VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood wood kit assembly

Hi guys & gals, I have a 29 wood kit for a two door sedan. I;ve got the bottom rails together and I'm not sure if the
A or B pillar is next. What are some of the dos and don'ts
should I be aware of. I'm using stainless steel screws and
trying to use the right size screws but most of my wood was
gone when I got this car. Any guidance would be greatly
welcome thanks richard P.S. how much friction tape or paint do I order from the Filling Station.

Have you varnished your wood yet? That probably should be your next step, and do the pieces you already put together. You might have to disassemble those pieces to get a good job on them. Probably at least two coats. Thats what I was told when I got my kit. The other thing I was told was to not varnish the belt rail where it glues together and the top slats where they glue together. All of the other pieces are not glued. Start at the cowl, get a top center line from front to back and a bottom center line jigged up as a reference point. Don't forget to check often for squareness from one corner to the other using the 3,4,5, method. Also use your sheet metal as a guide and reference, after all it has to fit your wood after it is installed. I have a '29 coupe but have not actually installed the wood yet. I have watched one of the fellows in our region wood work on a couple of open cars. Don't get discouraged with it, you will be very proud of it when done. The manufacturer of my kit told me to not touch the doors and use them to get the body contour correct, then as a last step do the doors.

Hey beachbum, Thanks a million. thats just what I was needing.
I knew there was a few steps I couldn't remember. My Fisher body book mentions friction paste or tape to put on the metal
bracets where the wood and metal mite rub. Do you know of this stuff. The Filling station sells the spacers that go between the wood rails and frame, but I found some cloth tape
between the bracets (that hold the dash up) and the A pillars.
I;d like to find this stuff before I need it.Thanks again richard

It is friction tape. The closest match I have seen is the old style electrical tape made out of cloth. There may be something closer but I do not know. It essentially was a material to keep the pieces from squeeking when they move past one another. The body is twisting and shifting all of the time. If you do not have something in there it will drive you nuts. The other material you are talking about is the belting type stuff between the mail sills and the frame, it is much heavier and wider.

Originally the wood bodies were not varnished, usually just a coat of dull black sealer before the parts were assembled. I've dissambled several of the old GM bodies and never found any traces of glue, even in the finger joints. If there was glue of any kind it was water based and very thin. The screwed connections were not glued either. Basically a wooden carriage, the bodies were designed to have a little "give" due to road stresses, climate and abuse. The sheet-metal skins created a diaphram effect and made these cars light but very strong.

Hey beachbum, Any suggestions to what I should use as friction
tape? I'm thinking of useing Gaft tape (with a piece on both
sides) facing oppossite sides. Does this sound a little nutty.
It is very strong and seems to hold up under all kinds of condistions. Thanks for your help. Richard

Hey Greencorn, When you reassembled those GM bodies what did
you guys use in the places where there was friction tape. I'm
varnishing my wood parts and I need to know what to use, when I
start bolting and screwing on the metal brackets. Thanks for
your info. Richard

I used friction tape on the ones I've done.....Joe

Hi Joe, Thanks for your input and did you run into any areas
where you had to sand down or pull out the wood chisels? I can
only imagine some pieces being harder to assemble than others. Do you have any tips on replaceing the wood in the doors? Thanks Richard

You can still buy friction tape.

3M 1755 3/4"x60' Tape, Friction, Black
Overwrap tape provides abrasion protection.
Protect wires and cables from sharp edges.
Handles temperatures from -40°F to 176°F.
Woven cotton fabric coated on both sides with electrical-grade, solvent-free rubber adhesive.



from Grainger Industrial Suppl... and several others.

Hi Mr.Mack, Thanks for the info on the tape. I'll be getting some this week to start on the "A" pillars and the brackets to
the dash. As a fellow TEXASAN from the Rio grand Valley I like
your Texas state/flag on your posting area (what ever they call
it) Thanks again Richard

You can also use 30 # roofing felt between metal and wood or between two pieces of wood where they might rub or move.

Hi Chipper, I would have never quessed to use roofing felt, but
what a great tip and cheap to boot. thanks man, I've got worlds of that stuff. Very cool man. Richard

Hey Chipper, Question. Today I did the Roof Insert on my 31 Four Door. This Posting came to mind. If available wouldn't the excess Roof Material do well for the joining of Metal and Wood? Al W.

I would think that roofing felt would be better as it is essentially impervious to moisture. One side of the roofing material is water proof but the bottom side is not. It could work in places where moisture was not an issue. A material similar to the top material was used to cover the inside door latch links and provide a slip surface. It was also used to make tool bags and pieces for seat attachment and spring straps.