VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Won't start

Thanks again for all the advice. I'll be working on it over the weekend and hopefully will have some good news to report soon.

You'll get it. We haven't failed to get one running yet. Sometimes it takes a while. The distance and lack of hands on and ears perked complicates the process.

I recently had the same problem with my 30 model. After sitting for a couple of weeks the truck refused to start, pulled the dist. cap, reset the points and the truck started and ran for a couple of minutes and the engine died. I pulled the fuel line loose at the carb, spun the engine and had fuel at the line, hooked the line up, spun the engine and it ran for about sixty seconds and died. Now I am getting frustrated, Changed the points and coil, spun the engine, it ran for a couple of minutes and died again. I started pulling the carb and noticed there was no fuel when I disconnected the fuel line. I pulled the fuel pump and found the diaphragm was in bad condition.I put a new repair kit in the fuel pump and now it runs ok, evidently the pump was only functioning part of the time.

OK guys. After further review, I decided to re-wire everything from the ignition switch out! Figuring if I eliminate ALL the potential problems, maybe it will run. After all this, IT FIRED UP! I don't have an exact reason why it didn't run before, but it runs now. HOWEVER, I've encountered another problem. This one should be easier to figure out though. Apparently I misplaced a wire in the proccess. The coil is "hot" all the time. I must have put a wire on the ignition switch in the wrong place. If somebody could verify where the wires are supposed to go, maybe I can wrap this up! I changed both leads to the coil, and the one from the starter to the amp guage. I also changed some connecting wires from the amp guage to the switch. We're lamost there...well mostly you guys are :). Thanks again!
C.J.

If the coil is hot all the time it sounds like you connected to the battery side of the ignition switch. Use a test light and find the terminal on the switch that is turned on and off by the switch and connect the coil there.

The coil wires must be attached to the electrolock in specific locations.

The electrolock terminals are marked "Batt", Coil/Gauge and "Coil".

The positive side of the coil is attached to the "Coil/Gauge" terminal on the electrolock. The negative side of the coil is attached to the "Coil" terminal of the electrolock. The hot wire coming from the amp meter is attached to the "Batt" terminal of the electrolock.

Sounds like you don't have a wiring diagram for your car. If not, you can get one from the Filling Station. That is really a piece of literature that you should have.

Thanks guys. However, it now won't start again! regardless of what position I have the wires in. Even the position they were in when it started a few hours ago?!! Not sure what to do now.

Check to see if there is a ground between the electrolock terminal stud and the distributor breaker plate when the points are open and the electrolock is unlocked. If there is a ground then the car won't start.

JD The wiring diagram you referred to for his 1931 would that also be true for a 29? And if so what manual are they in or are they separate. Thank you

A wiring diagram is in the owner's manual but you can get a better and a more detailed wiring diagram from the Filling Station. Check out their catalog.

While most of the wiring is basically the same some of the wiring for 1929 is different than a 1931....especially the wiring for the electrolock.

I've decided to take a break from it for now. I've got a couple of 12+ hour work days coming up. I'll try to get back to it Wednesday. I did make one more observation. As soon as I connect the positive battery cable, even with the key off, the amp gauge goes immediately to discharge. Any thoughts?

You have current draw from something that is obviously wired hot. Take one thing at a time off line and when the amp meter goes back to a zero reading you will know which component is hot. You should have a wiring diagram to help you.

Also, as stated above "Check to see if there is a ground between the electrolock terminal stud and the distributor breaker plate when the points are open and the electrolock is unlocked. If there is a ground then the car won't start."

I was looking through the F.S. catalog, and couldn't find the wiring diagram anywhere. Any chance you got a part #

I just checked and the wiring diagrams are in their catalog, however, the Filling Station no longer lists the older wiring diagrams unfortuantely. At any rate, give me your email address and I will email you a copy of the 1930-31 Chevrolet wiring diagram.

I would have emailed it to you directly, but you don't have an email address listed in your profile.

Think, do you have 6 volts to your coil or not? If you do then it is not in your wiring. If you don't then the car won't start. It is not that hard to figure out which terminal on the igition switch is controled by the key. If there is 6 volts to the coil and the car won't start there is something else wrong. Like Ray said get your tester out and figure out which terminal goes on and off with the ignition switch.

Posted on November 8th.

Yes he had voltage then and he got it running but now after working on the wiring it won't start. I was just saying check that again so it can be ruled out as the reason it won't start.

barnfind31,
The current draw (short) apparently is not continuous situation but intermittent. If that is the case then when the draw is not active the car will run but then the "short" drops the voltage so the car will not run. Once you find the "short" the car should run.

Just be aware that you should get ~ 2-4 amp discharge when the ignition switch is on and the points are closed. Will not always be that way but my experience is that the points are closed about 90% of the time that I jump in and turn on the ignition switch.

Just to clarify things Ed, I've always had 6.6 volts at the coil, both when it ran, and when it didn't. I will also say this, I've always HATED electrical problems! I'd rather rebuild the tranny and rearend again than fight electrical problems! I'm a voltage idiot unfortunately. Thanks again for all the advice and patience. Hopefully have good news on wednesday.

Almost forgot, Junkyard Dog, I got your e-mail. Diagram came through great! Thanks again!

C.J.

You bet and glad that I was able to help you out.

C.J.
Did you get it figured out yet? If you have had trouble with the distributor insulators, I would check for spark. Did you get the ignition switch to break the circuit to the coil? If not that could be your current draw when connecting the battery. The wiring diagram that JYD sent you should be a big help.

Hey Ed, nothing yet. I've been workin 12+ hours the last 2 days. Hoping to put some time in tomorrow though. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again,
C.J.

Yeah, those 12 hr. days suck! Hope you get it going when you have time to work on it.

OK Guys, finally got back to the garage. I followed the wiring diagram,(thanks Dog), and now I've got NOTHING! I can't even get juice to the coil now. I'm assuming 2 possibilities:
1) I have the ignition switch wired completely backwards. I was told there were makings on the switch, but I can't see any. I suppose I could have ALL the wires in the exact opposite spot they should be, but I don't think so. In it's current state, I have positive coil and gas gauge on the passenger side of the switch closest to the dash. The neg. coil on the same side farthest from the dash, and a wire to the ammeter on the driver side closest to the dash. Any help here would be appreciated.
2) Is it possible that all of my problems started with my ignition switch slowly going bad? Is it the possible source for my "intermittent ground" problem?
Thanks again for all the help!
C.J.

#1. From your description you have the electrolock wired correctly.

#2. Yes.