VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Oil Pan Removal

So - sounds like I've got a rod knock, so I'd like to check out my rods and shims. Is there enough clearance to take the oil pan off while the engine is still in the car? Will it clear while mounted? If not, will the pan clear if you lift the front of the engine up a bit? Or does the engine have to be removed completely? Don't really want to do that because to do that you have to remove the hood which involves removing the springs and we've all been following what a job that is! :-)

All that has to be removed is one end of the long tie rod.
I would try to short out the knock by removing one spark plug wire at a time

Thanks, Gene! Dave & I will do some more troubleshooting before tearing it apart, but we were afraid we'd have to pull the engine. Glad to hear that's not necessary! :-)

Hey Dale , I'm sorry to hear of your predicament...but I also have a noise coming from back near cylinder 5 or 6...was wondering what yours sounds like...Mine is only at idle...it's a "clock" sound at 1 to 2 second intervals...intermittently ( it will miss a "clock" occasionally ) It's not that loud but annoying...it doesn't seem to get any worse (X) How 'bout yours ? Kevin ...I'll try Gene's "wire" trick also...

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/152001/OIL_PAN_GASKET#Post152001 Dale. say it ain't so. Click on the link and Gene will tell you all you ever want to know about the oil pan.

Dale, you're probably not in any mood to hear this but maybe it will help your feeling. True story! In 1965 my Dad bought me a 1952 Chevy. The man selling the car wanted $75.00. He said only thing wrong was it had a slight knock!! We drove the car the 20 sum miles home. The next day we drove the car sum 20 more miles to my Moms brothers who had a part time garage business in his back yard. He was always working on somebody's car. When we drove up the driveway he came out and said "sounds like a loose rod". In no time he had the pan off and said, Yep, #5 is loose. He bent the little tabs over, backed out the bolts. Took a piece of emory cloth and polished up the journals a lick or two. Took the cap, ran it down a file a time or two. Put it back on and snugged it up. Said that should hold her for 4 or 5 hundred miles! Buttoned her up, Started her up. Purrred like a kitten. Sure enough, lasted almost 600 miles before we had to do it again. After 2 years Dad traded it for a 59 Chevy 6 that got almost 40 miles to the quart of oil. No mosquitoes in my neighborhood. Went off to the Navy in '67. Don't remember what happened to the '59. Anyway, their is hope.

Thanks for the info, guys. Next question: Cousin Dave wants to know if there is a different sound or way to tell if the "knock" is (a) a wrist pin, (b) a connecting rod, or (c) a main bearing. Do they make different sounds at different speeds or ??? My knock is most pronounced at start-up. I suppose less oil to fill the gaps? After warm-up, higher speeds make the most noise. Fairly quiet at idle (once warmed up).

Yes there are a couple of ways to distinguish the knocks.
Start the engine and locate the noise. Then accelerate and note if the noise gets worse or goes away. Let off and note of worse or goes away. Next load the engine by letting out the clutch until the engine starts to reduce speed with brakes on. Does it get noisier? Pull the spark plug wires off the running engine (actually get cousin Dave to do it in case the spark jumps to the hand) and note if the noise is reduced. If it does then you have identified the suspect cylinder(s).

One of the best ways is to use a stethoscope and identify the location of the noise (where it is loudest). If you don't have a stethoscope then a long screwdriver, rod, dowel put next to your ear also works.

Once you have completed the above tests post the results and we can help diagnose the problem.

Wrist pin - will make noise at idle speed. Will be worst when first starting engine and allowing it to idle. Will go away or lessen if engine is reved-p to about 2000 RPM for 20 seconds as the oil will be trown up and fill the gap. Will also be worse when oil is hot and will lessen when engine is reved up.

main bearing - Will thump when engine is first started for about 2 seconds. As soon as the oil fills the gap will go away. If real loose will thump under a pull with hot oil
Note the temp. of the oil makes a big difference with bearings.

Rod bearing - will be heard at slight throttle pressure around 35 MPH.....with hot oil.

Piston slap will be worse when cold. If excessive will knock at idle for a few minutes till the piston warms up and expands. Will also make noise under load when cold. Aluminum pistons and iron pistons will make slightly different noises at various speeds ans temperatures.

A bent rod will also make a difficult to pin-point noise.

Thanks again for the insights. Will see when I get Cousin Dave up here to check it out. I do agree with your suggestion that Cousin Dave pull the wires. I've bumped into one of the metal spark plug connectors working on the timing. Once is enough. You guys make house calls? :-)

Thank you , for the useful information ...I'll check things out this weekend and report back in on results . Had an idea that might save cousin Dave some pain by hooking a plastic zip-tie to spark plug wire end and pull when needed...Kevin