Also check the frame for squareness by measuring the diagonals. That can be hard to do on a complete vehicle. It's easiest to do it by parking the vehicle on a flat and level surface (garage floor), and using a plumb bob or something similar to transfer fixed points of the frame down to the garage floor. If you can transfer a point from each corner of the frame to the floor, you can then measure diagonally between the LF/RR and RF/LR, and compare those two measurements. If they differ more than about a 1/4" (6mm), your frame has been pushed out of perfectly square and is now more of a diamond shape.
This is common with old Chevs as they do not have a "K" or "X" member in the center of the frame to keep it rigid, but rather riveted in straight cross members. If the vehicle has been hit in any of the four corners fairly hard, straight on, or has been pulled on any corner hard (think tractor pulling a stuck car out of the mud using a chain), the frame can be pulled into a diamond shape. At that point, the cross members and axles are not square to the center line of the frame, and the front of the torque tube will not want to center up on the transmission.
If your measurements show this, it is usually easy to push it back to square using a Porto-Power (hydraulic) or something similar that can push or pull (or both) on the frame diagonally from solid points. I have even welded small gusset plates into a couple of my old trucks where the cross members meet the frame rails to hold the frame square. Once it's back to square, the torque tube will line up perfectly with the transmission without having to use force.