of repair and to avoid (at least once) having to disassemble the torque tube/differential and having to remove the drive shaft to replace the bushings. I can personally attest that the puller works as it is intended to and further note that it must have been pretty popular because all the vendors are sold out of them.

Yeppers!!