VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Adjusting Valves

It's been about 40 years since I adjusted valves. I was told a Flint my '34 181 valves need to be adjusted. After thinking about it driving home, it occurred to me my father in law probably never adjusted them after rebuilding the engine as he only ran it for a couple of minutes. Then it sat for 20 years. It seems to run fine now but is noisy.

When I adjusted valves years ago, I recall the engine was off and was rotated by hand. I notice the '34 manual discusses adjusting them while the hot engine is running (slowly). So I am curious how those of you with experience adjust the valves - running or not running?

If running, is there a proper sequence? I would appreciate any instructions, suggestions, cautions etc. Also, am I correct the intakes are set at .006 and the exhaust set at .013? I know enough not to over-tighten them so are these clearances what is usually used or should they be more?

Thanks for any replies!

I adjust my valves on our 31 with the engine warm and shut off. I hand crank the engine and start adjusting the front (radiator end) and work my way to the rear. The book says to adjust them to .006 intake and .008 exhaust clearance. I adjust mine to .008 and .010. Haven't burnt a valve yet. I'm not saying this is best or correct but it works for me.

I have adjusted both ways. With engine running,I could never get a good feel and it can be messy. I prefer to run the engine untill hot,shut down,then set valves. If the valves are set on the tight side,you get more low end torque. On the loose side,you get better high end torque. After setting the valves hot,you can let the engine cool completly and just check the settings and record them. This will give you a good cold setting. I like mine at intake .008 exhaust .012.

Chevy 1937, Really, tightie = low torque, and loosie = high torque, how do you measure the torque at low RPM and at high RPM? I must of missed that one while learning about these old Chevies......., the valve lash settings look reasonable, is this loosie or tightie? , thanks!
Oh, do you turn the engine with the fan belt or bump the starter? With this settings do the tappets chatter a bit? I worry that the lash is a bit tight if the tappets don't chatter just a bit whilst the engine is cold and then get silent when the engine gets fully warmed up. Don't forget to turn un your hearing aids when checking this out.
My uncle adjusts the tappets so that he can hear the tappets tapping, and since he offten forgets to turn up his hearing aids, his tappets are usually way too loosie!

By the way, I adjust the valves with the engine warmed up , after a 20 minute drive, idleing real slow and start from the front do the intake for all four or six then work back to the front on the exhaust valves. If i have to do a tappett adjustment after an engine overhaul,replaceing a head, rocker shaft etc. I adjust the valves a couple of thousandths loose to get it running. On the four I turn the engine with the hand crank, if the plugs are in, and the six with the fan belt with the spatk plugs out, before I install the plugs and distributor etc. I kinda like to do my own thing.

Did a lot of that study on a dyno back in my racing days. Dont mean to much on these old cars though. The racing motor was a 350 that dynoed at 580 H.P. back in the 70s with a single carb.

The most accurate way is what the shop manual describes - with the engine running. Pass the feeler gauge betweeen the valve stem and rocker arm. When too tight is will be difficult to move it. Use a stubby screw driver and a 5/8" box wrench and practice. I always begin with the intake valves.
Otherwise set them with the engine off and then go back through them with the engine running to catch any that are too tight or too loose.

Dont need no practice. Been doing it for 60 years. I got the wrench and screwdriver tool in one. It's an old tool,just put a 5/8 socket on and the screwdriver part goes down through the center. Only have to hold one tool.

Here's a link to Ebay for one of valve adjusting tools (there are several). This makes adjusting the lash while the engine is running a much easier operation. One hand holds the tool (to adjust and lock the nut) and the other the feeler gauge.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/vint...torsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I've found loosening the lock nuts before I start the engine to do the adjustments helps, but not so loose the adjuster can move. Don