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My 28 National is growling. Let me describe. It drives just fine with no noise until I let off the gas and then whether in gear or not, I get a growling sound from some place in the drivetrain. If I am in gear and gently apply power, the growling goes away. I plan on cracking open the u-joint housing and taking a look, but would love some advice so that I can avoid the joy of getting greasy twice. I did check the transmission and diff levels and they are fine. I did add a cup or so of 600W to the u-joint because the driveshaft o-ring seal is leaking a bit.
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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Hi Shawn,
My first comment would have been that your uni joint is a bit dry, which shows itself when you back off, and will dissapear when the lubricant is topped up. As you believe your uni is well lubricated, I would be looking at the condition of the joint itself. Others may have other suggestions.
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
Ray
Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great" I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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2 years ago, when I did the clutch, the u-joint looked good. The car has maybe 60 miles on it since then. It was stored off site last winter and as I said the u-joint is leaking to the outside via the slip joint to the driveshaft tube. Perhaps it is dryer than I think. I just order a gasket kit from Gary Wallace and will take it all apart and see what's up.
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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It might also be the tailshaft bush being badly worn, a common problem. Another thing (which I had years ago) is the settings of your rear springs, if one spring has sagged more than the other it will cause your uni to rattle on back off as it drags the torque tube to one side putting pressure on the uni. The way to check this is very easy, bounce the back of car up and down a couple of times and have a look at the angle of your rear shackle plates if one is at more of an angle that the other, this will be your problem and you'll have to get your rear springs reset. When these cars were made they experienced a similar problem when as power was supplied the engine torgue dragged the torque tube to on side, they fixed the problem by having having different height rear spring saddles. Chris
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Thanks for the guidance, but can you please explain resetting the springs.
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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A noise that goes away under acceleration is usually a pinion bearing. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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i would say the ring gear is loose on the carrier in the rear end . have found this a common thing on the early chevys . easy to check . hope this helps
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Wow, so many problems to choose from. I do appreciate all the ideas. Ray, if it is the pinion bearing, is a 307 bearing the right one?
Last edited by shawng; 08/19/11 07:35 PM.
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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I am on the road now and don't have my reference materials with me. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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The pinion bearings have numbers as follows: Front:double row angular contact type 5305 Rear:maximum capacity ball bearing 1307(same as rear axle bearing).Modern p/no. NTN BL307 Ring gear carrier bearings:single row angular contact bearing original p/no. 1208, modern p/no. 7208. 
CJP'S 29
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Thanks. As much as i love dealing with our various vendors, we have a superb bearing shop in town. Nice to not have to pay shipping once in a while.
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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You may wish to check my posting #214372,as I put the bearing dimensions down for another poster. 
CJP'S 29
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It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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CJP's a walking parts list for old Chevrolets, doesn't even need a book.
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Resetting the springs. OK if you put a straight edge form the top of the front and back eyes and measure the distance from the straight edge to top of the leaf that will give you the 'set' measurements. As the spring get old they sag and the distance between the eyes gets bigger and the 'set' measurement gets smaller, and the angle of the rear spring shackle plates gets shallower. Resetting them brings back to the brand new configuration. Hope this makes sense. Chris
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Makes mores sense now, thanks
It's not how fast you can go, but how good you look at 20 MPH.
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