VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Water Pump Baffle Plate

Hi My 27 tourer is running very very hot , im just going through a list of faults and have read they should be a baffle plate behind the water pump . Ive ordered one , But not sure how to fit it , anyone know about this ?
Thanks Robbie .

Hi Robbie,

You have to press off the pulley and slide out the shaft and the impeller.

The baffle plate fits into a recess in the back of the pump housing, size for size, and the is a little tag that you bend or tap to locate in the small hole in the housing, which I think is a bypass.

Assemble the same way you pulled it apart, and the baffle is held in place by the edge of the facing on the block that the pump bolts too.

Remember gasket cement on your new water pump gasket.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers

Ray

Thanks , Ive just come in from stripping the water pump , i cleaned off all the rust and noticed a recess . I thought this may be where the baffle fits . Then reading your reply confirms it . My impeller blades are have worn away with it thrusting into the body . So a new one will have to be ordered . Ill just have to sit and wait for a delivery from the U.S.A. not sure how long it wil take , but as soon as it all comes ill report back . By the way great blog .
Thanks Ray

Sounds like a good application for a complete overhaul kit.

cheers

Ray

I had troubles with my truck running hot. I discovered that if my timing is off it will run hot.

I also found that slowing the water return to the radiator help cool down the engine - I did this by placing a small restriction in the water return line (I I think this compensates not running a thermostat that would have restricted some flow)

As for the water pump - Take extreme care when pressing in/out the front bushing. I discovered (the hard way) that the pump casting may not handle the pressure and will crack. I now run a steel rod through the back side of the pump, through the pump onto the bushing that I want to press out

There's a bloke in Aus. who does reconditioned water pumps on a trade in your old one basis. Every piece bar the housing is brand new and I swear by them.
Details are
PRP Page Reproduction Parts
email djpage@primus.com.au
Chris

Hi Chris,

Is that similar to Ray Hatchers mod, which I have been very happy with for the last 2 years.

No more leaks, no more greasing, no more gland packing, and no more grease in the cooling system.

Cheers

Ray

Ray
Derek's are dead original. Ray's are ok if want a modified car or a hot rod
Chris

Thats telling me.

Ray

Hi just got the baffle plate . Iv e built up the impeller with plastic metal . Just a recap , the impeller blades face the baffle plate ? if so, is there a spacer to prevent the impeller touching the the baffle plate ? Robbie

Unfortunately I don't expect the "plastic metal" to last very long on the impeller. Pump cavitation, heat and stress will break it off. Might be a temporary fix but replacement impeller is best long term solution. At least two people make replacement impellers.

Yes there should be a micorda or similar thrust washer between impeller and water pump body. Brass washer could also be substituted.

Hi Robbie.

Why did you not purchase a new impeller, or better still the water pump kit from the FS, that has all the parts including the 2 washers?

Your call on the plastic metal, a bit risky for me.

The impeller blades face the baffle plate, smooth side faces into the engine.

Cheers

Ray

Now Now Chris & Ray, stop that you 2 boys!!

The plastic metal is belzona , heavy industrial gear we use in the steel works . It should do the job for a while . I was working away when i ordered the parts , so didn't have the pump with me , it was only when i came home and my friend had stripped it that i saw the damage to the impeller . I will be ordering a new one , but it takes a while to get a delivery and i always get hit by customs . Robbie

You could always mill one out of brass like I did for my '28 w/pump,an never have any more corrosion problems,as will happen with cast iron.

Iv e just got it back , i decided to weld it up . worked a treat . I turned a brass spacer for it . Iv e also ordered the kit. While im on can anyone tell me what size copper pipe to use for my carb ? And what thread is it on the carb inlet ? I bought one with the banjo and strainer as mine only had a rubber fuel line pushed on . Dose the copper need flaring or is it an olive ? Thanks Robbie

Does anyone have a picture of the baffle in place? i have a waterpump rebuild in store

I think you will be much happier with the welded repair versus the plastic metal.

The original gas line was brass but replace by steel beginning in 1929 or 1930. Copper was later replacement. Copper was used as it was easier to stock, supply and bend into shape. I use 5/16" steel lines on my '28 Chevys. The fitting on the carburetor end is a flare. The rest of the fittings are what we call compression fittings. They have a nut and barrel shaped (olive?) ferrule that gets compressed onto the tubing.

Picture of a baffleplate in a 28 pump
Made in 2 mm brass



The screw you can see are not orginal. Just to prevent the brassplate rotate or falling out

Brass baffle plate.

Very Sexy.

Cheers

Ray

Sexy...hmmmm...ok!

Most of the orginale steel baffle plate looks like this after 80+ year in the engine.I think brass is a better choice.

Thanks guys. the brass is indeed very sexy. i am jealous!