VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 brakes

Is it possible to modernize the brakes on my 1930 coach and keeping the original drivetrain and wheels? Some sort of kit or anything like that?

If in good condition and correctly adjusted, 1931 Chevrolet mechanical brakes are as good as any hydraulic conversion you could make using the original drive line.

The same is true for the 1930 mechanical brake system as well.

That being said,is there anyone in the great state of New Jersey that has even a clue as to how to adjust the 1931 mechanical brakes ?? I paid one shop nearly $500 to do it for me---they were no better than before,shop owner stated that is as good as they get!! Paid another shop much more to redo them---not much better than before----I still need to stand on that ol brake pedal if I need to stop in a hurry at 35-40 mph(a hurry means 50 ft)

1. Save $500. and spend a few bucks and purchase a reproduction Chevrolet manual. It tells you step-by-step instructions how to center and adjust your brake set-up. It is really simple once you do it.
2. Mechanical brakes, no matter how good they are will not stop your car within 50' when going 35-40 mph. They just aren't that good.
3. My rule of thumb for my '31 Chev is to think about stopping(and apply your brakes) long before you have to actually stop.
You need at least twice the distance that you are used to when using your modern power brake car.
4. Panic stops with a '31 Chev require a prayer and 2 feet and all the pressure you can muster on the brake pedal.
4 Follow these simple thoughts and take your time and enjoy your drive.

Mine are just the opposite. If I press on the brakes too hard they about lock up. Have to very careful so the rider doesn't hit the dash. Thought they would wear in a little and be less grabby but not so far yet. About 300 miles on new brakes. Will have to try and adjust them again.

Guys,
The key to good brakes, no matter what kind, is to use the correct lining. Thin steel drums require, soft linings to work well. Hard lining requires excessive pressure that deforms the drums more. If you have thick cast iron drums then harder linings are okay.

Soft linings are available. The Filling Station relines the shoes. All Frictions in Connecticut Click here sells soft linings. There are many others for example Soft lining Get the soft linings, adjust the brakes by the book and the car will stop as well as the tires permit.

Once you have the correct type of soft friction linings and before adjusting the brakes, you must centralize the brakes first. As suggested above, get a shop manual and then you can do the brake adjustments yourself. It is not that difficult to do. At $500 (or more) for a brake adjustment you were definitely overcharged for the procedure.

One last thought. In our case the brakes were fading very quickly. We had one of our garage nights at a local friction supply in Portland. The fellow there said one of the biggest mistakes people make with these type brakes is to feather them like your modern power brakes. These should be applied like the old style and pumped. In other words apply them fairly hard, and then let them off ALL the way to cool for a few seconds and then apply them again. He said if you do not use them like this they will quickly glaze over, squeel, and not work very well. If they glaze over he said to use sand paper and remove some of the lining (He actually said use a belt sander). They can match up any friction material to the type of use your car is going to get. We use the woven material.

i grew up being taught that when you slam on mechanical brakes you WILL turn sideways in the road. i guess that is what stops you quickly. with the proper adjusting tool and manual, which nobody in my little town had, do they stop straight? what a wonderful idea!!

I bet your little town was a good place to "Be from!" yes if adjusted right and adjusted often, they will stop in a straight line.

Mechanical brakes are a constant frequent topic around here. No one has ever suggested switching to modern brakes. That sounds like a lot of work to me.

I relined my '29 with the woven material, centralized and have readjusted twice, the last time with the brake adjusting tool. I now have an inch or two off the floor when full depression on the pedal is reached.

I'm going back in as soon as I get some other work done and try to tighten up the back brakes some. Everything is worn and I think a lot of the pedal travel is caused by the tightening up of the travel in the rods and connectors.

We'll see.

Thanks for the advice and input, I guess I will have to just take them apart check the condition and try adjusting them. I just kept getting told by other people not from here that they won't ever work real good. I did meet a local f--d guy today that pretty much agrees with what I am hearing here. I am gonna wait till it gets a little colder before I start tearing into it I want to cruise it arround a little more before the weather goes away

Since you are having a hard time stopping your car because of the possiblity of having the wrong linings or whatever, it is not recommended that you go cruising if you are unable to stop quickly. I suggest that you wait until you get your brakes working correctly before you do any type of driving.

It stops as long as i plan enough room. I only take it on the side streets and stay clear of traffic. As long as i don't get behind someone that slams on there brakes or someone that pulls out right in front of me I am ok with it In the neighborhood. I don't just take it out for a night on the town or anything like that. I appreciate the concern though.

Mechanical brakes will stop in a straight line and can lock the wheels up if properly lined, adjusted and in good mechanical condition. Keep in mind that the stopping distance is also determined by resistance of the tire to the road-and thats what requires some extra room as the tires are very narrow compared to modern vehicles.

As a VCCA member you might want to contact your local region director. I've found that members with the same types of vehicles are a great source of information and knowledge. Chances are they have probably faced the same problems and would be happy to assist.

Hi JDog,you refer to soft linings---just to be sure that i am gettin it right,those would be the woven type,correct?? Thanks again dog,Jay

Hi Jay,

I had poor brakes on my 28 for years, just recently changed over to the woven material, made from the A word that we cant mention, perfect, stops better than ever.

Make sure they are rivoted and not bonded, otherwise your wasting your time

Cheers

Ray

Hi Ray, thanks for shootin me some info---those are the linings that i am running with now---at least i think they are made of the big "A"---I am thinking that my problem lyes in proper "tuning" of the brake adjustments and straightnin out the old parts that people have been bendin and prying on for 80 years ---Thanks again,Jay