Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#216349 08/14/11 05:13 PM
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jgeorge Offline OP
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A while back there was a discussion on pulling the rear hub. Someone suggested building a cage type puller. I hope attached is a link to a picture of one I built, which works fine using a 10-ton porta power hydraulic ram. My big conventional puller which also should be a photo link would not work. Nor would driving with the nut loose (although I didn't try any real high speed turns). Also pictured is a pin with a spring attached that goes through the brake shoes. It appears to be crooked, or on a slant. Is this normal? If not, what is the repair?

Regards,
Joe


http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/joe15747/puller1404.jpg

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/joe15747/brake-pin1399.jpg

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/joe15747/puller.jpg


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Hi jgeorge,

I need some help with your pictures. The first picture I can see where the pressure is applied, but how is the device connected to the hub?

The second picture I need help also.

The big puller has it's uses, but I don't think this is one of them.

If you haven't given the loose nut tactic a true try, do so, it works.



Agrin devil


RAY


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Ray , There is 6 holes drilled in the upper round plate which would pass onto the wheel studs in the hub , and then be secured with wheel nuts.

The second question is in regards to the anchor pin for the brake return spring. It is pulled at an angle from the tension of the brake return spring. It look to me as if the pin has deformed in the backing plate where it attaches.


JACK
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Hi Joe,

Wow, what a puller!! I used one like the latter and it worked great on my 32 rear brake drums. As for the pin, it just locates the brake shoes ton the backing plate and is a bit loose. When removing the brake shoes, it will come out of the backing plate if you work it around a bit. When dis-assembling your shoes, just carefully pry part the
Ring on the back of the shoe to remove the pin before you send the shoes off for rebuilding; careful not to break it if possible. The round pins that are used with the links to attach them to the shoes are hard to come by as are the clips that hold them on. I just finished my brake overhaul so if I can help in any way, let me know.

Mac

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OK, now I understand the puller with 6 holes.

Still at a loss on the second picture. This area is rot revealed until the hub is removed.


Agrin devil


RAY


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
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Ray,
Joe was asking if the upper pin in the photo with the spring attached is supposed to be at the angle it is , or if it is supposed to be perpendicular to the backing plate, and if there is a fix for it.


JACK
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Those pins on my '30 all seem to be at an angle, worn some. It must not be too critical that they be at a right angle, considering how Chevrolet just put them through a simple hole. It bothered me at first, too. I thought they should have had threads, and a nut, to tighten them straight. But my springs never seem to come loose (slip over the groove), even at the angle, and my brakes work really fine.

Last edited by 46 Panel; 08/15/11 08:54 AM.

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Those pins need to move with the brake shoes. The angle depends on the amount of lining on the shoe and adjustment of the brake activating cam. If they can't move then the brake shoes will not either. If you take out the pin and examine it closely you will find the outer part is actually rounded so it can rotate.


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jgeorge Offline OP
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Thanks for all the information on the brake shoe pin. I guess I will leave well enough alone for now.

Regards,

Joe

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I got it, I got it, now I know what pin is the object of the discussion.


Agrin devil


RAY


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http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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I figure that pin should have been pressed into the backing plate, I would be tempted to spot weld it on the back side of the backing plate in an upright position. I have that problem from time to time with the pressed in pins on the idle pully support of a couple of riding mowers I "fixed-up" and sold usually for less than I bought them for. My cash flow is going the wrong way, one of Oboma's financial advisors told me I need to buy a lot more mowers!


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People with only modern brake experience have a hard time understanding why a solid pin should move. Its purpose is essentially the same as the spring, stud and cup used to hold modern brake shoes in position.


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Your's is a variation of a cage puller. I built one years ago and I found that it was the only puller that did the job where other pullers failed.


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