VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Painting a '31 frame?

After 2 weeks of scraping, wire brushing and general cleaning, I'm ready to start finishing the frame on my '31. Everything removable is off except engine/trans. Steel is in very good condition, some minor pitting in a couple of spots(areas under cowl of course) so it should take paint great. I plan to give it a final wash with lacquer thinner to remove any remaining traces of grease/oil/etc. What then? I do not have access to spray gear.
Bought a gallon of black semi-gloss Tremclad rust paint, and my plan is to apply it by brush and roller as suits. Not looking for a show car, but would like it to look reasonably close to original, which I realize were dipped. Any one got suggestions before I get started? BTW, the area behind the brake switch was protected by the gasket, in perfect original condition and was still shiny black.

I did about the same to my 33 coupe in about 1980. I don't remember what kind of paint I used. If I get under it now it looks like it has held up fairly good but I think I wish I had used a primer. But 30 years is a long time.

Yep, that's how the frames were......shiny black but not really like the modern "semi-gloss."

So Dawg, are you thinking a "gloss" would be closer than a semi, can't have it both ways? And how about the notion of priming first, understand not required or desired for the "rust paint" products? Way I see it, if I use red "rust" primer, then any metal paint should suffice as a top coat. My objective is to get a smooth final finish, but not overly glossy. I'll leave the real glossy to the fenders etc!

The frames and other parts were dipped in black Japan enamel which, when dry, is a gloss. Not a high gloss like you would get if the enamel was cut and buffed, but a natural gloss that enamel gives after it is applied.

"Semi-gloss" or "semi-flat" (as some paint manufacturers call it) is half way between gloss and flat. It is not shiny but it is not flat.

On my frame I did a more quality job since I wanted it to last for decades and also look like a factory finish. I had the frame sand blasted and then I sprayed it with several coats of red-oxide primer using a spray gun. Then I top coated the frame with PPG enamel. The finish came out looking just like factory....you know......like the part of the frame that was covered by your brake light switch gasket.

If you use "red rust primer" every time it gets nicked the red will show thru.Use a charcoal grey or black if you do use a primer.

I used POR 19 which has a primer and a black paint. This paint when properly applied is very strong. You can pound on it with a hammer and it will not chip. Look it up on the internet. Make sure you follow the instructions to pour out the paint you will use into a new clean container--as if you put a brush into the original can it will contaminate the paint and begin the hardening process. Its a great frame paint.

Think it's called POR-15. Great stuff, fills in small pit marks and has a super shine.

I am glad you have good results with the POR-15. I don't allow the stuff in my shop.

Ray,
If you use any single stage Urethane it is basically the same as POR 15. Difference is POR uses an aromatic isocyanate which makes the paint susceptible to UV versus a aliphatic isocyanate which is not. I have used POR 15 for many, many years and it works great in some applications. Sorta like silicone works well in some applications but is used in way too many where it does not perform as well as alternatives.

Ray,

You should publish a list of things you don't allow in your shop. I would be interested in that list! I hope you take this in good fun as I recall the discussions from the past that we have had about RTV.


Scott

Yea, you can't get POR-15 to stick to anything that is coated with RTV.

I don't allow POR-15 in my shop either.

I probably won't ever use it either.

Ray, if you could get some paint to stick to silicone(really well) I would be interested in some of that!

Just curious, what is so bad about POR-15?

The thing that makes POR 15 good is also one thing that makes it bad. or course P-O-R means Paint Over Rust. That is what it is good for, is really not the best thing to use on bright shiny or primed metal. Now the bad part, It sticks to stuff so well like skin, any place on a car it isn't wanted to stick on, cloth upholstery, and it won't come off skin, it has to wear off, and POR is a bugger for wear! also if you open a can of POR use some and get some on the rim of the can and put the lid back on, it is now a permanent lid. What I did was punch a hole in the lid, then to close it up run a screw into the hole, next use drill another hole with another bit (the old bit is now permanently coated with POR and don't work anymore), others put SERAN wrap over the can before poping on the lid. Don't ever drop a can of POR, it is like radar controlled magnetically guided, it will go directly to your car or whatever is valuable and make it's mark permanently. I saw a 1932 Chevrolet that the owner dropped a gallon of POR about 7 feet from the car. 90% of the POR went in the open door and ruined the seat, door panels headliner, instrument panel and both the front fender and hood. It should have a neon or LED sign on the bucket: USE WITH COMPLETE DISREGARD FOR ANYTHING WITHIN 10 METERS! I would use it on a old rust coated frame kinda wire brush the big rust flakes off and paint, with a brush, but be CAREFUL or KERFUL, whichever, cause it will go right thru those blue Nitrile gloves you get from Harbour Freight and almost any make of coveralls and TEE shirts, get it on your tenny shoes and they will never need polish again.

WOW, you guys have me afraid to use that stuff, if I got it on my hands I might not live long enough to ever wear it off, and when I paint I always get as much on me as what I am painting!
It does sound like it must last a long time.

Ha ha... I love it... Yes, POR can be very hazardous if you screw up with it. But if you use it properly, it's fantastic.

My experience (very, very briefly):

a) Used on something kept inside is great. No UV light to fade the color. Example: Gas Pump on display.

b) Used on a rough surface, like cast iron, is great. It sticks and you'll NEVER get it off. Used on a clean, smooth surface is problematic. I can almost always peel it off after a little while.


When I get a new can, I "punch" two holes in the lid. (Save a Drill) Then I insert two "large" screws (Number 16?) in the holes. Whenever I want to use some POR, I take both screws out, pour some into a dixie cup and put the screws back in place. When done, I let the remaining amount in the dixie cup sit under my carport for a week until it is solid. Then trash it.

There is non-UV affected POR now available.

If you get it on your hands, you're toast. It'll last for 2 to 3 weeks. As long as it doesn't clash with your nail-polish, then you might be alright.

POR? I love it.

--Bill Barker

Hey Billy Boy Barker: Where is your Avatar??

What is this all about the avatars? Just like A$$ holes, everybody seams to have one.

Avatars: Some have them and then some do NOT.

As Andys29 pointed out, not everyone has an Avatar. However, you had an Avatar and it is now gone as well. Notice the red "X" where your Avatar used to be.

One of the major advantages of POR 15 is you can brush it on and have it level out so you can't see the brush marks. It looks sprayed without having to mask things off or cleaning overspray.

I have used POR for over 10 years with great success. Yes even on bead blasted clean metal. If you get any on your skin then wipe it off quickly and/or wipe with a rag or paper towel moistened with lacquer thinner. It comes off if it does not cure on your skin or anything else. Since it is single stage it takes moisture to cure so the higher the moisture the faster is cures.

Like anything else used improperly results will be less than desired.