|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 106
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 106 |
With new door hinge bushing noticed that my driver side could use about a 1/16" lift so the body and door lines match up.
Tried to heat and loosen the 78 year old screws -but- before I go any further...are the hinges adjustable (up/down in/out)?
Thanks
33Master5W 34Master3W
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292
ChatMaster - 3,000
|
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292 |
NO, you adjust the doors alighnment buy using shims under the body mounting rubbers. Loosen the first 2 ***after*** the front cowl section bolt. Then get a hydralic pump jack and put it under the wood that sits on top of the body mounts. I would suggest a flat piece of 1/4" thick steel piece to spread the stress to the wood over a 3-5 " . Then jack car up enough on the wood to get a shim inside and have the bolt run thru it.
The shim should go in the bolt area just ahead of the END OF THE DOOR OPENING. Snug down the bolt , take pressure off jack and check the gap alighnment on the body line. If its good , fine, if not you need a thicker shim.
Too ajdust the door in and out......you can only make the door bottom area come in at the very bottom corner. There should be a diagonal rod that runs from the front upper corner to the bottom far corner. Tightening that up will bring the corner into a hopefully flush fit. I would remove the assembly and lubricate the threads with white lithium grease .
mike
Last edited by mike_lynch; 12/21/11 04:45 PM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 956
ChatMaster - 750
|
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 956 |
EDNY - Get yourself a copy of the 1933 repair manual. For door misalignment the fix is adding and removing shims at the body mounting locations. Diagrams suggest where to shim for the various conditions.
Roger
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 106
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 106 |
Thanks for the responses..really appreciate them.
Ed
33Master5W 34Master3W
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 387
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 387 |
Here is another door question. On my 33 5 window coupe the trailing edge of the door next to the latch itself rubs on the vertical part of the door opening. Its as if the door is longer than the opening. Any question on how to solve this problem? Thanks Don
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
If you taper the edge of the door a bit will it miss the door post? Or you can recess the hinges a bit if there is room on the other side.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292
ChatMaster - 3,000
|
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292 |
Here is another door question. On my 33 5 window coupe the trailing edge of the door next to the latch itself rubs on the vertical part of the door opening. Its as if the door is longer than the opening. Any question on how to solve this problem? Thanks Don xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Don, your talking about *door gap * . The other poster mentions a body book, i think he is talking about a book put out by >>> crank and hope ?? for 1929 to 1933 chevrolets. In there it discusses how do do all kinds of body adjustments. I have no idea where mine is. I would suggest anybody owning a 1929--35 chevrolet this would be a good book to own. mike
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292
ChatMaster - 3,000
|
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292 |
found this online with google search
crank n' hope publications 382 sloan alley blairsville PA 15717-1481 1-724-459-8853
mike
|
|
|
|
|
|