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Joined: Aug 2011
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Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13 |
I am still having trouble with hesitation from a standing start. I advanced the timing, which helped a lot but the engine knocks on acceleration. I backed off on the advance but the hesitation got worse and the knock is still present.
Should I see the distributor rotate when I "gun' the engine?
Thanks Clough
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Joined: Dec 2001
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ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
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I doubt that the vacumn advance has anything to do with hesitation from a stop, nor about the engine knock.
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2008
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To answer your question: yes. If you have a rod knock, forget about trying to fix anything until you get that fixed or replace the engine. I think if you pull off one plug wire at a time and the knock goes away, you will have found your bad bearing. You may be lucky. I'm not sure if your engine still had the bearing shims or not. Some of these guys can tell you stories about swapping the bearings out or just shimming to get rid of a knock. I don't know the story of your car, but rebuilding yours or finding a good replacement is not that big a deal. Lots of guys get rid of the stock running gear to hotrod our cars. Plenty of guys here can give you more help than I can. Good luck!
Dean 50 - VCCA #44675
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Joined: Feb 2008
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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When you say "knock" ... are you talking about a "spark knock / ping " or are you talking about a knock, such as an engine bearing problem ?
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13 |
I think it is a spark knock/ping.
Thanks Clough
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Joined: Feb 2008
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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Use a hand held vacuum pump .... connect to the vac. advance .... see if it will hold vacuum or not. If not, diaphragm in advance is leaking.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Actually you can put a rubber hose on the vacuum advance and suck really hard. If the link does not move (some times you have to push in on the link lightly) they you have a leak. If the link moves put the end of you tongue on the end of the tube to seal it off. If the link returns to the original position then you have a small leak. If does not move for 30 seconds or so the advance is okay.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Feb 2011
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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I like your diaphragm leak-down test method , Chipper , it helps me " bond " with my car...How long will the circle on my tongue last ? Thanks , Kevin
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Depends on how hard you can suck and the size of the hose.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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To check the advance run the engine at a fast idle. Then disconnect the vacuum line while the engine is running. . The distributor should return to the same position it is in when the engine is not running.
Gene Schneider
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Depends on how hard you can suck and the size of the hose. This all sounds like the beginning of a "R rated" story ! 
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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