VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Won't start

Hi all. My 1931 2dr Coach is giving me fits! I recently completed a LOT of work to the car,none of it electrical, and was finally ready to go for a cruise. After several "test fires" in the garage, I put the car back on the ground and headed out. I made it all of 100 feet before the car died just as I shifted into 2nd gear. Pushed it back into the garage, changed the coil and it fired right back up. However it only ran for 5 minutes before it died again. Any ideas??
As always, thanks in advance for your help!
C.J.

You will need to give us a bit more information. When it quits does it just stop or spit and sputter? Does it act like you are shutting off the ignition switch? Any other symptoms? Noises? Sounds? What happens when you turn off the ignition switch and then immediately try to start it?

From what you report I'm going to say your problem most likely is Fuel related. That said, I think you have a restriction somewhere in the Fuel Delivery System. Seeing as the car ran fine on blocks but started showing failure after being moved about I'd start at the Gas Tank and look into it with a Flashlight. You will see the Pick Up and determine if it is clear. You can disconnect the Fuel Line and see if Gas flows out of the Tank freely. Your Fuel Pump Diaphragm may be weak so why not replace it? If the car will start, jiggle all the wires, Switch, Coil and Distributor. When it quits, immediately give a little squirt of Starting Fluid and see if it fires right up. Retard the Spark completely before doing this. If it does fire right up I'd be looking for a Fuel Problem. Al W. Please Post what happens.

Chip, it shut of like you turned of the key, dies instantly. Doesn't sound like a fuel problem, but I could be wrong Al. It has juice to the coil with the key on. As I'm by myself today, I haven't been able to crank it over and check for spark anywhere else.

My guess is also ignition.

First check all wiring between battery positive post and ignition switch and then to coil. Connections solid, tight, wire in good condition? If so go to step 2 below.

Remove distributor cap, remove the center wire from cap and put the end of it ~ 1/2" from ground (like bolt head in engine), turn on ignition switch, open and close the points. Do you get a spark that "snaps" between wire and ground? Now keep points apart and short between arms with screwdriver. Is the spark the same or makes louder sound?

If both give weak spark that does not jump a 1/2" gap then check the condenser. Is the outside case grounded? Is the ground solid? Are connections tight? If that is okay then check the coil. Are all wires tight? If that all looks okay then check voltage at the coil. Is it 6.6 volts or more? If so consider changing the condenser first and coil second.

All of this can be done by one person.

Let us know what you find.

If none of the above works, then check your electrolock. It could be grounding out and that would cause the engine to die like the ignition was being turned off.

I had a similar problem with my 1930 tourer, it turned out to be the die cast choke mushroom which was starting to break up where the fork holds it in position and it was just holding it in place until it would get sucked up by the vaccum of the engine and choke the engine completely as if the ignition was turned off and then it would fall back in to place until there was enough vaccum to suck it back up again. I checked all of the ignition and rebuilt the fuel pump before I diagnosed it. It would be worth a look.

So you don't get confused, chevy6 is talking about the pot metal choke cone inside of the carburetor.

This place is so great! Al w.

C.J.
Intermittent problems are the hardest to solve, but It is just a process of elimination. Start with what you think is most likely and proceed down the line until you find it. With intermittent stuff sometimes you have to check several times.
Good luck and let us know what you find.

Sorry guys, had to go out tonight. I will be checking out all options starting tomorrow night, and I will post all results as they happen. This forum is THE BEST! Thanks to everybody for the advice. You guys ROCK!

C.J.

OK. So the wiring all looks good. I have approx. 6.6 volts across the coil. Holding the coil wire a 1/2" from ground and snapping the points shut produces a crisp, blue, snappy spark. It doesn't appear to be as strong at the points but I'm not sure if I'm doing that procedure correctly. It seems to want to spark between the arm of the points and the rotor gear that separates the points. If thats what is supposed to be happening, the spark is significantly weaker at that point. Pardon my ignorance on the subject, it's been 23 years since I've played with a points ignition, and I was only 14 then!
Thanks again for all the advice so far.
C.J.

If a spark jumps between the moveable point arm and distributor cam the rubbing block on the points is gone. You will need to replace the points with a new set.

Thanks Chip. I will get new points tomorrow. Luckily, I work at a parts store so I won't have to go far to get them! I am going to replace the condenser as well while I'm at it. I searched my books today but couldn't seem to find a suitable replacement. Does anybody have a part number for a replacement condenser?

Use the condenser for a '54 Chevy. Most books still list them. Others go back to '34. Any of those will work well.

DR-70.

Thanks again guys. Hopefully I'll have more news tomorrow.

Hey Dog, this is the condenser that I found today at work. I questioned how well the "U" shaped connector would fit inside the electrolock end cap? I'm assuming as long as you've been at this that it's not a problem. And no, I;m not calling you old...just experienced!

Do not use the "U" shaped connector. Cut it off and solder on a #10 stud eyelet connector. Also, put shrink tubing on the base of the eyelet connector and the wire so that it will not make contact with the side of the elongated slot in the bottom of the metal terminal cup.

Try draining all the fuel and introducing new. If the car sat for months in an old tank watch out. Look at the color of the fuel and take a smell. If its at all orange, or smells like old gas, you might have found the problem.

It seems I'm coming up with as many questions as answers with this deal. So,next question: What is a suitable insulator to put between the points and the distributor housing? It appears the lasy owner used a piece of plastic. Any suggestions?

Any insulating material, like plastic, will work. The original insulator was a rectangle shaped heavy paper. I believe that the Filling Station sells the insulator if you don't want to make one.

The two heavy paper insulators used at that location are also illustrated in the 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book. If you don't have a 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book you can get one from the Filling Station as well.

Thanks Dog. One more question, then hopefully I'll be done bothering you guys for a bit.
When tightening the nut on the end of the electrolock,through the distributor, is there a trick to keep the stud from spinning? Or is it not supposed to be spinning?
Thanks again.
C.J.

If you put pressure on the shaft by pushing down on the spring/contact for the points it will retard the spinning. Also make sure that the threads on the stud are clean without burrs.

Yes, the terminal stud will spin due to the design of the terminal stud connection in the end of the electrolock.