VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 '34 Water Pump Questions

I just noticed the water pump shaft on my '34 Standard's 180 has about 3/16" end play. So I'm thinking it needs a rebuild. I have ordered a rebuilt unit from The Filling station. I am familiar with changing water pumps but not in an old Chevy 6. It looks fairly simple: belt off, fan off, 4 bolts off, tap off the pump, then reverse procedure to install the new one.

My manual mentions the packing nut adjustment but does not show or explain it. Will this already be done on the rebuild unit or will I need to further adjust it? Also, does the packing nut adjustment have effect on end play or do I just have worn bushings? I tried to tighten it but it seems like it is as tight as it will go.

Any hints, suggestions, directions, etc. regarding removal and replacing the pump will be appreciated. Remember the 180 has the pump in the head rather than the block.

I think you have a handle on the replacement of your water pump.Pretty easy process. The pump should come with the packing nut snugged up, but you may need to tighten It slightly to prevent water leakage around the shaft and any air intake. The grease cup should be full and will need to be turned to force grease around the shaft. Lubriplate grease works best on this application.
Richard

Should there be any end play in the water pump shaft? Mine has a good 3/16" which seems to be a lot. Otherwise it works perfectly.

The end play is controlled by how far the pulley is pressed on. The pump should be removed and the thrust washer inspected. If bad it should be replaced and is OK the pulley pressed on farther.....see shop manual.

There should be no end play in the water pump shaft.

Excessive end play is caused by a worn or missing thrust washer
between the impeller and the housing. In my experience the thrust washer is made of a fibrous material; when I rebuilt
the pump on my '35 Std I had a machinist friend make me one to
the same dimensions out of bronze. That was about 18 years ago
and it's still OK. There is no specified tightness to the packing nut that I know of, I just tighten mine till it's snug,
and if it leaks I tighten a little more till the leak stops. The
packing is just graphing coated string, and I have heard of guys
using plumbers faucet packing if nothing else was available.
Phil Lipton

Thanks Guys for the replies. Chevnut, I have read the manual but it doesn't explain the water pump very well and has no illustrations. Everyone's info. will be helpful when I take the old one off and install the rebuilt one. Thanks again.

Just checked my 1934 shop manual and see what you mean.

I would appreciate answers to a couple of questions! I got the correct rebuilt water pump from the Filling Station (fast) so I pulled the old one off today. What a PITA removing a couple of the fan bolts. Is there a better tool than a box wrench to get them? There is not enough room for a socket wrench. Also, I'm trying to remember if any sealant is used in addition to the new gasket or should I be OK with it alone?

By the way, I noticed that the Filling Station did not have the correct gasket in their catalog for my 181 so when I called and asked the rep. about it, he put Steve, the owner on the line. Steve told me he would check in to it as their catalog showed one gasket fitting all '34's. Within a couple of hours he called back, told my wife (I had left) they would ship a correct one to me from one of their suppliers at no cost. It sure is nice to still get quick and excellent service like I have experienced numerous times from them.

Best is ratcheting box end but most don't have them. Next is box end and then open end wrench. The radiator is a real knuckle buster so beware and careful. I use Permatex No. 2 on water pumps. Don't need it but it makes me feel better.

Chipper, it makes me feel better that using a sealant makes you feel better. We think alike. I know it would most likely not leak but putting some sealant on - you guessed it - makes me feel better. On the wrench, I will just have to be patient and go slow. Thanks!

I'm curious what size (not length) V belt should be used on my '34. It has a "B" size belt which is very hard to remove. I'm wondering if it should be an "A" size belt which is smaller and should be easier to work off the pulleys.

The belt should be a 5/8" wide not 1/2" that is standard on more modern cars. It takes much less tension on the wider belts which prolongs the life of the front water pump bushing.

Chipper,

Thanks for the reply. I guessed the larger belt would be the correct size since the pulleys were wider but wasn't sure. I appreciate you explaining why the belt should be larger. I'm going to get a new belt 1" longer than the one I have as it is just too short to work on and off.