VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 What do these numbers on my engine mean?

In a way this is a continuation of my Water Pump question but because it is a different subject I thought I had better create a new topic.
After I removed my water pump I looked in "Chevs of the 40's" catalog for a replacement. The one for a 1939-40 is 1 7/8".
The one for a 1937-38 is 2 5/8". When I measured mine I found it to be 2 5/8". Either someone put the wrong water pump on some time back or my engine is not a 1939 (my car is a 1939). I found a set of numbers on the right side of the Engine Block , they are; BG 7750 32. Does anyone know what they mean? Is there any other way I can tell what year the Engine is?

Those appear to be casting #'s (?)...take a look at your engine's serial #'s back / inline with distributor beginning letter indicates year...I believe

http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevytalk/GMhistory/1916-57cast.html


This will help.


838941 is a 1939

Engine Serial # starting with J='39 , H='38 , etc. ( see: old online chevy manuals )

I thought BG was a 235 number. I'm more than likely wrong.

http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevytalk/GMhistory/cast.html


look at 1941-42

I can't seem to find that on a 216...

Is # 835791 on the engine anywhere?

Like just forward / below distributor...might be hard to see w/out an inspection mirror...and a flash-light....( dyslexia might come in handy at this point too...JUST KIDDING!!!)

If the water pump has one large hole connecting to the block the engine is a 1937-1940. If it has two holes it is a 1941 or later.
A BG is a 1942 truck 235 engine. These numbers/letters would be stamped into the ledge behind the distributor. The casting nimber s are raised and would be 3660439, 839751, 0r 3835335

Alright..even I can be right once in a while....grin

The good news is he has a 235 instead of a 216. Unless...he's one of these correctness guys.grin

I thought my car sounded like on old truck! It seems from what you guys are saying, I have a 235 truck engine in my car! The number BG 7750 32 is stamped on the machined surface just behind the distributor. I can not find any raised numbers anywhere on the engine block, either side.
Also the water pump I removed has two holes as does the Engine block where it mounts.
The two hole water pump in the "Chevs of the 40's" is for a 1953-54. Was there an earlier engine that had the two hole water pump? Woe is me....I am getting depressed!

Pull the pump and go to your FLAPS. You'll find a rebuilt pump for less than ordering it on line plus you'll not pay shipping. They'll be able to match your pump (unless you get someone too lazy or ignorant to use the old books because it most likely won't be on their computer). I got a rebuilt pump for my '38 at the local Bumper To Bumper store.

I found a Bumper to Bumper in the yellow pages. i'll give them a call tomorrow. I will also try NAPA, they usually can get what I want. thanks, Bob

Now here's the magic question. Is it a 235 totally or is a 216 to 235 longblock swap? If it's a longblock swap(shortblock with the head installed)then you need to see if you have a 216 intake and exhaust manifold and a 216 carb. Some guys just order a longblock when the old 216 gives out. Many parts are bolt on parts if you go to a 235.

Note that I mentioned in my post that the 1941 and up engines had two holes. The 1941-1952 pump is the same as a 1953 and 1954 pump EXCEPT the 1953-54 pump has a pulley for the narrow fan belt.
The 235 engine from 1941-1949 uses the same head, carburetor, and manifolds as a 216.

Good information. My 56 /235 has 216 1938 intake,exhaust,carb. I think it cuts back on the horsepower of a 56 /235 but I'm not concerned about that part.

With the small carb, intake and exhaust and intake valves the 1941-1949 235 engine had only 3 more HP than a 216 but produced the HP at a lower RPM nad had more torque. The 1950 235 was completely revised and had 15 more HP

Chev Gene, I guess that is safe for me to order the two hole 53-54. If the pulley groove is too small for my belt I can just swap pulleys prior to returning my core. I still wish there were a way to pin down the year. The BG number I mentioned does not help? Bob

WaWuzit, Those thing you mentioned are all possibilities, but as you said earlier post a "correctness guy" I am not. It would be nice to have the correct engine but it is not the end of the world for me. I do like to know the stats of what I have though so when someone asks I don't have too look like I don't know what is going on. Bob

I think we're on the same page. Post a photo of your car, if that's not possible, Email one to me and I'll do it for you. See ya.

Tiny,
I was at CarQuest today and they have a rebuilt WaterPump for my (235)engine for $74 with no core exchange. If you turn in a core it is only $41 (and it includes the pulley and gasket. I ordered one. It is suppose to be here tomorrow. Sure beats catalog prices! Bob

You'd be surprized how you can get orginal parts(or maybe repo)from NAPA. They had several parts I needed ...cheap.

A lot of engine parts are that way. There are a lot of farm trucks using that family of engine still on the road.

The most helpful thing would be to post the casting number on the right side of the block more or less behind the fuel pump

I believe the 39 motor still had an oil slinger in the rear instead of a rear main seal. If you have a later motor, I think the rear of the pan would be different and the cross member will have been modified. This should be obvious from underneath in that the cross member behind the pan will have been cut to half its width. Wawuzit posted a picture of his modified cross member some time back.

IF YOUR WATER PUMP, GENERATOR AND BALANCER HAS THE WIDE GROVE PULLY FOR THE OLD STYLE WIDE FAN BELT I WOULD ORDER THE 1941-1952 WATER PUMP. THE 1953 PUMP HAS THE MODRN NARROW GROVE PULLY. tO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE PULLY THE WATER PUMP MUST BE PARTLY DISASSEMBLED AND ALSO A SPECIAL PULLER USED.